Andrew350

SO My current set-up:
Front wheels and tires is 18x9.5 15mm backspacing, running BFG Gforce Comp2s in 255/40. Car is lowered about 1" on Swift Spec-R springs, and camber currently sits at 1 degree.

These things rub! I recall seeing lots of people running lowered 275's with the same backspacing and not rubbing. Its only certain deep bumps. But more 'dips' in the road or corners at freeway speeds. Has anyone ran in to this issue and what was your solution. I DONT want to pull my fenders, modifying the backspacing on the wheel doesn't seem like an option either. Im thinking of grabbing 255/35's since they are a full 1" smaller diameter. I have a base model so traction control isn't an issue.

Thoughts/input? Thanks.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

what year is your car? and how bad is it rubbing?

i had almost the same setup on my 08.... i was just rubbing on the fender liner screw though with a +23. i had buddies with the de's that ran +15 in the front no problems.

i did notice that the sport comps were wider than the hankook v12s i had previously

stogey420time

iTrader: (1)

You should try running -2 cambers. Factory alignment specs is -1 so another camber degree shouldn't be too bad, just make sure your toe setting is back to zero.

I encountered the same thing and didn't like to idea of raising my car, so I rolled my front fender and remove the top screw holding the plastic fender line to make it work. Bumps and dips won't rub however I still rub at times going up on inclined entrances.

I'm on 19x9.5 +22 offset 255/35 front and lowered ~1.3 inches btw.

MicVelo

Both Trav's and Stogey's advice is solid - even though I personally wouldn't do a -2-deg up front just for the sake of saving the tires - however minor it is. (My personal pref only, it's still good advice.) Plus, something to consider: do you even have adjustable camber components up front that will allow you to dial in -2?

Given the fact that it's not happening other than when the suspension is compressed, I'm thinking more basic.... how are the shocks? (Not mentioned.) If the shocks are bad, you might be binding (or close to full compression loading) the springs.

A couple of other nitpicks.... You do NOT want to run a tire so much shorter simply due to how that will affect handling overall. That much size differential (stagger) in height will alter the car's steering feel - and will tend to bias the car towards understeer. (If you lower the heights all the way around and keep the size differential RATIO the same, not so much of a problem but then you have an unnecessary gap, defeating one of the reasons you lowered in the first place, right?)

That's the reason to NOT change tires to fit the car. You fix the car to fit the optimum tire underneath it. Sounds weird and counterintuitive but that's how it should be done to maximize handling/ride.

And finally - just to set the record straight and so there's no issue if you talk to a tech on the phone about something - you use the term "...15mm backspacing". That's incorrect. That +15mm is the OFFSET of the wheel - the distance that the mounting surface is away from the centerline of the wheel.

"Back spacing" refers to the distance from the mounting surface to the INSIDE EDGE (or rim) of the wheel. Example: On a 0mm offset 10" wheel, the backspacing will be exactly 5.0" (and likewise adjusted for offset, positive or negative.) Just semantics....

Mic

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

First I would take care of the fender line screw , pull it out, cut it down to a little over 1/8 inch , install and pull the tab against the fender as flat as possible. If it still runs slightly, add a hair of camber, maybe bump up to -1.3 and you will be good.

Andrew350

Car is an 08.

I'll take a look at this fender screw when it stops pouring outside. But its a pretty audible scrape, sounds like hitting the fender to me. Cutting down this screw will allow to move the inner fender itself a bit?

Shocks and springs are brand new. Adjustable front arms, which is why its at -1 camber.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Most people don't have front arms and will have slightly more camber. That is whi they have no issues, if you wanted to run less camber, you would technically want a wheel with a higher offset like +22ish

Andrew350

Im running the Enkei Raijin wheels. Only offered in +15, and plus +35. I briefly considered buying two of the +35's for the front and running 10 spacer to kick them out a bit, but figured finding a local buyer for just two wheels would be impossible.

MicVelo

That wasn't inherently clear. Stock camber range up front goes as "low" as -1.3deg on - needless to say - stock hardware.

nizmo_0385

iTrader: (5)

Fender liner screw. Im 19x9.5 et 22 on 255 35 19 and 0 zip none no rubbing with 255 and stock camber arms..

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

I run a 17x10 and 255/40/17 tire dropped on hotchkis springs, no rubs

Andrew350

Update, Bending the tabs those screw fit in to fixed the issue entirely. I noticed the heads of the screw were getting a nice polish when I removed them.

Hard to believe it was only that little interference that made that much noise.