Questions for HREwheelmaker
Questions for HREwheelmaker
HREwheelmaker, could you post some answers to questions regarding your wheels?
1. Which wheel locks do you recommend? Do you sell them? Any special requirements?
2. Your wheels are available with several finish options. Could you advise on care and cleaning recommendations? Any specifics for different finishes eg..... brushed, polished.
3. Is the use of crystal guard, zaino ok?
thanks in advance.. zhguitar
1. Which wheel locks do you recommend? Do you sell them? Any special requirements?
2. Your wheels are available with several finish options. Could you advise on care and cleaning recommendations? Any specifics for different finishes eg..... brushed, polished.
3. Is the use of crystal guard, zaino ok?
thanks in advance.. zhguitar
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
Hello zh...
I'll answer you questions in order:
1) HRE can furnish appropriate conical seat locking lug nuts for our wheels. Our wheels are drilled for a "60 degree conical seat," essentially standard in the aftermarket wheel industry.
On the 350Z group buy orders, I've been providing a set of locks with the lug nuts at no charge.
2) Generally, soap & waster is sufficient (and safe) to clean any of our wheel finishes.
On an un-clearcoated polished wheel, soap & water is definitely the best choice- stay away from any cleaners with lyes or acids (like would be found in a chrome wheel cleaner), as they can actually etch the polished finish somewhat.
Dry the polished wheels immediately after washing to avoid hard water spots. If the wheels do get hard water spots, I find the best way to get rid of them is to just re-wash them w/ soap & water.
To maintain the polished finish, use a product like SimiChrome or Blue Magic once in a while.
Our brushed finish is always clearcoated- on polished/clearcoated, brushed/clearcoated, or painted wheels, soap & water actually will remove 90% of all road grime & brake dust- if the wheels get really grungy, I have found Simple Green to be very effective for cleaning our wheels.
On our chrome finish, Windex works great.
One tip for detailing wheels - I usually 'pat' mine somewhat dry with a soft Chamois or towel, then I just take the car for a quick spin to 'throw' the residual water out of the wheels, mirrors, etc. Then you can park the car & finish drying the wheels & the car, for a streak-free finish (my MR2 and Corolla GT-S seem to drip water for hours if I don't do this!).
3) Any non-abrasive wax/sealer is fine, in my experience. I am not specifically familiar with Crystal Guard, but I've had good luck with Zaino, Zymol, and a product we found at SEMA 2001 called Wheel Wax.
There are two different schools of thought on waxing wheels:
One is that the waxing helps the surface finish resist brake dust & road grime, making the wheels easier to clean.
The second (as told to me by the guys at Eagle One) is that spirited driving, and the heat generated by heavy braking, can cause the thin layer of wax on the wheels to melt- when the wax is in this semi-solid form, brake dust & other corruption can actually stick to the wax. Then, the wax re-solidifies at it cools- making the wheels actually MORE difficult to clean than if they were uncoated.
I have waxed my wheels on occassion, and haven't really found this to be a big problem- but our wheels are easy enough to clean either way. The best thing you can do is to clean the wheels often- if you let them go for a few months, it might take some work to clean all the grime off.
I actually remove my wheels about once a month or so to clean the inner rims, brake calipers, springs & shocks, etc... but I am nutty like that.
Fortunately, most people that spend money on a nice set of wheels tend to maintain them pretty well.
I hope this helps!
Regards,
Bob Hale
Technical Specialist
HRE Performance Wheels
bobh@hrewheels.com
I'll answer you questions in order:
1) HRE can furnish appropriate conical seat locking lug nuts for our wheels. Our wheels are drilled for a "60 degree conical seat," essentially standard in the aftermarket wheel industry.
On the 350Z group buy orders, I've been providing a set of locks with the lug nuts at no charge.
2) Generally, soap & waster is sufficient (and safe) to clean any of our wheel finishes.
On an un-clearcoated polished wheel, soap & water is definitely the best choice- stay away from any cleaners with lyes or acids (like would be found in a chrome wheel cleaner), as they can actually etch the polished finish somewhat.
Dry the polished wheels immediately after washing to avoid hard water spots. If the wheels do get hard water spots, I find the best way to get rid of them is to just re-wash them w/ soap & water.
To maintain the polished finish, use a product like SimiChrome or Blue Magic once in a while.
