Curbed my rear Work Mister S1 :(
09-12-2008, 09:01 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by 35oZephyR
Gah, I damn well nearly spilled my coffee when I saw that curb rash.
Tips to folks who find it hard to parrallel park:
A.) Lower the volume on your radio so you can hear once it checks the curb.
B.) Just park further away from the curb and gamble with the parking ticket.
Tips to folks who find it hard to parrallel park:
A.) Lower the volume on your radio so you can hear once it checks the curb.
B.) Just park further away from the curb and gamble with the parking ticket.
09-12-2008, 09:05 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by lgear080
NO NO NO. This can be repaired by yourself. These rims are easy to curb b/c
of the soft metal lip. I cannot replace the clear, but I can walk you through a
simple process to hand refinish the lip. Did you bend the rim at all? or is it just
curb? My process will not repair a bent rim, however you can handily fix a scratch
or some chunked metal. Can I see a picture? Then I will give you the step-by-step.
Post up and we will go from there. Calm down all will be fine.
In my experience ordering a replacement barrel is a virtually impossible task,
and the barrel is PRICEY!
LL
of the soft metal lip. I cannot replace the clear, but I can walk you through a
simple process to hand refinish the lip. Did you bend the rim at all? or is it just
curb? My process will not repair a bent rim, however you can handily fix a scratch
or some chunked metal. Can I see a picture? Then I will give you the step-by-step.
Post up and we will go from there. Calm down all will be fine.
In my experience ordering a replacement barrel is a virtually impossible task,
and the barrel is PRICEY!
LL
09-12-2008, 06:13 PM
#25
i pulled out of car wash like two weeks ago, one i never go to and didn't realize how stupid they were to extend the curb out after the exit about 2 feet for some reason and i started to turn right and just clipped the rear wheel, 
wanted to cry but was so pissed at how this place was designed, i need to fix it. where do i start. It basically looks just like the pics of this wheel damage
wanted to cry but was so pissed at how this place was designed, i need to fix it. where do i start. It basically looks just like the pics of this wheel damage
09-13-2008, 06:30 AM
#27
I don't understand how they can possible make wheels look like new when the metal is deformed, i.e. big indentations / chunks missing from where you hit the curb. I've always been curious about this, but luckily have not had to deal with it yet. In for finished pics..
09-13-2008, 09:35 AM
#28
Originally Posted by sry110
I don't understand how they can possible make wheels look like new when the metal is deformed, i.e. big indentations / chunks missing from where you hit the curb. I've always been curious about this, but luckily have not had to deal with it yet. In for finished pics..
I know for the ones that are lightly scuffed up they just smoothen it out until you can barely see it. If it's too much do they apply some kind of sealer or aluminum?
I'm going to go hug my meisters now.
09-13-2008, 11:00 AM
#29
No call from Sk... So I will clarify the process I used to refurb my wheels.
Firstly, I would like to address Old dirty in between some 1/2nl hands on
pokerstars while I poop my brains out. The crab cakes on my benedict
did not sit well in my lower gi tract. I should also clarify that I am a cheap
*** jew **** and always get the best deals possible on the best parts
I can afford. I bought my 19" meisters through ebay, from a WELL KNOWN
seller on ebay (and round here) for $2500 shipped to my door.. (19"x9.5/10.5
+23/+24 silver on silver SOLD for $2k to a my350z member - hope you like
your rotas. I just look at these parts like they're depreciating assets and try
to own them for the lowest price possible. If you understood how difficult it
is to obtain a properly sized barrel, and then get it installed in MIAMI (where
there are officially 2 or 3 sets of meisters at any given time) GOOD LUCK.
Even the best supplier of work wheels told me a barrel was +/-300$ and would take
about 90 days or more to show. SO... I learned how to properly repair curb on meisters
which I paid CASH for. Cause jews don't do CREDIT.
That said, here is the quick and dirty. This process will permanently remove
your clear coat. If you use my process your wheels will need to be polished
regularly and will not look as PERFECT, however the curb will be eliminated. \
THIS WON:T FIX A BENT WHEEL GENIUSES
Onto the repair -
1. Go to Discount Auto/Advance Auto/NAPA etc.
2. Go to the aisle w/ body finishing products.
3. Select wet sand papers grit 800, 1200, 1400, 2000.
4. Get mothers aluminum poilsh and some microfiber pads.
5. Park car in well lit area where you can sit at the wheel
for about an hour. Preferrably in your driveway at your house.
6. Clean wheel thoroughly.
7. Do not touch curb with your finger/hand, as it can slice you
open easily.
8. Prep sand paper by folding torn pieces into approx. 1/2" x 3-4"
double folded pieces.
