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p0021 p0011 please help.

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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 01:50 PM
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Default p0021 p0011 please help.

I know these are camshaft position codes. I'm getting low oil pressure. I've moved up from 5w30 to 5w40 and it has had no affect on my low oil pressure, from what I've read I feel my camshaft position sensors have gone bad and i'm going to replace them before I crack this motor open. Can anyone tell me where they are ON A VQ35HR NOT A DE MOTOR. I've been searching all day and can't find anything for an HR. Thank you for any help. If you could post a picture of where they are that would be even better.
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 02:25 PM
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Just found a form on another site for the G35's (the g35's with the vq35hr) saying it might be a blown gasket inside the timing cover held on by 2 philips head screws. Anyone fimilar with this?
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
Just found a form on another site for the G35's (the g35's with the vq35hr) saying it might be a blown gasket inside the timing cover held on by 2 philips head screws. Anyone fimilar with this?
Yeah, there is a rear timing cover that has oil passages in it. They are hard plastic and will sometimes go out and cause low oil pressure. That usually leads to timing chain noise and you'll get codes for intake valve timing control solenoid. I've never seen that cause cam position sensor codes though. You have to take your front timing cover off, primary and secondary chains, slack guides and tensioners to get to your rear cover. Theres really no repair for it, you have to replace your rear cover if thats the issue. It's kind of common on higher mileage VQ motors (I tend to see them on Muranos and Maximas a lot) I would replace your came sensors first. (Located behind each cylinder head close to the firewall)
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmytherustler
Yeah, there is a rear timing cover that has oil passages in it. They are hard plastic and will sometimes go out and cause low oil pressure. That usually leads to timing chain noise and you'll get codes for intake valve timing control solenoid. I've never seen that cause cam position sensor codes though. You have to take your front timing cover off, primary and secondary chains, slack guides and tensioners to get to your rear cover. Theres really no repair for it, you have to replace your rear cover if thats the issue. It's kind of common on higher mileage VQ motors (I tend to see them on Muranos and Maximas a lot) I would replace your came sensors first. (Located behind each cylinder head close to the firewall)
So i should change those sensors before i go into the timing cover? My car is far from high milage, I haven't even broke 60k miles yet. I'll keep this form updated as i try new things to get rid of these codes. Thank you for the your input, i appreciate it.
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 09:50 AM
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here's a link to where i found out about those gaskets.
http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-seda...ous-about.html
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 10:54 AM
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Can someone just post a picture of them on the vq35hr. i have spent another day searching for them on my car and still have had no luck. they are not in the same spot as the de.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
Can someone just post a picture of them on the vq35hr. i have spent another day searching for them on my car and still have had no luck. they are not in the same spot as the de.
I'll see if I can post a picture of them from the Electronic Nissan service manual.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
I know these are camshaft position codes. I'm getting low oil pressure. I've moved up from 5w30 to 5w40 and it has had no affect on my low oil pressure, from what I've read I feel my camshaft position sensors have gone bad and i'm going to replace them before I crack this motor open. Can anyone tell me where they are ON A VQ35HR NOT A DE MOTOR. I've been searching all day and can't find anything for an HR. Thank you for any help. If you could post a picture of where they are that would be even better.
Ok buddy, p0011 and p0021 are, in fact intake valve timing control solenoid codes. With one being bank 1 and the other being bank 2. These are almost always a direct result of low oil pressure.. I hate to break it to you, but it's not related to cam position sensors.





If your cam sensors were bad, you'd have an extended crank and your car would possibly die on you while driving. Hope this helps!

Last edited by Jimmytherustler; Jun 9, 2015 at 06:29 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmytherustler
Ok buddy, p0011 and p0021 are, in fact intake valve timing control solenoid codes. With one being bank 1 and the other being bank 2. These are almost always a direct result of low oil pressure.. I hate to break it to you, but it's not related to cam position sensors.





