Very nice rolling shot potatoe, I can see how it would take you guys that many tries using a rig lol.

Here's me and some boys last weekend at simply clean 4

 

Wheels are up for grabs if anyone is interested.
SSR Vienna Dish EV Steplip (RARE FIND)
19x10-13 (5"lip)
19x12.5 -1 (6"lip)
5x114.3
Asking 3k with tires OBO. Willing to ship at buyer's expense.

 

So i finnally got around to mount my wheels and my suspension. I'm getting ready to order the camber arms now and i was wondering what specs are you guys running front and rear? Wheels are 19x9.5/-3 wrapped in 225/35/19 and rears are 19x11/-5 wrapped in 255/35/19. Maybe ypu guys can shine some light on some of your camber/toe settings. Thanks guys, pics will be up soon once i get everything sorted out!

 

Camber 0
Toe 0

offsets dont require camber with a stretched tire with those offsets

 

what tire sizes can i fit on a 19x10 +0 upfront and 19x11 +0 rear? how would 235x35 and 265x35 fit?

 

Can I get some pics of just the tires on the wheels? I've been contemplating those sizes. I'm wanting to see how stretched out it is. Thanks!

 

Quick question for everyone. I have my stance coilovers installed and just finishing rolling/pulling of the rear fenders however after lifting the tire up to ride height i noticed that the front of the wheels is pointing outwards pretty bad. I have only camber arms installed and am planning on getting the traction arms (spring bucket delete) however i am not sure if i need toe arms also? Here are some pics of progress and you can also see what i mean by the front of the wheels pointing outwards. Any help is much appreciated.

 

you should get someone that knows what they're doing to roll your fenders for you.

 

Believe me the passenger side is not pretty by any means, drivers side is 100 times better. Any advice on the traction and toe arms?

 

i'd say for more than 5* of camber you should get toe arms...

but i'd also say if you're running more than 5* of camber to fit your wheels you're doing it wrong.

 

No not running more than 5*. It's set at about 4* a the moment but like i said it seems like the front of the wheel points outwards. I'm guessing my toe spec is way off hence why I ask about the toe arms am traction arms.

 

When I was slammed on my stances I noticed that its hard to be slammed and keep a low negative camber with 0 toe. That being said the more camber u run the more adjustability u should have with your stock toe arms. U may have to wollow the holes out a lil but you should need arms. Btw why roll fenders to fit a bad toe? Obviously when the toe is fixed the front of tire to fender will have a huge gap.

 

Not rolling/pulling to fit ba toe, it'll fit fine one toe is back in spec. Had to pull fenders since tires were rubbing pretty much the whole way.

 

jose18 on the forums and I cruising around north houston

 

Like I said homie!..i sold you the wheels so i know what to do to fit them..and yes definitely toe arms if you want to adjust them. you should have gone with 245/35 in the rear so you could play better with camber..text me if you need anything else

why always you so negative man? i don't get it. He is not doing it wrong he just never played with aggressive offsets before. This is why we are here..to help all the noobs new to the game not to bash on them and ****ing treat them like **** because you Max-G know it all? please...

It's hard to be slammed and keep low negative camber? hmmm depends how far your pull is...for example
me at .+5 camber running the wheels tomic bought from me 19x11-16 with 285/35


18x12-5 .+5 camber with 275/35


it all depends what you do to your fenders and how much pull you do. nothing is impossible.

 

tomci08 you need the bucket delete arm to ajust your toe.

i have my stance gr plus pro's bottomed out and i have 0 toe and -1.3* camber

 

Lito: I said its hard to be slammed and keep low negative camber with 0 toe. With oem style coils that is... Maybe I should've said that.

I had to obviously notch the toe slot AND remove the eccentric washer so the bolt would move further. I should've bought the adjustable bucket but... Ya

 

i have the SPC rear camber kit, run -5 camber and have 0 toe after notching the hole and using their toe bolts. at one point i was even running -6 degrees with no problems. ill be switching out to SPL soon though with a toe arm instead of the spring bucket

 

Y'all aren't hearing what I'm saying... It's harder to get oem spec toe and camber while slammed with oem style coils and the stock spring bucket. Toe is the issue. The more negative camber to put in the more/easier toe is adjustable. But if you make your camber oem spec with say -1.0... Then you have to do serious notching.

 

I do get what you are saying and you are right. You should have gone with true coils