Our brushed finish is always clearcoated- on polished/clearcoated, brushed/clearcoated, or painted wheels, soap & water actually will remove 90% of all road grime & brake dust- if the wheels get really grungy, I have found Simple Green to be very effective for cleaning our wheels.
On our chrome finish, Windex works great.
One tip for detailing wheels - I usually 'pat' mine somewhat dry with a soft Chamois or towel, then I just take the car for a quick spin to 'throw' the residual water out of the wheels, mirrors, etc. Then you can park the car & finish drying the wheels & the car, for a streak-free finish (my MR2 and Corolla GT-S seem to drip water for hours if I don't do this!).
3) Any non-abrasive wax/sealer is fine, in my experience. I am not specifically familiar with Crystal Guard, but I've had good luck with Zaino, Zymol, and a product we found at SEMA 2001 called Wheel Wax.
There are two different schools of thought on waxing wheels:
One is that the waxing helps the surface finish resist brake dust & road grime, making the wheels easier to clean.
The second (as told to me by the guys at Eagle One) is that spirited driving, and the heat generated by heavy braking, can cause the thin layer of wax on the wheels to melt- when the wax is in this semi-solid form, brake dust & other corruption can actually stick to the wax. Then, the wax re-solidifies at it cools- making the wheels actually MORE difficult to clean than if they were uncoated.
I have waxed my wheels on occassion, and haven't really found this to be a big problem- but our wheels are easy enough to clean either way. The best thing you can do is to clean the wheels often- if you let them go for a few months, it might take some work to clean all the grime off.
I actually remove my wheels about once a month or so to clean the inner rims, brake calipers, springs & shocks, etc... but I am nutty like that.
Fortunately, most people that spend money on a nice set of wheels tend to maintain them pretty well.
I hope this helps!
Regards,
Bob Hale
Technical Specialist
HRE Performance Wheels
bobh@hrewheels.com
Originally posted by LS350Z
Bob - that was by far the most informative post I've ever read on this subject. Kudos to you and HRE for having great products and great assistance.
Bob - that was by far the most informative post I've ever read on this subject. Kudos to you and HRE for having great products and great assistance.
About two or three years ago HRE was just beginning to build their 400 series wheels. The ad in the magazines featured a yellow Lexus IS300 with what looked like an anthracite colored 440.
I had a dark blue (Santorin Blue for Audi fans) Audi A4 at the time and thought that would look great on the car. I called HRE and talked directly with Bob. He explained that the color in the ad was not really one of their wheel colors... it was actually the way the printing was done that made the wheel look darker.
Anyway, Bob said that he had so many calls about that color that HRE was looking at developing it!
I traveled a lot for work and mentioned to Bob that I may be in their neighborhood one day. Bob said to come by, ask for him and he'd give me a tour. I never made it to California and never was able to take Bob up on that tour.... but his graciousness and willingness to chat away on the phone about wheels and such has always stuck with me.
When I can afford them, I will certainly be on the phone to Bob placing my order for a set of HRE wheels.
Peter Haas
HRE
Bravo! Thanks for the info. Once again another example of HREs dedication to customer service. That was one of most informative answers I've read.
Anyone else have questions for HREwheelmaker please post here. Please try to keep questions limited to those dealing with his products.
zhguitar
Anyone else have questions for HREwheelmaker please post here. Please try to keep questions limited to those dealing with his products.
zhguitar
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Ferndale, MI
The second (as told to me by the guys at Eagle One) is that spirited driving, and the heat generated by heavy braking, can cause the thin layer of wax on the wheels to melt- when the wax is in this semi-solid form, brake dust & other corruption can actually stick to the wax. Then, the wax re-solidifies at it cools- making the wheels actually MORE difficult to clean than if they were uncoated.
Good point about the heat and the wax. I wonder if Crystal Guard would work. It says it's stable to 572' F. How hot do wheels get anyway?
If the wheels are already clearcoated from the factory then is another layer redundent or extra protection?
zhguitar
If the wheels are already clearcoated from the factory then is another layer redundent or extra protection?
zhguitar
Trending Topics
Originally posted by HREWheelMaker
Hello zh...
I'll answer you questions in order:
1) HRE can furnish appropriate conical seat locking lug nuts for our wheels. Our wheels are drilled for a "60 degree conical seat," essentially standard in the aftermarket wheel industry.
On the 350Z group buy orders, I've been providing a set of locks with the lug nuts at no charge.
