Review/Pics of my iForged Wheels
Originally posted by Brad4rdHay
No, I ordered a 2.5"....its just with a two peice wheel, thats what it looks like. What you should do, is try to go to a slightly lower offset in front...help push those front out to match the rears. Ask vince what will work up there.
No, I ordered a 2.5"....its just with a two peice wheel, thats what it looks like. What you should do, is try to go to a slightly lower offset in front...help push those front out to match the rears. Ask vince what will work up there.
Originally posted by rodH
actually, your fronys will be 2mm more towards the wheel well
(mine will be 3 more), and my rears will be 1 more than yours and skidazzles.
what size lips did you order and what model wheel??
actually, your fronys will be 2mm more towards the wheel well
(mine will be 3 more), and my rears will be 1 more than yours and skidazzles.
what size lips did you order and what model wheel??
Ordered the Aeros in brushed finish, without bolts.
Originally posted by 2003z
2" front 4" rear, but then changed the rear to 3".
Ordered the Aeros in brushed finish, without bolts.
2" front 4" rear, but then changed the rear to 3".
Ordered the Aeros in brushed finish, without bolts.
235/45-19 + 275/35-19 Bridgestone S-03's
$860 + 57 shipping, they arrived today from www.onlinetires.com
$860 + 57 shipping, they arrived today from www.onlinetires.com
Originally posted by 3rdpower
Please explain this in more detail - what's the deal with wheels being pushed out in the front more "OEM scrub radius" and how can this be detremental to the suspension? Pushing too far out causes too much suspension stress??
Please explain this in more detail - what's the deal with wheels being pushed out in the front more "OEM scrub radius" and how can this be detremental to the suspension? Pushing too far out causes too much suspension stress??
The same is true for the rear tires, even though they don't "steer", yet there is a toe change through wheel travel, causing the same detrimental effect, albeit smaller.
Putting this another way, going from an 8" front wheel to a 9", I would want 1/2" added toward the wheel well lip, and 1/2" toward the center of the car. Adding the full 1" to the lip would add 1" to the scrub radius.....not good.
Hope this helps, and I also hope someone MUCH more knowledgeable contributes.
Seems like most people adding BIG wheels could care less about the dynamic changes caused by their wheels and are only concerned about their looks. Not me.
Class dismisssed.
Originally posted by EnthuZ
I'll attempt to answer, I am not an engineer. A line drawn between the ball joints intersecting the ground is the center of the turning radius. I'll assume the factory point is at the center of the tire width. It may or may not be, as the designers chose the best place to make the car work. But, back to my assumption. Moving the tire inwards or outwards changes/adds to this radius. Increasing the tire/wheel width equally in and out from this point would be the best for maintaining stock scrub loads. Picture a Low-Rider with wheels sticking 3 inches outside the body work. The outer edge of the tire must travel a MUCH greater distance than it's inside tire edge when making a turn. More steering effort, along with more tire drag, more steering effort, and more tire scrub, more resistance, more wear etc. Also, the side loads on the wheel bearing increases. Not good!
The same is true for the rear tires, even though they don't "steer", yet there is a toe change through wheel travel, causing the same detrimental effect, albeit smaller.
Putting this another way, going from an 8" front wheel to a 9", I would want 1/2" added toward the wheel well lip, and 1/2" toward the center of the car. Adding the full 1" to the lip would add 1" to the scrub radius.....not good.
Hope this helps, and I also hope someone MUCH more knowledgeable contributes.
Seems like most people adding BIG wheels could care less about the dynamic changes caused by their wheels and are only concerned about their looks. Not me.
Class dismisssed.
I'll attempt to answer, I am not an engineer. A line drawn between the ball joints intersecting the ground is the center of the turning radius. I'll assume the factory point is at the center of the tire width. It may or may not be, as the designers chose the best place to make the car work. But, back to my assumption. Moving the tire inwards or outwards changes/adds to this radius. Increasing the tire/wheel width equally in and out from this point would be the best for maintaining stock scrub loads. Picture a Low-Rider with wheels sticking 3 inches outside the body work. The outer edge of the tire must travel a MUCH greater distance than it's inside tire edge when making a turn. More steering effort, along with more tire drag, more steering effort, and more tire scrub, more resistance, more wear etc. Also, the side loads on the wheel bearing increases. Not good!
The same is true for the rear tires, even though they don't "steer", yet there is a toe change through wheel travel, causing the same detrimental effect, albeit smaller.
Putting this another way, going from an 8" front wheel to a 9", I would want 1/2" added toward the wheel well lip, and 1/2" toward the center of the car. Adding the full 1" to the lip would add 1" to the scrub radius.....not good.
Hope this helps, and I also hope someone MUCH more knowledgeable contributes.
Seems like most people adding BIG wheels could care less about the dynamic changes caused by their wheels and are only concerned about their looks. Not me.
Class dismisssed.
BTW, the NISMO car has a different scrub radius than the stock Z, so I imagine there are certain perameters that are acceptable. I have a Honda civic that the wheels are mush further out than stock with NO problems, the car is almost 10 years old. I would assume the Z is built to withstand a slighlyt higher load than stock, we shall see.
Originally posted by ZDreamZ
hey 2003z, when did you order your tires? Aren't they on back order? Get back
hey 2003z, when did you order your tires? Aren't they on back order? Get back
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From: In a Village!
Well given this information I have the FS-6's on order with a offset which puts the rims flush with the fenders. I couldn't stand not having this 
I also went with a 3.25 lip versus a 4" hehehe... I couldn't do it! I guess peer pressure is a *****!
I also went with a 3.25 lip versus a 4" hehehe... I couldn't do it! I guess peer pressure is a *****!
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