If your cam sensors were bad, you'd have an extended crank and your car would possibly die on you while driving. Hope this helps!
yeah, i found that out yesterday. I'm so frustrated I was being a bit snappy on here. I'm sorry. I'm going to pull the VVT solenoids and test them in both banks. would those solenoids failing cause the low oil pressure, or do they go bad because of low oil pressure. and i'd hate to say it, but where are those solenoids? Also, to add to all the symptoms of my car, cold start, the oil pressure jumps almost to 120psi, then quickly drops to 60psi, stays there until the car gets hot, then drops to 30psi and slowly falls. as soon as i start to drive the car, it idles rough and misses, to the point where the whole car shakes. when coming up to a stoplight or anything while driving as soon as i push in the clutch and shift to neutral, the oil pressure drops to 0. even under WOT the oil pressure wont hit 60psi when the car is hot and it has zero power. like i said before, fresh 5w40 oil and oil filter and my oil level is perfect. as for upgrades, i have a fujita intake, test pipes, and HKS hi powered exhaust. could these upgrades cause this issue?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
yeah, i found that out yesterday. I'm so frustrated I was being a bit snappy on here. I'm sorry. I'm going to pull the VVT solenoids and test them in both banks. would those solenoids failing cause the low oil pressure, or do they go bad because of low oil pressure. and i'd hate to say it, but where are those solenoids? Also, to add to all the symptoms of my car, cold start, the oil pressure jumps almost to 120psi, then quickly drops to 60psi, stays there until the car gets hot, then drops to 30psi and slowly falls. as soon as i start to drive the car, it idles rough and misses, to the point where the whole car shakes. when coming up to a stoplight or anything while driving as soon as i push in the clutch and shift to neutral, the oil pressure drops to 0. even under WOT the oil pressure wont hit 60psi when the car is hot and it has zero power. like i said before, fresh 5w40 oil and oil filter and my oil level is perfect. as for upgrades, i have a fujita intake, test pipes, and HKS hi powered exhaust. could these upgrades cause this issue?
The VVT solenoids failing will not cause the low oil pressure. The low oil pressure also doesn't cause them to go bad. All they are doing is controlling the oil pressure getting to the cam advance/retard control(not sure what it is called). If you don't have enough oil pressure the cam advance/retard control cannot do its job even if all the parts are in working order. It requires the oil pressure because it is using the oil as hydraulic fluid.

If you don't have an external oil leak or extremely low oil the internal gaskets are probably whats causing your problem. Your mods would not have caused the internal gaskets to fail.

Also if you have 0 oil pressure at idle stop driving the car!!! If the oil pressure light hasn't come on you are probably alright but low oil pressure will kill any engine.



Last edited by rancor; Jun 10, 2015 at 12:06 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
yeah, i found that out yesterday. I'm so frustrated I was being a bit snappy on here. I'm sorry. I'm going to pull the VVT solenoids and test them in both banks. would those solenoids failing cause the low oil pressure, or do they go bad because of low oil pressure. and i'd hate to say it, but where are those solenoids? Also, to add to all the symptoms of my car, cold start, the oil pressure jumps almost to 120psi, then quickly drops to 60psi, stays there until the car gets hot, then drops to 30psi and slowly falls. as soon as i start to drive the car, it idles rough and misses, to the point where the whole car shakes. when coming up to a stoplight or anything while driving as soon as i push in the clutch and shift to neutral, the oil pressure drops to 0. even under WOT the oil pressure wont hit 60psi when the car is hot and it has zero power. like i said before, fresh 5w40 oil and oil filter and my oil level is perfect. as for upgrades, i have a fujita intake, test pipes, and HKS hi powered exhaust. could these upgrades cause this issue?

Rancor is right, bad solenoids would not cause low oil pressure. Neither would those mods. The solenoids almost never go out on their own. If your oil pressure is that low, you really do need to stop driving it.


I circled their location. I'm starting to think your rear cover is leaking internally... you're gonna throw a rod or spin your main bearing dude.. honestly, most of the time I see what your car is doing, I end up having to replace the motor.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmytherustler
Rancor is right, bad solenoids would not cause low oil pressure. Neither would those mods. The solenoids almost never go out on their own. If your oil pressure is that low, you really do need to stop driving it.