2) Generally, soap & waster is sufficient (and safe) to clean any of our wheel finishes.
On an un-clearcoated polished wheel, soap & water is definitely the best choice- stay away from any cleaners with lyes or acids (like would be found in a chrome wheel cleaner), as they can actually etch the polished finish somewhat.
Dry the polished wheels immediately after washing to avoid hard water spots. If the wheels do get hard water spots, I find the best way to get rid of them is to just re-wash them w/ soap & water.
To maintain the polished finish, use a product like SimiChrome or Blue Magic once in a while.
Our brushed finish is always clearcoated- on polished/clearcoated, brushed/clearcoated, or painted wheels, soap & water actually will remove 90% of all road grime & brake dust- if the wheels get really grungy, I have found Simple Green to be very effective for cleaning our wheels.
On our chrome finish, Windex works great.
One tip for detailing wheels - I usually 'pat' mine somewhat dry with a soft Chamois or towel, then I just take the car for a quick spin to 'throw' the residual water out of the wheels, mirrors, etc. Then you can park the car & finish drying the wheels & the car, for a streak-free finish (my MR2 and Corolla GT-S seem to drip water for hours if I don't do this!).
3) Any non-abrasive wax/sealer is fine, in my experience. I am not specifically familiar with Crystal Guard, but I've had good luck with Zaino, Zymol, and a product we found at SEMA 2001 called Wheel Wax.
There are two different schools of thought on waxing wheels:
One is that the waxing helps the surface finish resist brake dust & road grime, making the wheels easier to clean.
The second (as told to me by the guys at Eagle One) is that spirited driving, and the heat generated by heavy braking, can cause the thin layer of wax on the wheels to melt- when the wax is in this semi-solid form, brake dust & other corruption can actually stick to the wax. Then, the wax re-solidifies at it cools- making the wheels actually MORE difficult to clean than if they were uncoated.
I have waxed my wheels on occassion, and haven't really found this to be a big problem- but our wheels are easy enough to clean either way. The best thing you can do is to clean the wheels often- if you let them go for a few months, it might take some work to clean all the grime off.
I actually remove my wheels about once a month or so to clean the inner rims, brake calipers, springs & shocks, etc... but I am nutty like that.
Fortunately, most people that spend money on a nice set of wheels tend to maintain them pretty well.
I hope this helps!
Regards,
Bob Hale
Technical Specialist
HRE Performance Wheels
bobh@hrewheels.com
Hello zh...
I'll answer you questions in order:
1) HRE can furnish appropriate conical seat locking lug nuts for our wheels. Our wheels are drilled for a "60 degree conical seat," essentially standard in the aftermarket wheel industry.
On the 350Z group buy orders, I've been providing a set of locks with the lug nuts at no charge.
2) Generally, soap & waster is sufficient (and safe) to clean any of our wheel finishes.
On an un-clearcoated polished wheel, soap & water is definitely the best choice- stay away from any cleaners with lyes or acids (like would be found in a chrome wheel cleaner), as they can actually etch the polished finish somewhat.
Dry the polished wheels immediately after washing to avoid hard water spots. If the wheels do get hard water spots, I find the best way to get rid of them is to just re-wash them w/ soap & water.
To maintain the polished finish, use a product like SimiChrome or Blue Magic once in a while.
Our brushed finish is always clearcoated- on polished/clearcoated, brushed/clearcoated, or painted wheels, soap & water actually will remove 90% of all road grime & brake dust- if the wheels get really grungy, I have found Simple Green to be very effective for cleaning our wheels.
On our chrome finish, Windex works great.
One tip for detailing wheels - I usually 'pat' mine somewhat dry with a soft Chamois or towel, then I just take the car for a quick spin to 'throw' the residual water out of the wheels, mirrors, etc. Then you can park the car & finish drying the wheels & the car, for a streak-free finish (my MR2 and Corolla GT-S seem to drip water for hours if I don't do this!).
3) Any non-abrasive wax/sealer is fine, in my experience. I am not specifically familiar with Crystal Guard, but I've had good luck with Zaino, Zymol, and a product we found at SEMA 2001 called Wheel Wax.
There are two different schools of thought on waxing wheels:
One is that the waxing helps the surface finish resist brake dust & road grime, making the wheels easier to clean.
