Problem: VDC automatically kicks in and makes car jerk
RE> I tried this today and I applied acceleration after it started to jerk, and it kept jerking (not as hard) and did let me accelerate.
If the car won't accelerate, the TCS component of your VDC is activated and kills power. The only time I've seen this happen is when the front tires are taller than the rears.
RE> Question: If VDC is kicking in, could there be a potential that my rear end is trying to lock up? If so, should i find a corner that it kicks in, and before the corner, turn off my vdc and see what happens? Or does that seem like a recipe for disaster?
If you turn VDC off, the car will probably drive normally without the jerking or hesitation you describe. It's not dangerous to turn VDC off (many Z's do not have VDC), but you lose a safety feature.
--Spike
If the car won't accelerate, the TCS component of your VDC is activated and kills power. The only time I've seen this happen is when the front tires are taller than the rears.
RE> Question: If VDC is kicking in, could there be a potential that my rear end is trying to lock up? If so, should i find a corner that it kicks in, and before the corner, turn off my vdc and see what happens? Or does that seem like a recipe for disaster?
If you turn VDC off, the car will probably drive normally without the jerking or hesitation you describe. It's not dangerous to turn VDC off (many Z's do not have VDC), but you lose a safety feature.
--Spike
Once VDC kicks in, applying gas won't really help. It's already either cutting power or applying brakes. Usually the brake application is just for an instant. The power cut usually lasts for about 1 second.
Here's a question for you - is it just cutting power or is it applying the brakes? If it applies the brakes, you can tell by the noise it makes and the vibration you can feel in the pedals.
Here's a question for you - is it just cutting power or is it applying the brakes? If it applies the brakes, you can tell by the noise it makes and the vibration you can feel in the pedals.
^^ What's interesting is that he reports that the car will accelerate,even when he is getting the "jerking" he describes (which I assume is ABS).
He said: "I tried this today and I applied acceleration after it started to jerk, and it kept jerking (not as hard) and did let me accelerate."
That's puzzling.
--Spike
He said: "I tried this today and I applied acceleration after it started to jerk, and it kept jerking (not as hard) and did let me accelerate."
That's puzzling.

--Spike
^^ What difference would that make?
I've swapped my front and rear OEM wheels (8x18") to even out the brake pad discoloration, and had no problem.
And...What should he measure with a ruler?
I apologize if I am missing your point, but I don't see what the wheels have to do with this.
--Spike
I've swapped my front and rear OEM wheels (8x18") to even out the brake pad discoloration, and had no problem.
And...What should he measure with a ruler?
I apologize if I am missing your point, but I don't see what the wheels have to do with this.
--Spike
^^ What difference would that make?
I've swapped my front and rear OEM wheels (8x18") to even out the brake pad discoloration, and had no problem.
And...What should he measure with a ruler?
I apologize if I am missing your point, but I don't see what the wheels have to do with this.
--Spike
I've swapped my front and rear OEM wheels (8x18") to even out the brake pad discoloration, and had no problem.
And...What should he measure with a ruler?
I apologize if I am missing your point, but I don't see what the wheels have to do with this.
--Spike
Front axle: 18x8.0 (1) and 18x8.5 (1). 225 mm tires.
Rear axle: 18x8.0 (1) and 18x8.5 (1). 245 mm tires.
^^ So... You are asking if the tire shop moved the front wheels with the OEM 225/45-18" summer-performance tires to the rear? And... mounted the new Continental DWS's on the front?
Not likely, but certainly possible... I guess we shouldn't take anything for granted.
Still wondering what you suggest measuring with a ruler.
___________________________________________________________
EDIT: I should also mention I get the problem you describe where one front wheel is mounted in parallel with a rear wheel inadvertently moved to the front, but the correct tire sizes on front and rear. That’s very unlikely since the mounting bolt prevents doing this with OEM wheels, and the brake pad dust on the fronts provides a good clue as well. And, there would have been no reason to remount the fronts.
--Spike
Not likely, but certainly possible... I guess we shouldn't take anything for granted.
Still wondering what you suggest measuring with a ruler.
___________________________________________________________
EDIT: I should also mention I get the problem you describe where one front wheel is mounted in parallel with a rear wheel inadvertently moved to the front, but the correct tire sizes on front and rear. That’s very unlikely since the mounting bolt prevents doing this with OEM wheels, and the brake pad dust on the fronts provides a good clue as well. And, there would have been no reason to remount the fronts.
--Spike
Last edited by Spike100; Sep 3, 2010 at 03:20 PM.
the fronts are indeed 18x8, and rears are 18x8.5.... I turned off the VDC and hit a few twisties.... same (ish) problem. Slip light comes on, still having problems unless accelerating through a corner. Going to drive to Nissan tomorrow and see if I can pick their brain a bit without getting charged. Still looking for ideas.. I'll snap pics tomorrow of the tread on each, and try to get better videos.
Is there anything specifically you guys want in the video?
Is there anything specifically you guys want in the video?
Turning VDC off should disable the TCS component; you should not see the SLIP light when VDC is off.
If I’m correct, either you are not actually turning VDC off, or VDC is malfunctioning. I need confirmation from other members here. Help me out here guys.
--Spike
If I’m correct, either you are not actually turning VDC off, or VDC is malfunctioning. I need confirmation from other members here. Help me out here guys.

