Dang, Urban had to regulate. I've been waiting to see your setup, and it was well worth the wait. Props for doing everything yourself, and giving out offset numbers. Cause I've noticed some secret offsets floating around these boards lately.

 

It looks as if the axles broke

Still mean looking though. GJ

 

urban wat tire size you running?

 

and what wing is that??

 

its vertex

 

Yup, camber is dynamic and changes with height and can be measured with what is known as a "camber curve."

At the end of the day, a little piece of the tire is not in contact with the pavement but I have an 11" wheel. My rear tire is stretched and the 265mm tire is approx 10.5". Say about 1-1.5" of the tire isn't touching the ground when it is fully lowered, that is STILL just as much tire touching the ground as the stock rubber (245mm right?).

But, as you said, that's when I am fully lowered. When I am at ride height it's not as aggressive as the picture that someone posted above...maybe half of that.

 

Front: 245/35/19
Rear: 275/30/19

 

Hahaha the "broken" look is always fun because people circle the car and wonder how its done

 

Thanks

As far as secret offsets, I was like that before I had my wheels installed and suspension components built. But, now that its all public and pics of the car are floating around on the internet, I'll answer anyone's questions

 

I'm running Vertex like Tan said earlier. Full Vertex all around including the hood spoiler.

 

 

wat was done to the fender and suspension to actually fit this? any pictures of the air system?

 

A friend directed me towards this thread and I felt compelled to post because, frankly, I see the same sort of sentiments on every car mssg board all the time, and it sorta sucks to see how much ignorance is passed off as "opinion," whether supporting or decrying the whole concept of wide wheels/low offset, flushness, stretched tires, etc....

I think people need to realize that everyone does have different opinions, but it's one thing to say something like "I don't like the way those wheels look because it's really not my style" or, "I don't like that because I think it sticks out too far." All good... those are subjective opinions, and everyone is entitled to them. But when people say stuff like "I think that's stupid because your tires aren't going to last more than a few weeks" or "You're an idiot because you just threw all performance out the window" etc... then I gotta laugh because often times those "opinions" are based on nothing more than conjecture, and unfortunately, show that the poster is a tad ignorant on the subject, especially this one.

On the issue of tire wear, as many people have pointed out, with most modern multi-link suspensions, beyond-spec-camber alone does not drastically reduce tire life. Does it takes its toll? Of course! Does it make your tires last just a few weeks? Of course not, unless you're an idiot! The true killer of tires in cases like these is the combination of both camber and toe that are out of spec... and as with most multi-link susp, as you adjust camber, the toe is also tweaked accordingly. The best way to think about it is imagine your wheels are like this:

If all you did was add camber (i.e. tilt it / or \ as viewed from the front), you'll still be able to do your ab rolling pretty easily. But if you tilted the wheels / or \ as viewed from the top, looking down (i.e. adding toe), you won't be going anywhere fast, and it's that scrubbing that kills tires in no time flat. The fix, is to just make sure you realign your car at ride height, with the camber you desire, and then make sure the toe is brought back to spec. In the case of a car that has a bit of bumpsteer, you take that into account, considering the amount of susp travel once the car is loaded with a driver and over a certain range of travel depending on what kind of driving the car will do, and actually dial in the toe accordingly to compensate for that... end result? A cambered setup that does not make your car spontaneously explode!

As for the whole stretched tire thing...this is another topic that makes me laugh when I read people's reactions. There's always the die-hard "it's JDM so it's gotta be good, so watch me put 215s on a 10" wide wheel for no other reason than to show off on the internet" crowd, and then there's the opposing "stretched tires are stupid because it's just for show, and there's no performance benefit, and you're going to die when it explodes" faction. What I usually find interesting is that most folks in the latter tend to have no personal experience backing up their claims. And with the former group... well, I guess there will always be people who want to be trendy and internet celebs, but at least they're not hurting anyone or spewing ignorance I guess.

