After going to a few tire shops, dealerships, machine shops, and hardware stores I have finaly managed to find a way to mount the tire pressure sensor. And to do it economically (not with time though). All of the R & D though looks like it may pay off....The sensor is mounted right against the wheel and is actually more secure than the original set up.
Did I mention it's removable? With just a flathead screwdriver and a 12mm wrench (same tools needed to install.

Now for the big question...Will it work without being used as the valve stem???????

As my Car is in Los Angeles getting one Hell of an audio install done I'll have to wait until this weekend to try out my handi work.

If it does work, I'll take more detailed pics and write out instructions of how to do it and post them here (though I haven't decided on making several kits and selling them as I really put in alot of time to figure this out).

 

yep.. done many times now. enjoy it!

 

Looks great! Can't wait for the info!

 

So this method will work? if it's true, then where can we buy the band?

Thanks.

 

http://www.hosexpress.com/clampsandt...gearclamps.htm

 

hey, whats with the hole in the middle of the rim?

looks good tho. whatever gets the job done.

 

Let me know how it works out. My GT-C's are on order, so I have a little bit of time before i have to start worring about this. That looks like a great way to do it tho. If you ever want to sell a kit or something, let me know. I'll be needing to do something when the wheels get here.

-DrCold

 

Do you have to remove the stem in the center of the valve? I imagine you have to since that's how it may SENSE the pressure?

 

The hole in the middle of the rim is where the valve stem that cam with the wheels goes.

As for the bands, I went to an industrial pipe and supply store where I bought a kit. It came with 50' of hardened stainless steel bands (you'll need tin snips to cut it, it'll snap your wire cutters) and a bunch of connections. Cost around $70.
They did sell kits with a lesser grade steel that were less expensive but were not very pliable and were very brittle. So I opted for the good stuff. They also sell higher end stuff but you need a to buy or rent a special tool that does permanent banding (used for attaching signs to light poles, etc), this I felt was one step too far.
The hardest part was finding a bracket for which to attach the TPS to the band, knew exactly what I wanted but was difficult to find in the size I needed. I ended up using steel plywood spacers bent into the shape I wanted, works perfect and mounts the sensor right against the wheel, no space at all.

I spoke with a tech from Nissan today as long as the sensor is intact (needs the valve stem valve core which tire guys remove to get the tire to deflate faster). And it needs to be mounted as close to the wheel as possible (the sensor is not made to transmit vary far, the tech said I may have to have them recalibrated once installed), inside the tire of course. But doesn't matter where inside just as long as it's next to the wheel (meaning it does not have to be near the valve stem).

NOTE: Make sure you label which TPS came from which wheel!!!!

 

thanks for the detail info..

Can you take a closeup picture of the bracket/tps sensor? I am trying to figure out how it mount to the band.

Thanks!

 

Step 1: Cut the band the desired length (or you can custom order the exact lenght you want, I just bought the do-it-yourself kit).

Step 2a: Making the bracket: For this I went with a 5/8" plywood spacer. (see pic below)

 

Step 2b: Bend the lower tabs on the spacer to fit the curvature of the wheel. And bend one of the upper tabs down so that on one side of the spacer the upper and lower tabs almost touch.

 

Step 2c: Run the band through the spacer. Make sure you run the band between the upper and lower tabs, even on the side where they almost touch.

 

Step 2d: Remove the nut (12mm wrench) from the TPS and guide the valve stem through the raised tab on the spacer. The replace the nut and tighten down. You'll notice that it is a pretty tight fit, as you tighten the nut, the whole thing becomes tighter on the band. This is do to the angle of the TPS locking the bracket to that spot on the band.

 

Step 3: Wrap the band around the wheel and tighten. The TPS should be almost completely flush against the wheel and nothing should be able to move at all.

 

Sorry about the blurryness in some of the photos, my camera doesn't like to focus on small items....

 

ahh, that's the trick! thanks very much with the graphic details. I will give it a try when I get my new wheels

keep us updated after you mount the wheels...

 

UPDATE: They work!!!

 

did you have to get the sensor re-calibrated?

 

Haven't checked the sensors against a tire guage yet....
If they are more than 1 or 2 lbs off, I will....

 

Very sweet! That looks damn good.

I'll be doing this same setup when my GT-C's get here. Thanks a million.

 

Speaking of sensors.. I've got some up for sale now in the classifieds section, PM if interested. Thought I'd throw in a shameless plug

 

are you selling these kits?
how much do i have to pay you to make a set for me?
thanks

 

....before I go through the work -- you do have to remove the valve stem and leave it out? Right? (The question is dumb, I know, but I don't know how the TP sensor works.)

 

The sensor and valve stem are one piece, I had them replaced with standard valve stems on the stock wheels.

The kit is fairly simple to make, however I would need several people's interest in it in order to invest in the materials to make for sale.

 

You can count me in on a set. Hopefully my GT-C's will be here in a month or 2.

These seem pretty simple to make, but then again, im just too damn lazy.

 

The sensors fit the GTC, why go through all that trouble just to add weight!!

 

Hi,

What your doing does work, this is what I had to do on my 2002 corvette. I had set of 20" HRE wheels put on and we had to do the same set up. Make sure you use some 3m double sided tape along with the clamp!

 

What is to stop this setup from rotating? Accelerating, Decelerating, just plain driving with all the viberations/gyrations involved how long will it be before things have changed just slightly enough to be out of balance? You are just relying on the friction of the band to keep this setup from moving along the groove..... This thread is old enough for some feed back, Is it still working????

 

why not just epoxy them in place?