The second (as told to me by the guys at Eagle One) is that spirited driving, and the heat generated by heavy braking, can cause the thin layer of wax on the wheels to melt- when the wax is in this semi-solid form, brake dust & other corruption can actually stick to the wax. Then, the wax re-solidifies at it cools- making the wheels actually MORE difficult to clean than if they were uncoated.
I have waxed my wheels on occassion, and haven't really found this to be a big problem- but our wheels are easy enough to clean either way. The best thing you can do is to clean the wheels often- if you let them go for a few months, it might take some work to clean all the grime off.
I actually remove my wheels about once a month or so to clean the inner rims, brake calipers, springs & shocks, etc... but I am nutty like that.
Fortunately, most people that spend money on a nice set of wheels tend to maintain them pretty well.
I hope this helps!
Regards,
Bob Hale
Technical Specialist
HRE Performance Wheels
bobh@hrewheels.com
Re: We have a HRE Gb going on now
Originally posted by Avalon Racing
We have a HRE Gb going on now for those who missed out on the first one.
Regards
We have a HRE Gb going on now for those who missed out on the first one.
Regards
Ok thanks any details and costs about this group buy going on now?
Yes
We are doingthis one a little different.
We are offering our Avalon Regular prices that saves about $700.00 to $1000.00 dollars per set depending on options.
If we get 3 or more confirmed orders, we are further reducing the price even further.
I am cutiing off this special on May 1st.
Thi sis on all series and styles. All orders require 50% down and the balance minus any further discounts 1 week prior to shipment from HRE to you.
Lugs, stems, caps and banding material is free. Shipping runs about $60.00 to $100.00 dollars.
By e-mail we are sending out a full quote showing the starting price as well as the reduced price if 3 or more orders are placed. If I get 6 or more I can get further discounts.
I have 6 quotes out for review rigth now.
Regards
We are offering our Avalon Regular prices that saves about $700.00 to $1000.00 dollars per set depending on options.
If we get 3 or more confirmed orders, we are further reducing the price even further.
I am cutiing off this special on May 1st.
Thi sis on all series and styles. All orders require 50% down and the balance minus any further discounts 1 week prior to shipment from HRE to you.
Lugs, stems, caps and banding material is free. Shipping runs about $60.00 to $100.00 dollars.
By e-mail we are sending out a full quote showing the starting price as well as the reduced price if 3 or more orders are placed. If I get 6 or more I can get further discounts.
I have 6 quotes out for review rigth now.
Regards
For those interested in the HRE group purchase please feel free to ask questions here. I am in no way connected with Avalon or HRE other than the fact that I am a satisfied customer.
The quality of these are impecable.
I also received banding material for the TPS and wheel locks at no extra charge.
Thanks again HREwheelmaker.
and thanks to Avalon Racing.
zhguitar
The quality of these are impecable.
I also received banding material for the TPS and wheel locks at no extra charge.
Thanks again HREwheelmaker.
and thanks to Avalon Racing.
zhguitar
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 585
Likes: 0
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Well, I wasn't planning on purchasing for a few more months (still building the house thing, argh) but, to save possibly $1000 I might just have to jump on it. 
Paul: If you recall we exchanged PM's once about me getting the wheels and tires from you pre-mounted, would that still be possible even in the group buy?
I'd like to get the straight up SEMA spec wheels (brushed face, polished lip) 100% clear coated.
Can you PM me about this (pricing, tires, etc)?
Thanks!
Paul: If you recall we exchanged PM's once about me getting the wheels and tires from you pre-mounted, would that still be possible even in the group buy?
I'd like to get the straight up SEMA spec wheels (brushed face, polished lip) 100% clear coated.
Can you PM me about this (pricing, tires, etc)?
Thanks!
Jeff -
Send me an e-mail and I can look up the quote from before. I believe we still have it.
I can then re-do the quote. The last group buy we were able tyo use 2002 prices. For 2003 there has been a slight price hike. The savings are about the same.
We can ship mounted and balanced but it is safer for the wheels and tires to go seperately. We can work out something for you.
In your e-mail , I also need the tires you prefer.
Regards
I can then re-do the quote. The last group buy we were able tyo use 2002 prices. For 2003 there has been a slight price hike. The savings are about the same.
We can ship mounted and balanced but it is safer for the wheels and tires to go seperately. We can work out something for you.
In your e-mail , I also need the tires you prefer.
Regards
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