Ouch!

 

Equal impacts and the forged stays intact, the forged wheels will still be trashed to the point of being undrivable. So it really doesn't matter. Both will be wasted, neither wheel can be used to navagate the car.

Also remember stock wheels are cast on most of our cars, and are of the same quality as a knock off wheels. Basically edam near every car on the street that in not on steel wheels is running cheap cast wheels.

 

not quite correct

There are several different casting techniques, and a wide span of quality control. Nissan has far more at stake, and far more wheels on the road, than a replica wheel reseller does. Just like anything else in life, how something is made has everything to do with how long it lasts

http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...ts-in-a-wheel/

 

Yes that's exactly what I said but as you continue to drive after the wheel damage incident... would you like an intact wheel or a shattered wheel. Common sense may prevail on this one.

For your second topic... for someone who races a lot, you don't know anything about wheels, materials, and construction so I won't waste my time on that one.

 

That sucks.

And Formula D NJ crash was crazy happened right in front of me. Watched the wheel literally get ripped apart, but like you said he slammed into the wall and couldn't get off of it.

 

Kinda ot, but I wonder what happened to this Camaro's wheels, let alone his brakes?

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Just wondering guys, considering the car hits the same road hazard.......would you rather damage a high end wheel wheel (it may hold up but won't be repairable in most instances) that cost $7-800 bucks and then wait 3 to 8 months to receive it or have a cast wheel and pay $2-300 bucks and receive it in 2 weeks?

*Disclaimer* I'm not standing up for knockoffs here, rather budget wheels in general.

 

There should be no price tag on personal safety. tire/wheel/car is replaceable, people are not. I'd take the non repairable $700 wheel (hell the $7000 wheel) that stays intake ANYDAY over the failure that happened to a knock off wheel. primary reasoning is the car's weight is still supported on four wheels, each axel can still rotate and move. Even with the tire deflated, you can still steer it. Wheel barrel separation from spokes is a major safety concern, that is basic loss of control in any situation, unless you think spokes and rotor disk running into asphault is considered control..

 

Understood Cheston, but the chances of that happening are very slim (not in Varrdogs case though...). Now, I'm not saying to go out and buy any ol wheel (do some research) but there are tons of budget wheels out there that are up to and if not surpass oem specs which are more than suited for everyday driving.

 

Too bad there is always a price tag on personal safety. I'm sure there are safer wheels out there than any mentioned in this thread... but they're either too expensive, or don't look good. The price tag that's too high is not always monetary... but vanity as well.

 

Depending on the brand of wheel, some are completely forged & some have an outside lip that isn't forged which might crack during impact like the picture of the race car posted. My set of CCW's are made the same way. It's a 3 piece wheel with a forged face, forged barrel, but the inside lip is not forged which is sensitive to cracking if I go off track & capture debris etc.

The replica BBS wheels cannot be replaced with a new barrel since they are not true 3 piece wheels like the real BBS wheels. The reps are 1 piece (heavy) wheels unlike the real BBS 3 piece which are lighter & much stronger.

 

i love my 19 inch RPF1's on my 225/35 stretched negative camber'd aggressive setup...
havent broke/bent anything yet.

 

This is all true facts but you can't replace the barrel on a LM either. The lip and barrel are welded so they're essentially 2-piece wheels. I have a set of Forgelines that came off the Z that did flips at Mid Ohio a while back... 3 faces are good and the rest are destroyed but they stayed intact throughout the whole thing.

 

This is a nooby question, but like you all said it's about safety so I better ask. How do you know if it's a knockoff because even the knockoffs have a brand name and all. Sometimes I see wheels for 700$ and I see another wheel that looks exactly the same for like $250. So i guess that's a knockoff, but how can I be sure about other wheels?

 

WAT?

 

Sorry, when I said knockoff I meant replica.

Also what do you guys think about www.elementwheels.com

 

Most wheels have some kind of identifier on them.

 

Center section of a real BBS wheel has several engravings as well as engravings/etched logos on the lips.

The real BBS's are also alot lighter.

Joel, did I miss anything?

 

Don't buy wheels that aren't at least built to some standard like TUV or JWL. Even lots of the cheaper brands (like Enkei for example) build their wheels to these specs. I'm guessing all of these rep companies popping up don't do any testing on their products at all.

 

Nope your pretty spot on, the way you can tell if they're real are:



1. PCD, Size, Weight dimension, wheel ID and Offset are all engraved around the centercap.

2. JWL and "BBS" is engraved on the faces as wheel.

3. The LM rivets(Wheel bolts) are true to only LM's... the length is different so if you see overly long wheel bolts they're after market but the rim is a true LM(no known multi piece replica). OEM LM rivets have "BBS" on them.

4. OEM barrels are not sealed together but welded. So if you see a adhesive bead on the barrel... it's not an OEM barrel. Custom barrels are the only way you can change the barrels by the way.

Useless trivia:

If you see a LM with a Gold "BBS" centercap(assuming it was never changed and bought that way), it was constructed by BBS Japan. All Forged BBS wheels from Japan have a gold centercap... Euro and US models don't, they come in silver. LM's that came from Japan are extremely rare to see for sale now a day. If you guys check Yahoo Japan Auctions they have tons of RGR's,RSGT's, RS' for sale but very very rarely do you ever see a LM or LMR.