I'm taking apart my my GT-7's to get the lips repolished and the centers powder coated. I have my Z set up black on black now but I think I'm going to go gold this time around.

So my question is, is there anything special I need to do when taking apart/putting the rims back together? Do I have to torque everything to an exact spec or can I just throw them back together and tighten them as tight as possible with my hand?

 

ALWAYS TORQUE to specs! you will regret it otherwise!

 

Torque to specs, end of discussion. Be careful not to scratch your newly polished lips when reassembling.

 

So Volk 2 piece wheels arn't welded together?

 

Funny how Volk does not give out torque specs....

 

^^ lol go figure!

 

Thanx for the responses so far, as you can tell I'm new to this.

So does anyone have the info that I need? What are the torque specs for the gt-7s?

 

and the GTS while we're at it...I've been looking to do the same thing this winter...

 

Throw me in on this...
My GT-C's are looking AWFUL

 

Basically what I have found is that:

You just better hope that the shop knows what they are doing. I couldnt find torque specs anywhere for my challenges. Volk finds it a reliability issue by giving them out.

 

Could you use a torque wrench to remove and figure out a nice round about median??

Reverse math stuff right there.. lol

 

Yes and no, part of the problem is that oxidation/aging/dirt etc will cause the bolts to "stick" when coming apart, which will require more torque than they were initially installed with. Using this value may result in the bolts coming loose in the future, and using too high of a value could result in warping/shearing. It is best to obtain the actual torque values if at all possible.

 

You could try emailing rays and beg for the specs...

 

Just get torque specs from any 3 piece wheel manufacturer.

 

I wonder if thats like emailing hell for ice??? Anyone try yet though...

 

be sure to *carefully* tighten them, I've seen them reassembled and the finish on the bolts was ever so slightly scratched from the allen key, they will rust like a **** if that finish is marred.

I've had friends break those bolts, they will snap. I dont know if they ever found replacements, I think they had to find alternatives thru the local bolt/fastener company.

 

should they be loctite'd upon reassembly?

 

when new? probably not.. but when reusing a bolt, in an application like that, I would for sure. I'd used blue/med at a minimum. But, I have not done mine yet, so I dont have any first hand knowledge, just what I've read/heard. I would imagine there are alot of SoCal shops that do this type of 2pc rays work everyday

 

I thought this also being in Florida and seeing volks everyday nearly. But, the problem is that the lip to be "re polished" is a little different from doing any ordinary wheels since the lip is anodized cleared. So you would have to find a shop that will strip the clear and re anodize the lip, then clear it again. I looked for a week and came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it. If I had to do something, I would either polish them and leave the finish raw and just polish them everyday. Or find a place that knows how to chrome the correct way. The few guys on here that have done that had them come out looking great, and with chrome, there is almost no maintenance.

 

I'd want to black chrome them but really, I dunno.. chrome will flake, is heavy, and does weaken forged wheels. Chrome is an option, but not a perfect solution either.

You can't anodize like that in the US because of lead I believe... the process/materials used to duplicate the OE finish is not legal here.