I just installed my new Wheels (18x8) with some Stock 18" rubber from a buy on here that put about 1K on them. I am using H&R Track+ Spacers and have the hub-centric rings for the wheels in too.. I torqued the lug nuts to 90lbs on both the spaer and the wheel. I have also re-torqued them after a 10 mile drive. (Some turned a 1/4 Turn)

At 50mph, there is no vibration
At 60mph, you feel just a hind of it when you corner
At 70mph, It feels like you are on broken pavement
At 80mph, It feels like you are on Gravel
At 90mph, I felt like scotty should be screeming at me "She just can't take much more of it captain.."


What could be wrong?

 

tire balanced?

 

It was supposed to be.. They said it was "Perfectly Balanced"... Makes me wonder..

 

Try loosening the lugs and re-tightening them 5 ft-lbs at a time in a cross pattern in case the wheels aren't seated correctly on the hubs.

Also, have a look at the wheels and make sure each one has at least some weight on it, one may have fallen off.

Chris

 

i think you may need hubcentric rings..

 

I Do have Hub Centric Rings on both the Wheels and the H&R (Built In). Which I think Might be part of the issue. I will type more on that below.

 

This seems to have reduced the vibration quite a bit.

At first, i thought the lugs where backing out a bit or loosening up,

BUT..

The Hub-Centric Rings seem to be "Settling" inside the center of the wheel. We tapped them in with a rubber mallet, but they may not have seated all the way.

I am going to continue to check and re-check the torque on the lugs.

Thanks for the Advice all.

 

Rebalance them.

 

oops sorry...didnt read it specifically what you wrote up there dude...lol..but yeah check them again in case i guess..maybe they do need to be replaced i dont know..

 

bad tire balance, take em back to get the wheels rebalanced

 

Before you ever mount tires make sure the wheels meet oem [Nissan] specs for axial and radial runout and require ZERO grams to be perfect themselves.

Probably less than 10% of aftermarket wheels sold are perfect after all transpotation to retailers.

The wheels themselves should require NO MORE THAN 5 grams inside and outside to be perfect!

Many shops use the COARSE setting to round grams to 0 thus allowing a 5 gram error to show as 0/0.

After the wheels are perfect them you can evaluate the tires.

Michelin always excells in the minimum amounts of required tire balance weight............any tire that requires more than 10 grams in total is not one I would accept...........it usually only gets worse not better.

Tire and wheel maintenance, balancing, and repairs over the vehicle life can often equal the cost of exotic wheels.

Evaluate tires after a 200-300 mile period then retest for balance........make sure you do a few WOT accelerations and ABS stops from 60 to make sure they don't rotate on the rims under extreme stress with the mounting lubricant slicking the way.

Infiniti specs that a radial force imbalnce of 14 pounds is acceptable my standard is 7 pounds max and that is feelable by an expert.

Michelin uses 5 pounds for rejection but that usually cannot be accomplished without special perfect wheels which have been measured and ground and built up by experts. Wheels should be tested and fixed every 10,000 miles as they will bend minutely...........why they are not warrantied.

Buy only the best forged wheels!

 

bent rims?!

 

I used to work at a tire shop and most of the time when you get nice wheels in they will use one stick-on weight in the middle so you cant see the weights on the outside lip.
Looks great, but you get a crappy balance.
There is another balance setting called an "alloy2" balance if they are using a Hunter high speed balancer.
The alloy 2 balance will place 2 weights on the wheel, one stick-on weight inside the wheel and one clip-on weight on the inner lip where its not visible and you will have a truer balance.

 

Looks like I found the Culprit. I got a set of Wheel Locks for the wheels and they came in the wrong thread pitch 12x.15, This chewed off the thread on my spacer's studs, so I was running on only 4 Lugs. The other 4 would work loose just a bit and I wound up with a mess. I will need to replace 10 Studs Total.

Anyone have the hookup on Replacement studs that will fit an H&R Spacer?


ALSO;

THANK YOU ALL for your time and advice, I still may have some balance issues even after getting this fixed.

 

Running on 4 lugs tight would not cause the vibration. I broke a stud when I was changing tires at a track event and had to drive 250 miles on 4 studs on one of the front tires and didn't have any vibration.

I think your vibration is causing the lugs to come loose, you have something else going on.

And replacing studs is easy and cheap. Just go to Nissan - pick up a stud for under $2 each, hammer out the old one. Push the new one on, use some washers and torque on your lug nut to about 100 ft-lbs. Take off lug nut and washers, install wheel and torque all nuts to 85 ft-lbs in a star pattern. Drive the car for about 100 miles and recheck all nuts to the 85 ft-lbs. Done!

 

Are we 100% Positive that a Stock Stud will work in a H&R DRM Type spacer?

Like This One;