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Anyone ever have this problem???

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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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Exclamation Anyone ever have this problem???

Okay…I’m running the Volk RE30 19x10 on the front. No tire rub at all!! I am getting wheel rub against the upper arm only when I lock out my steering wheel (to back my car into garage or pull out of parking spots). Because of this, I have started doing multi-point turns to make these very tight turns. I’ve attached a few pics to show how close the wheel is during lock.

Right wheel during left-turn lock: The contact is happening just on the other side of the arm (and vice versa for other wheel during right-tun lock)


Notice metal shaving at bottom of wheel...about as thick as a hair


Wheel bead/rear lip thickness doesn't seem affected...mostly paint taken off:



Right now my solution is to get 5mm spacers for the front…or have the wheels machined a couple millimeters. What do you think?
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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i say spacers first.....machine work of any kind would probably be a big hassle.

From the look of things...1-2mm would be more than enough
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by shift-er
i say spacers first.....machine work of any kind would probably be a big hassle.

From the look of things...1-2mm would be more than enough

Cool, but I guess 5mm is the smallest spacer I can get. Shouldn't be noticable. I really don't want the wheels pushed out, but I guess .2 inches isn't significant. Thanks.
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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The wheel may be hitting the suspension but it still looks cool. Turning is overrated.
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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Is it hitting the lower control arms or the uprights? I dont see how it can run the uprights only on turns, the whole upright assy moves along with the brakes/hub/wheel assy.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie@Performance
Is it hitting the lower control arms or the uprights? I dont see how it can run the uprights only on turns, the whole upright assy moves along with the brakes/hub/wheel assy.
On that note I'll have to go out tomorrow and look at this again. I assumed it was the uprights, but now that I'm thinking about it, you have a point. MMMM...thanks, I'll check that out. Either way, the spacer should move the wheel out just far enough away to solve this right?
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by XTAHZ
On that note I'll have to go out tomorrow and look at this again. I assumed it was the uprights, but now that I'm thinking about it, you have a point. MMMM...thanks, I'll check that out. Either way, the spacer should move the wheel out just far enough away to solve this right?

If its barely touching or extreme minor i think a 3mm spacer shoudl fix that. I prefer a 5mm just for good measures but that's if you can afford to go that far outwards without rubbing on the outside.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie@Performance
If its barely touching or extreme minor i think a 3mm spacer shoudl fix that. I prefer a 5mm just for good measures but that's if you can afford to go that far outwards without rubbing on the outside.
I agree...but who sells a 3mm spacer. I've been looking all over and I've only found a few vendors selling even a 5mm spacer. If I can get a hold a 3mm spacer I'd rather go that route.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:21 AM
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just be aware that there is a critical spacer width before a new stud is in order for safety sake.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by surfcity40
just be aware that there is a critical spacer width before a new stud is in order for safety sake.

Yes thats true, but 3mm shouldnt affect it much. If you can get 5 full turns out of the lug nut its ok.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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You may use something of this sort: http://www.racinglab.com/whmalialwhsp.html

Although im not a fan of non hubcentric spacers i think 3mm is thin enough where the hub bore still protrudes enough to be hubcentric.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie@Performance
Yes thats true, but 3mm shouldnt affect it much. If you can get 5 full turns out of the lug nut its ok.
you're going with "five full turns". K.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by surfcity40
you're going with "five full turns". K.

I'm not sure i quite understand this post. If you can get 5 turns out of the lug nut its considered safe.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddie@Performance
I'm not sure i quite understand this post. If you can get 5 turns out of the lug nut its considered safe.
cool. see, I never heard the "five full turns rule". I'm trusting you on that one.

I always used the torque as opposed to the number of turns.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by surfcity40
cool. see, I never heard the "five full turns rule". I'm trusting you on that one.

I always used the torque as opposed to the number of turns.

No, no, you are still supposed to torque down your wheels to spec as per normal, but just make sure you get at least that many turns out of it, it has nothing to do with torquing the lug nuts down. I mean torquing the wheels down to spec has no real merit if its barely hanging on by a thread or two, you will just end up snapping the stud.
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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Hey guys...I appreciate it! I'm calling racing lab in the morning and getting this taken care of. Unfortunately, this is my daily driver so I'm under the gun to handle this ASAP.

I'll probably order 5mm as well just in case.

Thanks.
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