Need your help with spacers and lugs?
04-01-2006, 02:30 PM
#1
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Need your help with spacers and lugs?
I was told that if I order spacer (15mm) that I would need to buy tuner bolts
has anyone done this or does anyone know what type of new lug size do I need?
Thank you guys!
Im still new to this whole thing!
has anyone done this or does anyone know what type of new lug size do I need?
Thank you guys!
Im still new to this whole thing!
04-01-2006, 04:36 PM
#3
If you buy decent, hubcentric spacers (H&R or Eibach; try Performance Nissan or look for people selling in the classifieds), they come with longer studs to replace the stock ones.
To replace studs, lift corner, remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, then shoot lugs with penetrating lube. Get two old lug nuts and cut the cap off one of them with a dremel cut-off wheel to make it open ended. Take the intact nut, screw it onto the end of one of the lugs and tap it out with a heavy hammer (takes several consistent med force hits; don't try to pound them out with a few hard swung ones). slip the new lug in from the back of the hub and screw on the open ended nut until it hits the hub, then tighten it down with a crescent wrench to draw the new lug into the hub. Repeat for the remaining bolts.
When doing the rear, be sure to leave the e-brake off so you can get the rotor off, then when you're doing the lugs, take the car out of gear (make sure it's sitting on level ground and be careful at this point) so you can spin the hub into the right position to be able to get the old bolts out and the new ones in from the backside, around the e-brake guts without having to further disassemble anything. Once you get the hang of it, each corner should only take you about 15-20 min.
To replace studs, lift corner, remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, then shoot lugs with penetrating lube. Get two old lug nuts and cut the cap off one of them with a dremel cut-off wheel to make it open ended. Take the intact nut, screw it onto the end of one of the lugs and tap it out with a heavy hammer (takes several consistent med force hits; don't try to pound them out with a few hard swung ones). slip the new lug in from the back of the hub and screw on the open ended nut until it hits the hub, then tighten it down with a crescent wrench to draw the new lug into the hub. Repeat for the remaining bolts.
When doing the rear, be sure to leave the e-brake off so you can get the rotor off, then when you're doing the lugs, take the car out of gear (make sure it's sitting on level ground and be careful at this point) so you can spin the hub into the right position to be able to get the old bolts out and the new ones in from the backside, around the e-brake guts without having to further disassemble anything. Once you get the hang of it, each corner should only take you about 15-20 min.
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 04-01-2006 at 04:40 PM.
04-01-2006, 05:01 PM
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WOW, thanx for the great write up!! exactly what I needed
I actually ordered the 15mm H&R spacer
ill post pics up of before and after
thanx alot!
I actually ordered the 15mm H&R spacer
ill post pics up of before and after
thanx alot!
04-10-2006, 01:27 PM
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Wow you was right that was easy.
Thank you men!!!!!
Thank you men!!!!!
Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
If you buy decent, hubcentric spacers (H&R or Eibach; try Performance Nissan or look for people selling in the classifieds), they come with longer studs to replace the stock ones.
To replace studs, lift corner, remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, then shoot lugs with penetrating lube. Get two old lug nuts and cut the cap off one of them with a dremel cut-off wheel to make it open ended. Take the intact nut, screw it onto the end of one of the lugs and tap it out with a heavy hammer (takes several consistent med force hits; don't try to pound them out with a few hard swung ones). slip the new lug in from the back of the hub and screw on the open ended nut until it hits the hub, then tighten it down with a crescent wrench to draw the new lug into the hub. Repeat for the remaining bolts.
When doing the rear, be sure to leave the e-brake off so you can get the rotor off, then when you're doing the lugs, take the car out of gear (make sure it's sitting on level ground and be careful at this point) so you can spin the hub into the right position to be able to get the old bolts out and the new ones in from the backside, around the e-brake guts without having to further disassemble anything. Once you get the hang of it, each corner should only take you about 15-20 min.
To replace studs, lift corner, remove wheel, brake caliper and rotor, then shoot lugs with penetrating lube. Get two old lug nuts and cut the cap off one of them with a dremel cut-off wheel to make it open ended. Take the intact nut, screw it onto the end of one of the lugs and tap it out with a heavy hammer (takes several consistent med force hits; don't try to pound them out with a few hard swung ones). slip the new lug in from the back of the hub and screw on the open ended nut until it hits the hub, then tighten it down with a crescent wrench to draw the new lug into the hub. Repeat for the remaining bolts.
When doing the rear, be sure to leave the e-brake off so you can get the rotor off, then when you're doing the lugs, take the car out of gear (make sure it's sitting on level ground and be careful at this point) so you can spin the hub into the right position to be able to get the old bolts out and the new ones in from the backside, around the e-brake guts without having to further disassemble anything. Once you get the hang of it, each corner should only take you about 15-20 min.
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