Solid/Urethane Motor/Trans Mounts
Its time for me to replace the worn factory mounts. I'm hoping someone out there has decent quality urethane mounts that they wanna sell.
Nathan
(404) 915-0043
Nathan
(404) 915-0043
Last edited by bishop_98; Jun 18, 2011 at 08:27 AM.
honsetly I would recommend just tossing back in OEM Motor Mounts. there are solid ones made but you will hate the ride if you daily drive your car.
Only spot really I would recommend running solid are the rear differential bushings and compression rod bushings on our cars.
here is transmission mount that I could find however its been discontinued.
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=4528
here is the solid engine mounts they sell but would def recommend keeping URETHANE
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=4328
Only spot really I would recommend running solid are the rear differential bushings and compression rod bushings on our cars.
here is transmission mount that I could find however its been discontinued.
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=4528
here is the solid engine mounts they sell but would def recommend keeping URETHANE
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=4328
Just spoke to Daniel at Z1 Motorsports in Carrolton, GA (about an hr away from me) and he says the solids are "god-awful" for daily driving.
SOOOOO...... Anyone have any decent quality urethane mounts?
SOOOOO...... Anyone have any decent quality urethane mounts?
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3304914...=sbar&_lwgsi=y
from megans website.
http://www.meganracingperformance.co...-p-232883.html
Last edited by fastintentions4; Jun 18, 2011 at 06:12 AM.
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Daily driving is not all the fun with solid mounts....but like I stated its personal preference and thats why I tossed up your items for sale if OP wanted to go that route
Last edited by fastintentions4; Jun 18, 2011 at 07:11 AM.
Id be curious to know why the OP thinks he needs new mounts in the first place? stock ones are quite strong
Will a solid mount transmit more NVH to the cabin? Absolutely - no way around that. Is it an awful/horrible experience? All relative.
Will a solid mount transmit more NVH to the cabin? Absolutely - no way around that. Is it an awful/horrible experience? All relative.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Jun 18, 2011 at 08:18 AM.
This thread has veered severely off-course, but Y'know when you turn that small shiny thing and the you hear that "Vroom Vroom" from the back? Well when that happens, i see that big thing in the front of the car shake..... alot.
(In proper terminology since everyone has turned a "WTB" thread into a "lets question what he wants while belittling him" thread)
Original Post edited to prevent more nonsense.
(In proper terminology since everyone has turned a "WTB" thread into a "lets question what he wants while belittling him" thread)
Original Post edited to prevent more nonsense.
I dont think we were belittling you at all just whats best for what you want to do to your car. I provided my opinion of having the solid mounts along with different links to different options. Your motor mounts may not be bad and it could just be the flex of your motor. You can easily fix that by adding in a torque damper for alot cheaper.
http://intensepower.com/stdabr35.html
http://intensepower.com/stdabr35.html
I think some including myself are questioning it because it is extremely rare for stock mounts to go bad unless there are significant extentuating circumstances. I don't see anyone belittling anyone. Bad mounts on a VQ make a racket in my experience. The only urethane set I've seen is Megan or Sunline Japan. Megan are cheap (no personal experience), Sunline aren't (never used those either). The others are either denser higher durometer rubber (NISMO) or solid
I think some including myself are questioning it because it is extremely rare for stock mounts to go bad unless there are significant extentuating circumstances. I don't see anyone belittling anyone. Bad mounts on a VQ make a racket in my experience. The only urethane set I've seen is Megan or Sunline Japan. Megan are cheap (no personal experience), Sunline aren't (never used those either). The others are either denser higher durometer rubber (NISMO) or solid
If anyone wants, they can call Daniel @ Z1 Motorsports in Carolton, GA to verify the information being given. (770) 838-7777
Well, thanks everyone that chimed-in. You all just saved me a few hundred dollars.
This takes me back to square 1; what's making the rhythmic vibrations; especially during turns? It's like... vibrate for 1-2 seconds; stop; vibrate for 1-2 seconds; stop..... this example is during a gradual turn on the interstate @ 65-70. I'm replacing the front and rear control arms and going from there.
No. I have 20" Verde Kaos's. 245/40/20 all around. I have the control arm thing taken care of (just ordered front and rear).
What should be the next culprit?
What should be the next culprit?
Last edited by bishop_98; Jun 19, 2011 at 09:54 PM.
you ordered rear control arms?
instead of just throwing parts at the car and hoping it solves it, get the car on a lift with any mechanic, and go through things in detail
it could be any number of things - wheel bearings would come to mind but impossible to know for sure without seeing the car
instead of just throwing parts at the car and hoping it solves it, get the car on a lift with any mechanic, and go through things in detail
it could be any number of things - wheel bearings would come to mind but impossible to know for sure without seeing the car
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