if you know offsets, come hither
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Originally Posted by redlude97
read his post again, he makes no mention of wheel height, only tire height
Originally Posted by 1nate7
I'd go with the RPF1 9.5 +15 all around. It's about as aggressive for the rear as you can get without causing problems up front. It's also plenty wide if you are just going to run 265's and would even give them a very slight stretch.
fiotting super wide, super aggressive offsets up front and out back can be a very good thing...if you have the suspension geometry to make it work well. Otherwise, it can do little else but look good
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
and also causes a ton of tramlining on the highway too
fiotting super wide, super aggressive offsets up front and out back can be a very good thing...if you have the suspension geometry to make it work well. Otherwise, it can do little else but look good
fiotting super wide, super aggressive offsets up front and out back can be a very good thing...if you have the suspension geometry to make it work well. Otherwise, it can do little else but look good
so basically to make running wide front and rear i'll have to get adjustable camber arms to make it all work worth a d*mn.
Do you want it to "work" or do you want it actually give you a benefit?
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Do you want it to "work" or do you want it actually give you a benefit?
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
The only answer I can give is "it depends".
Some cars need, and can benefit from, adjustable swaybar endlinks as well. Alot of it depends on the setup of the car. Other cars either won't need them, or the owners don't want them.
I fall into the camp of people who simply won't use them on anything short of a full track car, that never sees street duty. Having used them before on tons of cars, I simply find them to be too noisy and requiring attention during a season. In addition, I don't run sways big enough on any of my cars to actually make use of the adjustable links. This is, of course, generally speaking, as I have not used any on my Z, nor will I. My car managed is cornerweighted without adjustable endlinks (with stock links in fact), and I found no need for them at all on my car. Plus, since my car is a daily driver during the spring/summer/fall, I simply won't use any adjustable endlink on it.
Some cars need, and can benefit from, adjustable swaybar endlinks as well. Alot of it depends on the setup of the car. Other cars either won't need them, or the owners don't want them.
I fall into the camp of people who simply won't use them on anything short of a full track car, that never sees street duty. Having used them before on tons of cars, I simply find them to be too noisy and requiring attention during a season. In addition, I don't run sways big enough on any of my cars to actually make use of the adjustable links. This is, of course, generally speaking, as I have not used any on my Z, nor will I. My car managed is cornerweighted without adjustable endlinks (with stock links in fact), and I found no need for them at all on my car. Plus, since my car is a daily driver during the spring/summer/fall, I simply won't use any adjustable endlink on it.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
The only answer I can give is "it depends".
Some cars need, and can benefit from, adjustable swaybar endlinks as well. Alot of it depends on the setup of the car. Other cars either won't need them, or the owners don't want them.
I fall into the camp of people who simply won't use them on anything short of a full track car, that never sees street duty. Having used them before on tons of cars, I simply find them to be too noisy and requiring attention during a season. In addition, I don't run sways big enough on any of my cars to actually make use of the adjustable links. This is, of course, generally speaking, as I have not used any on my Z, nor will I. My car managed is cornerweighted without adjustable endlinks (with stock links in fact), and I found no need for them at all on my car. Plus, since my car is a daily driver during the spring/summer/fall, I simply won't use any adjustable endlink on it.
Some cars need, and can benefit from, adjustable swaybar endlinks as well. Alot of it depends on the setup of the car. Other cars either won't need them, or the owners don't want them.
I fall into the camp of people who simply won't use them on anything short of a full track car, that never sees street duty. Having used them before on tons of cars, I simply find them to be too noisy and requiring attention during a season. In addition, I don't run sways big enough on any of my cars to actually make use of the adjustable links. This is, of course, generally speaking, as I have not used any on my Z, nor will I. My car managed is cornerweighted without adjustable endlinks (with stock links in fact), and I found no need for them at all on my car. Plus, since my car is a daily driver during the spring/summer/fall, I simply won't use any adjustable endlink on it.
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k. So wider wheels & tires, some cusco sways, and some tein basic coilovers are what I have been looking at gettin over the next 6 months. I'm not super **** about the suspension and i'm not looking at shaving 1/100ths of a second off my track times, I just want alot more grip, and a suspension system that will keep the nose from dipping under hard braking, and the body from rolling under hard cornering.
Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
well the front and rears are both have 45mm profiles, and theyre both sitting on 18 inch wheels, so regardless, hes wrong. stop being argumentative
FYI, the sidewall number is a percentage, not a fixed number. The 45 you listed above means that the sidewall is 45% of the width. So a 225/45 will have a smaller sidewall than a 245/45, resulting in a larger diameter in the rear.
