After market strut bar VS Factory
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After market strut bar VS Factory
Ok, most of the people in this forum probably replace their factory strut bar with some of the after market one. I wanting to buy one also, but my question is that are those strut bar really different from the factory one? or they mainly just for cosmetic purpose.
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Thanks
#6
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What strut bar will clear the crawford ver 5 plenum???
I had the custom strut bar trhey sell, but now for some reason, it won't clear my latest mod, the turbonetics ST intake piping is a little larger than stock. I need a new strut bar that will either clear the intake pipe, or the taller plenum.
Please advise.
If you don't know which will work, are there any available risers that can be purchased to fit strut bars like the cusco or JIC style strut bar???
I had the custom strut bar trhey sell, but now for some reason, it won't clear my latest mod, the turbonetics ST intake piping is a little larger than stock. I need a new strut bar that will either clear the intake pipe, or the taller plenum.
Please advise.
If you don't know which will work, are there any available risers that can be purchased to fit strut bars like the cusco or JIC style strut bar???
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Originally Posted by gringott
Another factor that we often don't consider on the forums is that, to my knowledge, only the factory STB is adjustable.
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having an adjustable strut brace is really not a desirable thing honestly....one without any joints is what you want.
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
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Originally Posted by Kolia
Do you have a Z or plan to get one ??? :P
Pop your hood !
Pop your hood !
...so I guess the adjustable part is the tension/rigidity?...not the length right?
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
having an adjustable strut brace is really not a desirable thing honestly....one without any joints is what you want.
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
having an adjustable strut brace is really not a desirable thing honestly....one without any joints is what you want.
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
that being said, stock is a great unit....any others merely look pretty...which is the sole reason I got the Cusco one
My understanding is that the strut tower bar provides "stiffness" or braces between the two sides of the front frame. If you have a totally unadjustable bar, you have a bar that is designed for a perfect spacing. In other words, the tollerances are perfect on all years, models, etc of 350Z, regardless of what they have been through etc. The ability to apply tension to the bracing seems to make sense to me vs. one size fits all. I do not believe a band of steel like the cusco is going to flex any less than the stock tube with a tension adjuster nut. Please show me where I am wrong in my thinking.
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You are right with respect to the Cusco, or just about every other brace that is out there for the Z except for 1 that I can think of (ARC). Like I said, it's function is to look nice, and that is why they make it and why I got it. But the fact remains that any bar wth any sort of joint to it is a source of movement. When you look at true motorsport level braces, they follow the same design parameters as a proper rollcage - that is zero bolted together joints.
The ideal brace is either one piece, or welded to be one piece, for minimal flexing. But, like I've posted before, it's all semantics. The stock brace is a great piece - the only reason to change it either for space reasons (for example, my stock brace hit the underside of my carbon hood, the Cusco, by virtue of being eider than it is tall, does not hit), or for aesthetic reasons.
The ideal brace is either one piece, or welded to be one piece, for minimal flexing. But, like I've posted before, it's all semantics. The stock brace is a great piece - the only reason to change it either for space reasons (for example, my stock brace hit the underside of my carbon hood, the Cusco, by virtue of being eider than it is tall, does not hit), or for aesthetic reasons.
#16
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I understand the roll cage. they are welded in place after being fitted. But the aftermarket bars are not, they come at a particular length period. The joint on the stock strut tower bar is adjusted to provide the proper tension, or in other words to remove slop. In other words, by tightening the adjuster, slop or loosness is removed, the correct lenght and tension for the particular car is maintained. How do the non adjustable bars remove slop or adjust for slight differences between cars? I understand completly the looks part, almost all of the aftermarket bars look better IMO, and I understand the fit part for a hood, that is clear, all fine reasons to replace the stock bar. But I am really looking for the grounding of your statement that a non-custom (particular individual car) made bar is better simply because there is no joint.
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On the aftermarket bars I've seen (Cusco, as that's what I am most familiar with), the bolt holes are slotted, allowing them to be fitted into position properly, and I've yet to see a car where they simply would not fit, unless it was in a bad accident. My point being, whether you make the bar able to be moved at its base or at its center is really of little consequence either way - the ideal bar will not have any such movable joiints whatsoever.
I've had my stock bar on and off my car many times, and especially after track use, have found it needing to be retightened. I also notice on my cusco when I periodically remove it, you can see "sliding" marks where the washers come in contact with the base. In either case, the bar is obviously moving. A bar without joints, that is drilled to fit the car, or even better, is welded to the towers, obviously canot have such movement, resulting in a stiffer bar. Now, whether that would make any practical difference is largely subjective, especially on a street car.
I've had my stock bar on and off my car many times, and especially after track use, have found it needing to be retightened. I also notice on my cusco when I periodically remove it, you can see "sliding" marks where the washers come in contact with the base. In either case, the bar is obviously moving. A bar without joints, that is drilled to fit the car, or even better, is welded to the towers, obviously canot have such movement, resulting in a stiffer bar. Now, whether that would make any practical difference is largely subjective, especially on a street car.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 07-26-2006 at 06:36 AM.
#18
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Ok, I get where you are coming from I think. The difference is slight, anyway. But a ridgid bar will tend to move less. I agree, and it makes sense, that a solid bar welded between the two would be ideal, but not practical. And I did not allow for the slotted bolt holes on the aftermarket bars, which are a form of adjustment, and a point of movement as well. I think it is safe to say that the actual performance difference between OEM and aftermarket will be very, very slight, if at all.
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exactly - I noticed zero difference going from stock to Cusco, back to stock, back to Cusco. I like how the Cusco looks, and it happens to give better clearance for my hood, so it was a win win
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Who do you recommend to chrome parts?
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
STOCK all the way!
Unless you want looks...
But then again... We have had them chromed...
Unless you want looks...
But then again... We have had them chromed...