19" Ruff Racing 279 *Pics*
So after a rough start yesterday trying to figure out why my news rims were not going on (had to take off that nut on the front rims) I finally got my 279's mounted up. I got 245/35 up front and 275/30 in the rear. The Hotchkiss TVS 1 kit should be coming in next week to take care of the wheel gap. Heres some pics for now.
Last edited by Mendy9677; Jun 11, 2005 at 12:34 PM.
I got them from Bestwheel, the guys who sell them on ebay. But I called them up and ordered them over the phone because the ones on auction come with 235 & 265 Nankangs, I wanted the Hankooks and i wanted the 245 & 275. I got them mounted, balanced and shipped for $1800. In my opinion, there is no other wheels out there that look as good in that price range...lets just hope they hold up...
Glad you guys like them Scott did a hell of a job designing them.
I have had them for a couple of months and the only issue or thing I have noticed is that the paint will chip easy in the lug holes so make sure you use a deep thin socket maybe even put some tape on it to avoid chipping. The other thing is just th elip care, which is good since it is not clear coated, just make sure you do not leave any water specially if any rust from the calipers get on it but it is easy to take care of.
Scott wrote up a little something on our site for fixing hard stains or scratches:
the Ruff Racing parts don't have a clear coat on the lip, so, avoid waxing the polished part of the wheel...... only wax the center. The cleaner wax step is only necessary if you have let the brake dust build up for a while, otherwise, just waxing the centers with a decent paste wax (paste waxes go on thicker) is all that is required. Aluminum polish is perfect for the lips. The full chrome parts just require full waxing, no polishing. I can even go over repair instructions if anyone is interested.
and
The cleaner wax will pull most any stain out of the painted surface. For more stubborn ones you can add a rubbing compound stage before the wax(I don't recommend this stage on the HyperBlack wheels as the pearlessence can be quite fickle). The polished surface just requires an aluminum polish. Scratches are a little trickier. First step is a sand paper to smooth out the scratch, this varies depending on the severity, but, I would not go coarser than #400 grit on the first stage. Then you continue sanding the area with finer grits until you get to a 1200 or so. The steps should be in #200 increments to make hiding the sand marks easier. The last stages should be sanded with a "Wet" paper, this gives a finer finish. At the #1200 to #1400 stage the aluminum polish should do the trick. Localize your sanding to the scuff or scrape as it makes the repair easier to hide.
I have had them for a couple of months and the only issue or thing I have noticed is that the paint will chip easy in the lug holes so make sure you use a deep thin socket maybe even put some tape on it to avoid chipping. The other thing is just th elip care, which is good since it is not clear coated, just make sure you do not leave any water specially if any rust from the calipers get on it but it is easy to take care of.
Scott wrote up a little something on our site for fixing hard stains or scratches:
the Ruff Racing parts don't have a clear coat on the lip, so, avoid waxing the polished part of the wheel...... only wax the center. The cleaner wax step is only necessary if you have let the brake dust build up for a while, otherwise, just waxing the centers with a decent paste wax (paste waxes go on thicker) is all that is required. Aluminum polish is perfect for the lips. The full chrome parts just require full waxing, no polishing. I can even go over repair instructions if anyone is interested.
and
The cleaner wax will pull most any stain out of the painted surface. For more stubborn ones you can add a rubbing compound stage before the wax(I don't recommend this stage on the HyperBlack wheels as the pearlessence can be quite fickle). The polished surface just requires an aluminum polish. Scratches are a little trickier. First step is a sand paper to smooth out the scratch, this varies depending on the severity, but, I would not go coarser than #400 grit on the first stage. Then you continue sanding the area with finer grits until you get to a 1200 or so. The steps should be in #200 increments to make hiding the sand marks easier. The last stages should be sanded with a "Wet" paper, this gives a finer finish. At the #1200 to #1400 stage the aluminum polish should do the trick. Localize your sanding to the scuff or scrape as it makes the repair easier to hide.
Originally Posted by westpak
Glad you guys like them Scott did a hell of a job designing them.
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Originally Posted by doodeitstom
I am sure the quality of these rims are great but I doubt he designed them himself. They are identical to hre 546's.
Originally Posted by Mendy9677
So after a rough start yesterday trying to figure out why my news rims were not going on (had to take off that nut on the front rims) I finally got my 279's mounted up. I got 245/35 up front and 275/30 in the rear. The Hotchkiss TVS 1 kit should be coming in next week to take care of the wheel gap. Heres some pics for now.
i like those alot....... looks like the track rims with lip..... how wide are they and what offsets?
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