help? new wheels causing movement
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help? new wheels causing movement
I just replaced my stock 18 with a set of 19 adr m sport 19x8.5 in front and 19x9.5 in the back. When I'm driving past 70 mph, the car doesn't drive straight. I have a slight movement to the right then to left, maybe 3 feet to each side. The wheels were balanced. When they mounted the wheels they removed a bolt screw from each of the front rotors . Has anyone experience something similar? Any suggestions of what the problem might be?
#2
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Id check the alignment. thatd be number 1, what size tires did you use? if they are too wide for the rims, it can track a bit.
I think the rule that they are off is if the car is set going straight, on a FLAT road(most are sloped to the right) and you let it go at 60mph, if it completes a lane change in 3 or 5 seconds, then it is too far off and needs to be recalibrated. tho it shouldnt go back and forth... and 3 feet is a BIG distance to wander.
I think the rule that they are off is if the car is set going straight, on a FLAT road(most are sloped to the right) and you let it go at 60mph, if it completes a lane change in 3 or 5 seconds, then it is too far off and needs to be recalibrated. tho it shouldnt go back and forth... and 3 feet is a BIG distance to wander.
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Don't worry about the bolts that were removed. If you have aftermarket wheels, you have to remove these to get the wheels on. The bolts are there so that you do not rotate your wheels front to back and vice versa. Are you using hub-centering rings, you have to use these with most aftemarket applications.
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I would check tire pressures before anything else. Make sure they are even side to side. I prefer to set the fronts about 4-5psi higher than the rears...for street driving, maybe something like 37 in each front, and 33psi rear.
Then I would make sure about the hubcentric rings...the center bore hole on the wheel should fit snugly when you put the wheel on...there shouldn't be a gap there.
Finally, I'd move on to the alignment settings. New wheels shouldn't really mess your alignment up unless the overall diameter of the wheels is far off from stock...could change the way the car feels quite a bit. If its alignment, my guess would be a toe issue.
Then I would make sure about the hubcentric rings...the center bore hole on the wheel should fit snugly when you put the wheel on...there shouldn't be a gap there.
Finally, I'd move on to the alignment settings. New wheels shouldn't really mess your alignment up unless the overall diameter of the wheels is far off from stock...could change the way the car feels quite a bit. If its alignment, my guess would be a toe issue.
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Don't worry about the bolts that were removed. If you have aftermarket wheels, you have to remove these to get the wheels on. The bolts are there so that you do not rotate your wheels front to back and vice versa. Are you using hub-centering rings, you have to use these with most aftemarket applications.
#7
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ok, yeah you prolly already knew tire size was fine just makin sure you werent squeezin 305s on there or something.
most rims require a ring in the center hold, the hub hole, because the hole in the rim is larger than the hub. altho lugnuts hold the rim in place, the rims orientation on the hub comes from the center, and it needs to be snug. the ring just fills the gap, that way a single rim design can fit all different size hubs. when you put the tire on the car, did the center hole fit SNUGLY around the hub? did you put a little added ring between them to make it snug?
if you were to remove all the lug nuts, could you sorta wiggle the rim around? this is really hard to explain...
but like the lug bolts are not as wide as the holes in the rim, so you could move the rim around slightly unless the rim was tight to the hub. (which it should be)
hope that makes just a little sense.
most rims require a ring in the center hold, the hub hole, because the hole in the rim is larger than the hub. altho lugnuts hold the rim in place, the rims orientation on the hub comes from the center, and it needs to be snug. the ring just fills the gap, that way a single rim design can fit all different size hubs. when you put the tire on the car, did the center hole fit SNUGLY around the hub? did you put a little added ring between them to make it snug?
if you were to remove all the lug nuts, could you sorta wiggle the rim around? this is really hard to explain...
but like the lug bolts are not as wide as the holes in the rim, so you could move the rim around slightly unless the rim was tight to the hub. (which it should be)
hope that makes just a little sense.
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#11
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Now, I think the ADRs are sharp, so don't take this as a slam, but maybe you got a bad wheel or two. Did you have the tires mounted locally, or were the tires/rims shipped already mounted?
If it's the latter, you never know if you weren't there for the mounting and balance. If it's the former, your tire shop would have picked up on an out-of-round rim during the balancing process.
Just an idea.
If it's the latter, you never know if you weren't there for the mounting and balance. If it's the former, your tire shop would have picked up on an out-of-round rim during the balancing process.
Just an idea.
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I had the wheels mount at a locate shop. They tell me it's the wheels but I went to another shop for another opinion and they tell me everything is fine. i'm going to rebalance the tires
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I have the same wheels.... had them for about 1700 miles now...
no problems at all.... but keep in mind for the first couple days your car will "float" a little as the tires find thier "groove"
Mine did what you say yours are but only a for a day or two.
no problems at all.... but keep in mind for the first couple days your car will "float" a little as the tires find thier "groove"
Mine did what you say yours are but only a for a day or two.
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