YES!!!

When I took my Ro_Ja wheels apart I've called many upon many companies and vendors to find out the torque specs for the bolts. The answer I got from Rays was that they can not disclose the specs but I can ship my wheels to them and they can do it for me! NO thank you! The cost of shipping and labor--$$$.
What I ended up doing was using blue thread locker and torquing the bolts to what I felt confident with and thought was right.
It's been a year and NO problems.

 

Nice! Thanx for the input everyone. I will probably end up doing it like this if I cant find the original torque specs. Thanx again

 

I have the same problem with my Iforged. Some of the original clear is starting to flake, I'm assuming the previous owner used an unapproved cleaner on them. But really, who knows it could just be wear and tear, they are around 5 years old now.

I want to get them refinished, but...to ship them some place to get disassembled properly, then ship to where they would get powdercoated or painted, all = $$$! I would rather find the specs and do it myself, then take the wheels to wherever I get them refinished, but Iforged won't even go as far as to tell me the offsets of the wheels much less the torque specs! So frustrating!

 

I don't know why i kept my mouth shut about it but paintball guns are anodized. It's not the cheapest thing but I these companies that anodize these paintball guns would probably do the wheels unless the container they dip the stuff in is too small for the wheels.

Edit:

Just got off the phone with FDM which is pretty popular company that does anodizing for paintball guns.

A clear anodize is just the anodizing without the color and that they wouldn't be able to do it but other companies that do bigger stuff would.....hmmm

So does anyone know of a company that anodizes bigger parts?

What's cool about this is that you could probably have the people who annodize put a light amount of whatever color you want into the clear and make a clear anodize with a hint of blue, red, grey or w/e u want.

 

Thats some good info! I'm going to call around here tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanx again everyone

 

CCW discloses torque specs. They have it posted on their website. I will go hunting.

Edit: BAM!! http://www.ccwheel.com/files/technical/wheelrepair.html

that just happened.

 

i used about 27-30 lbs of torque

 

i used about 27-30 lbs of torque on my GTF after that the bolts start to strip..it was a b*tch taking it apart and putting it 2gether considering that the GTF's have like more than 20 bolts on each wheel

 

There is a place in palm beach gardens off blue heron blvd. that said they do a lot of work on annodized wheels. To re-annodize the wheels he said they would have to strip the current annodization then repolish the lips and after that annodize them again. All together it would cost about $1000. To annodize them it would only cost $200 but he said they charge $100/hr for polishing, that sounds like the bulk of the $1000 pricetag

I'm going to call around and see if I can find anymore info.

 

I'd bite the bullet and have them painted or powder coated. Thats what I'm doing with my HRE's. Also considering to refurbish my wheels to original it would have cost me about $2200. Just a note HRE has also discontinued anodizing any of their wheels unless you pay them $$$.

 

http://www.embee.com/

Just click on their process listing and you will see all the different types of coating they perform.


My thoughts on trying to determine the torque range is to break the bolts loose (one at a time), then re-torque them with a torque gauge to determine the average torque required. This shouldn’t require much effort to do since the bolts are already near or at their required torque range.

Another option is to determine the type of fastener used and from that you should be able to determine the shear ratings. These little fasteners should require a ****-ton of torque to keep them in place…maybe 20-25 lb-ft of torque unlike the lug nuts which require ~80 lb-ft of torque.

 

I had mine done at a body shop and he told me the spec was 32 pounds.

 

BUMP!!! Anyone know where to buy these allen head bolts/nuts? I just broke a couple and need some asap! Thanks.

 

^^^^^ I'd like to replace some that are showing signs of rust. sub'd

 

Glad to see these developments, I've been sub'd to this thread forever hoping for updates. So the general consensus is 27-30 ft lbs it seems?

 

Does anyone know where to find true titanium hardware?

 

I used 28lbs but then had to lower it to around 20 after i snapped 3 of them. I called a certified Volk dealer and they dont sell them. Im having a local shop to check if they have any bent Volks that they dont need. Anyone know where to get these types of bolts?

 

why not just take torque wrench and put on bolt and see what they are torqued at? whats so hard about that?

 

u cant be serious... right.... right?

 

Update: Well luckily for me my local tuner shop was nice enough to dig up some old bent up Volks for the bolts. The bolt is only 10mm so it shouldn't require alot of torque. I would say that 20lbs would be more than adequate.