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Originally Posted by 1nate7
Don't be so critical of people who are just trying to help you. All Z's do come with staggered tires, both width and diameter. Since you have a base model VDC won't be an issue but that wasn't known until later.
FYI, the sidewall number is a percentage, not a fixed number. The 45 you listed above means that the sidewall is 45% of the width. So a 225/45 will have a smaller sidewall than a 245/45, resulting in a larger diameter in the rear.
FYI, the sidewall number is a percentage, not a fixed number. The 45 you listed above means that the sidewall is 45% of the width. So a 225/45 will have a smaller sidewall than a 245/45, resulting in a larger diameter in the rear.
Last edited by ke0ki2k; Mar 29, 2007 at 10:53 AM.
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18x10.5+15 fit? or should i just throw out the idea of tire rotation and keep staggered? 18x10.5+15 rear, 18x9.5+15 front
Last edited by ke0ki2k; Mar 29, 2007 at 12:49 PM.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Do you want it to "work" or do you want it actually give you a benefit?
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
To be beneficial, beyond just looking cool you'll need ALOT of stuff - adjustable coilovers with independant height vs preload, adjustable camber arms up front, adjustable camber arms/toe provision (like SPC) out back, and a really good alignment shop with a set of cornerweighting scales to set everything up as it should be.
Alot of people just toss on the big wheels and big tires, and because it feels different, they automatically assume it is better. If the overall look is your goal, you can certainly go this route. If your goal is to actually improve the overall handling dynamics of the car through such modifations, there is quite alot involved in getting it setup correctly. None of which is hard to do, it just takes some planning, and of course, the proper budget
your post is very informative but I'm now concerned about my recent purchase..
just got Volk GTS 9.5 ett +17, and 10.5 ett +18 for the rears. I plan to put this on 255 f, 285 r. Will be using tanabe gf210 to lower...
how's this set up? Am I going to have problems? I just don't want it to look good with aggresive offset but I want it to be functional as well. Will I have any problems similar to what you were saying above?
not the most aggressive setup out there, but you will need to align the car afterwards - your rear toe will be likely be far off from "nominal", getting that corrected with something like an SPC kit will bo of tremendous benefit.
The thing to keep in mind is that these cars (as with all cars) don't come from the factory with the same alignments - they come with a range of settings, all of which "should" be within factory alotted specs, but I would not teak that for granted. That is why each car is affected differently when lowering, and different wheels and tires are brouth into the mix. Anytime you change the height of the car, or the contact patch of the tire to the ground, alignment should at least be checked, and if needed, adjusted.
The thing to keep in mind is that these cars (as with all cars) don't come from the factory with the same alignments - they come with a range of settings, all of which "should" be within factory alotted specs, but I would not teak that for granted. That is why each car is affected differently when lowering, and different wheels and tires are brouth into the mix. Anytime you change the height of the car, or the contact patch of the tire to the ground, alignment should at least be checked, and if needed, adjusted.
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
not the most aggressive setup out there, but you will need to align the car afterwards - your rear toe will be likely be far off from "nominal", getting that corrected with something like an SPC kit will bo of tremendous benefit.
The thing to keep in mind is that these cars (as with all cars) don't come from the factory with the same alignments - they come with a range of settings, all of which "should" be within factory alotted specs, but I would not teak that for granted. That is why each car is affected differently when lowering, and different wheels and tires are brouth into the mix. Anytime you change the height of the car, or the contact patch of the tire to the ground, alignment should at least be checked, and if needed, adjusted.
The thing to keep in mind is that these cars (as with all cars) don't come from the factory with the same alignments - they come with a range of settings, all of which "should" be within factory alotted specs, but I would not teak that for granted. That is why each car is affected differently when lowering, and different wheels and tires are brouth into the mix. Anytime you change the height of the car, or the contact patch of the tire to the ground, alignment should at least be checked, and if needed, adjusted.
changing the contact patch is exactly what an alignment does
that's why you can't do it with worn tires - its a waste because as soon as you fit new tires, the contact patch changes and thus so does the alignment
that's why you can't do it with worn tires - its a waste because as soon as you fit new tires, the contact patch changes and thus so does the alignment
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
changing the contact patch is exactly what an alignment does
that's why you can't do it with worn tires - its a waste because as soon as you fit new tires, the contact patch changes and thus so does the alignment
that's why you can't do it with worn tires - its a waste because as soon as you fit new tires, the contact patch changes and thus so does the alignment
gotcha, my tires are completely worn out so when i get new tires im getting new wheels, and the wheels/tires are both going to be considerably wider. So i will need an alignment afterwards?
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