I circled their location. I'm starting to think your rear cover is leaking internally... you're gonna throw a rod or spin your main bearing dude.. honestly, most of the time I see what your car is doing, I end up having to replace the motor.
very good info, thank you. and thank you Jimmytherustler. don't worry the car hasn't gotten more than 10 miles since it started happening, and that was all just testing going up and down my road as we were trying to fix the problem. So i guess i'm just gonna have to take it to the shop and check that gasket inside the timing cover since i don't have a garage or indoor shop to do the job myself. cheaper than buying a new engine i guess
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
very good info, thank you. and thank you Jimmytherustler. don't worry the car hasn't gotten more than 10 miles since it started happening, and that was all just testing going up and down my road as we were trying to fix the problem. So i guess i'm just gonna have to take it to the shop and check that gasket inside the timing cover since i don't have a garage or indoor shop to do the job myself. cheaper than buying a new engine i guess

Good luck dude, let us know what happens.
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 01:13 PM
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changed those gaskets and the problem continues. the gaskets were bad and leaking oil pressure, but not the main cause, apparently. could the leaking of oil pressure from those blown gaskets cause the oil pump to go bad? my oil cooler is dented, could that starve the motor of oil and oil pressure? need some ideas.oil pan is not dented. still reading 0psi at idle.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmytherustler
Rancor is right, bad solenoids would not cause low oil pressure. Neither would those mods. The solenoids almost never go out on their own. If your oil pressure is that low, you really do need to stop driving it.


I circled their location. I'm starting to think your rear cover is leaking internally... you're gonna throw a rod or spin your main bearing dude.. honestly, most of the time I see what your car is doing, I end up having to replace the motor.
What could be leaking in the rear cover? and could you post a picture of it or anything like that? I'm going to change my oil pump and see if that has any affect, but if the rear cover is leaking internally and i'll already have the entire front timing cover off might as well take a look inside the rear cover.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by illphildawg21
What could be leaking in the rear cover? and could you post a picture of it or anything like that? I'm going to change my oil pump and see if that has any affect, but if the rear cover is leaking internally and i'll already have the entire front timing cover off might as well take a look inside the rear cover.

Unfortunantely, I don't have any pictures of that. Once you take off the front cover, there are some brown/dark orange oil passages behind the timing chain on the rear cover. These are held on by philips head screws. Often times when they're leaking, the screws will be loose. You can check them by putting a philips head screwdriver on them and they turn without much effort at all (don't break them loose when doing this though). Other times, you can see the gasket actually protruding from behind the oil passage, although that's not as common.
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmytherustler
Unfortunantely, I don't have any pictures of that. Once you take off the front cover, there are some brown/dark orange oil passages behind the timing chain on the rear cover. These are held on by philips head screws. Often times when they're leaking, the screws will be loose. You can check them by putting a philips head screwdriver on them and they turn without much effort at all (don't break them loose when doing this though). Other times, you can see the gasket actually protruding from behind the oil passage, although that's not as common.
Those are the gaskets I just got replaced with the updated metal ones, it didn't solve my problem. my car is behaving very odd. My aftermarket wide band sensor is showing that my car is running super rich, my A/F ratios are over 15 at idle and jump to over 17 randomly, and I changed my oil to 5w50 so the car has 20-25 psi at idle but the pressure actually drops when you rev the car. Any suggestions or ideas?
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:50 AM
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This is what was causing my low oil pressure, before the vent in the drivers side valve cover was actually capped off rather than vented or dumped into the intake(previous owners doing, not me). Apparently once the car got hot the pressure in the valve cover was actually working against the oil pressure causing oil starvation or something of that nature. Right now all I have to deal with is an isolated p0021 code. I think I'm doing to change the bank 2 camshaft position sensor in hopes it's just bad. If not i'll pull the VVT solenoid and chack and see if it's working properly. What would you guys do? The car is not starting rough, and the oil pressure is on point, it breaks up after a WOT pull and will idle rough after that point, it's really weird. What would you guys do, start at the camshaft position sensor or the VVT solenoid?
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Old Aug 1, 2015 | 09:19 AM
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well, tried swapping all 4 camshaft position sensors 1 by 1 and it made no difference so the only place I have to go now is the VVT solenoid.
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