--Spike
OK… your point is well-taken, but dustin15brown does not have a Base model. He has a car with VDC, and he is having a problem.
So… our focus is on Dustin’s problem with VDC, and we are looking for a solution.
The current dilemma: dustin15brown reports that he is seeing the SLIP light even when VDC is off. That seems to be very irregular. I am asking for someone who knows more than I do to help here. We need advice on whether or not the SLIP light will illuminate when VDC is off.
Can you help with an answer to this question? Your help is greatly appreciated.
--Spike
So… our focus is on Dustin’s problem with VDC, and we are looking for a solution.
The current dilemma: dustin15brown reports that he is seeing the SLIP light even when VDC is off. That seems to be very irregular. I am asking for someone who knows more than I do to help here. We need advice on whether or not the SLIP light will illuminate when VDC is off.
Can you help with an answer to this question? Your help is greatly appreciated.
--Spike
I'm inclined to think that Spike's original guidance about all season's on the rear and summer tires on the front is the cause. That is a setup that most people just wouldn't think about putting on--significantly less traction on the powered wheels, but in inclement weather, the wheels responsible for steering input would have less grip. The car may read that it is slipping even when it is not, and during a turn in which you are applying throttle this effect would be magnified. Also remember that due to significantly different tread patterns and composition, they will heat and cool at a different rate. All of this means trouble for VDC. If not running all four the same, at least try to match performance categories and goals.
My wife's ZR had taller fronts than rears for a bit (I did it knowingly!), and when the VDC would kick on the slip light, there was NO power for seconds; sometimes many seconds! But it was VERY sensitive. I agree that maybe his rears are slipping ever-so-slightly, but the VDC should be doing squat with the button turned off.
OP - does the "VDC" light illuminate when you turn it off with the button?
Sorry to take this post back from the death, but does anyone solved this problem?... Having same issue but no Slip light... just very sensitive VDC after changing rear tires...
I had all 4 tires 235/45/18 and no problem at all !!
now 235/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear.
Fronts are used with 1/2 tread still, rears are 1 week old.
I had all 4 tires 235/45/18 and no problem at all !!
now 235/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear.
Fronts are used with 1/2 tread still, rears are 1 week old.
Sorry to take this post back from the death, but does anyone solved this problem?... Having same issue but no Slip light... just very sensitive VDC after changing rear tires... I had all 4 tires 235/45/18 and no problem at all !!
now 235/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear.
Fronts are used with 1/2 tread still, rears are 1 week old.
now 235/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear.
Fronts are used with 1/2 tread still, rears are 1 week old.
My 03 touring is doing the same thing and I have brand new tires all the way around 225/45 front 245/45 rear and I don't even know where to begin on what the issue is. It does it mostly on bumpy/inclined roads. Not really sure at all
Having this problem with my 350Z. I've been having it for months now and cannot fix.
SLIP and VDC light are both on and cannot be turned off.
When the car turns on no lights appear; you must move for them to illuminate. After driving about 15ft-20ft the SLIP and VDC illuminate and will cause a jerking of the wheel if the car is not in a straight line of motion when the lights turn on. The vehicle then begins operating normally with no traction control functionality (meaning I feel no power loss when slipping and frequently will take the car drifting and find no issues besides the initial jerking when the lights illuminate after turning on the car and moving).
Brake pads have been replaced.
Tires are non-stock and have spacers HOWEVER this light was on long before these wheel changes were made so it is unrelated to wheel specs.
My belief is that there is a shortage in the cable to the VDC button above the gas cap lever. This shortage causes VDC to disable and triggers the SLIP light to turn on as well.
The reason I believe this is the problem is that this happened once to the car after I had opened up the panel covering this cable. I simply turned the car off, opened the panel and checked my wires were not being pinched, closed it back up and turned the car on and the lights never re-appeared. After this encounter, everything was fine for about 3 months. Then, I opened this panel again to install a new clock spring. After finishing the install and reinstalling panels I experienced the same ordeal with my VDC+SLIP illuminating and they have been on ever since.
Ideas? I don't know how to fix or test my theory.
SLIP and VDC light are both on and cannot be turned off.
When the car turns on no lights appear; you must move for them to illuminate. After driving about 15ft-20ft the SLIP and VDC illuminate and will cause a jerking of the wheel if the car is not in a straight line of motion when the lights turn on. The vehicle then begins operating normally with no traction control functionality (meaning I feel no power loss when slipping and frequently will take the car drifting and find no issues besides the initial jerking when the lights illuminate after turning on the car and moving).
Brake pads have been replaced.
Tires are non-stock and have spacers HOWEVER this light was on long before these wheel changes were made so it is unrelated to wheel specs.
My belief is that there is a shortage in the cable to the VDC button above the gas cap lever. This shortage causes VDC to disable and triggers the SLIP light to turn on as well.
The reason I believe this is the problem is that this happened once to the car after I had opened up the panel covering this cable. I simply turned the car off, opened the panel and checked my wires were not being pinched, closed it back up and turned the car on and the lights never re-appeared. After this encounter, everything was fine for about 3 months. Then, I opened this panel again to install a new clock spring. After finishing the install and reinstalling panels I experienced the same ordeal with my VDC+SLIP illuminating and they have been on ever since.
Ideas? I don't know how to fix or test my theory.









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