I've run everything from way-too-stretched (for clearance purposes, not to show off anywhere), to way-too-fat (try a 245 on a 6.5" wheel! >HAHA<), and depending on what kind of driving you plan on doing, there's a benefit and drawback to each. For those who cry performance foul, I wonder how many of you truly drive your car on the track with the same wheels/tires you drive on the street. Better yet, how many drive reckless and hard enough on public streets during daily driving that you'd TRULY notice the "performance difference" between, say, a 275 on a 10" vs. a 245 on a 10" wheel?

And let's not even get started about how dangerous stretched tires can be. Again, most people who spout off about how stretched setups can explode at any minute are usually the ones who've never even tried it. Coming from someone who has, let me be honest and say that, I would actually feel safer in a tire blowout situation with stretched tires than "normal" sized tires. IN FACT, I *just* had a blowout 2 weeks ago on one of my cars that had its normal sized wheels and tires on, and I could barely limp down the street to the gas station, and I almost couldn't turn into said gas station once I was there. Oh yeah, and the extra sidewall had allowed the tire to become a nice eccentric CAM, making that 1/4 mile drive all the more bumpity-bumpitily interesting...and it ****ed my bumper up, too. Anyways, with a tire that's wider than the rim, with a big sidewall, once you air out, the tire will want to roll off the rim. So driving anywhere above 5-10mph is like flirting with death, and trying to turn at more than 5mph is almost certain disaster; that tire does NOT want to stay on the rim. With a stretched tire, even when you air out, the tire will actually remain seated, affording you the ability to still safely-albeit slowly-drive along without pulling an OJ in a white bronco. In fact, I've had a situation where I lost most of the inner sidewall of a stretched tire (believe it or not, it even came off and wrapped itself around my hub!), and I was still able to drive along at normal city speeds to a gas station. The car that experienced the blow out the other week? I put the big wheels with semi-stretched, low-profile tires back on

Hmm, and lastly, all the racial comments crack me up the most. Those are actually ones that I've never really encountered on other boards. By the logic of those people, those of you who fix up your Zs/Gs in any way should just put kimonos on and move to Japan and be sex slaves to the round-eyed white man. Utterly hilarious...!

Ah, sorry for the verbose first post.. it's a passionate topic for me

 

I have a another thread that I will have to update later with all those pics. As far as fenders, stock fenders that I rolled--that's it

I didn't want to do any fender modifications. The goal of this build was the fit the widest possible wheels that looked good under the stock fenders.

Damn, this thread got hijacked, sorry to the original poster!

 

In this instance you are showing the same bias towards form that others show towards function. There are many knowledgeable members on here that do in fact track there cars and, as you've seen, are clearly just as passionate about the topic as you.

Tire manufacturers have developed most tread designs and compounds for the function of driving not looking good. The outer tread block for example is designed to be in contact with the road and carry the lateral load of the vehicle in a turn. That function may not be necessary for driving straight down the road but is ensured with proper camber setting so that during a turn, when the vehicles weight is transfered, the tire is sitting perpendicular to the road for maximum contact patch. The extreme camber needed to achieve the look shown here compromises this...thus the comments.

The debate of form vs. function will never end. The show-stoppers push the boundaries of what can be done with a car's appearance while the drivers push the limits of what the car can do while moving.

 

and thats why i take the middle road approach. you can mix a bit of look with performance. light getting super light and flush fitting rims with tires stretched within the manufactures specs.

I dont want a sunken battleship and I dont want my tire poping off on the highway or curbing my rims on a 1/4" rock in the road

 

you should of wore a helmet like I did. that vip z blew my mind also.

 

 

Comments understood. But, did we forget the camber curve? The pictures above were when the car was dumped to the ground. I don't drive on that much camber.

Also, what about my previous posts? EVEN IF I drove my car with that camber and about 1.5" of the tire was off the ground, the remaining contact page is still quite large. You have to remember I am running an 11" wheel with 265mm wide tires.

 

This about sums it up. Why would anyone put tires that are smaller than the rims