9. Tape off the area outside of the curb with blue painters tape.
Do this to avoid damaging uncurbed part of wheel lip.
10. With a spray bottle, wet the curbed area with water.
11. Beginning w/ the 800 grit begin to work the curbed area, being
careful not to destroy the taped portion of the wheel. Eventually you
will be able to work the sandpaper around the lip's curvature. Using smooth
motion continue working the sandpaper until the entire curbed area
appears even, and is smoothed of all bumps (uneven areas, etc.).
This step can take about 30 minutes alone. Keep the area wet, but not
drenched and be patient. If you do not eliminate the curb with the
800 grit, the other grits will not take out significant disturbance to the
surface of the metal.
12. Repeat process with the other grit levels, in order moving up. Keep the
area wet and be patient spending at least 10-15minutes. Do not move back
with the levels unless you want to go back to step 11...
13. At 2000 start with water... after 10 minutes use the mothers polish.
When the area appears completely even take over with the microfiberpads
and polish the wheel with as much force as you can muster.
14. Clean polished lip with water, and you're done (remove tape too)
This is not a science, it is defiinitely a craft. This process is intimidating
as the wheels are pricey. If you're not comfortable with figuring the details
out, go get the wheel professionally refinished. If you're not interested in
getting gouged for $100-$150 at every turn, try out my process..
Best of luck and will post flics of my +12 tes soon (and yes. I got them so
cheap your eyes would bleed).
Firstly, I would like to address Old dirty in between some 1/2nl hands on
pokerstars while I poop my brains out. The crab cakes on my benedict
did not sit well in my lower gi tract. I should also clarify that I am a cheap
*** jew **** and always get the best deals possible on the best parts
I can afford. I bought my 19" meisters through ebay, from a WELL KNOWN
seller on ebay (and round here) for $2500 shipped to my door.. (19"x9.5/10.5
+23/+24 silver on silver SOLD for $2k to a my350z member - hope you like
your rotas. I just look at these parts like they're depreciating assets and try
to own them for the lowest price possible. If you understood how difficult it
is to obtain a properly sized barrel, and then get it installed in MIAMI (where
there are officially 2 or 3 sets of meisters at any given time) GOOD LUCK.
Even the best supplier of work wheels told me a barrel was +/-300$ and would take
about 90 days or more to show. SO... I learned how to properly repair curb on meisters
which I paid CASH for. Cause jews don't do CREDIT.
That said, here is the quick and dirty. This process will permanently remove
your clear coat. If you use my process your wheels will need to be polished
regularly and will not look as PERFECT, however the curb will be eliminated. \
THIS WON:T FIX A BENT WHEEL GENIUSES
Onto the repair -
1. Go to Discount Auto/Advance Auto/NAPA etc.
2. Go to the aisle w/ body finishing products.
3. Select wet sand papers grit 800, 1200, 1400, 2000.
4. Get mothers aluminum poilsh and some microfiber pads.
5. Park car in well lit area where you can sit at the wheel
for about an hour. Preferrably in your driveway at your house.
6. Clean wheel thoroughly.
7. Do not touch curb with your finger/hand, as it can slice you
open easily.
8. Prep sand paper by folding torn pieces into approx. 1/2" x 3-4"
double folded pieces.
9. Tape off the area outside of the curb with blue painters tape.
Do this to avoid damaging uncurbed part of wheel lip.
10. With a spray bottle, wet the curbed area with water.
11. Beginning w/ the 800 grit begin to work the curbed area, being
careful not to destroy the taped portion of the wheel. Eventually you
will be able to work the sandpaper around the lip's curvature. Using smooth
motion continue working the sandpaper until the entire curbed area
appears even, and is smoothed of all bumps (uneven areas, etc.).
This step can take about 30 minutes alone. Keep the area wet, but not
drenched and be patient. If you do not eliminate the curb with the
800 grit, the other grits will not take out significant disturbance to the
surface of the metal.
12. Repeat process with the other grit levels, in order moving up. Keep the
area wet and be patient spending at least 10-15minutes. Do not move back
with the levels unless you want to go back to step 11...
13. At 2000 start with water... after 10 minutes use the mothers polish.
When the area appears completely even take over with the microfiberpads
and polish the wheel with as much force as you can muster.
14. Clean polished lip with water, and you're done (remove tape too)
This is not a science, it is defiinitely a craft. This process is intimidating
as the wheels are pricey. If you're not comfortable with figuring the details
out, go get the wheel professionally refinished. If you're not interested in
getting gouged for $100-$150 at every turn, try out my process..
Best of luck and will post flics of my +12 tes soon (and yes. I got them so
cheap your eyes would bleed).
Last edited by lgear080; 09-13-2008 at 11:04 AM.
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