Elastic Strap tutorial
08-24-2012, 07:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Elastic Strap tutorial
I couldn't find instructions for replacing the elastic straps other than the Nissan TSB. The TSB says you have to remove the top from the frame to do it, but I was able to do it without going through the trouble.
Here are the tools and materials you'll need:
1. (2) Nissan part #97150-CE01B (each comes with one strap, 4 rivets, and two metal plates)
2. Compact drill
3. Rivet tool http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
(The swivel head rivet tool also sold at Home Depot looks cool, but has crap reviews)
4. Drill bits, one smaller than the rivet barrel, and one about the same size.
5. Small punch or nail set
6. Small soft hammer
7. Linemans pliers or similar
Step 1:
Open the top to this position:
Step 2:
Make sure your drill and rivet tool are small enough to get to the rearmost set of rivets, open/close top as needed:
Step 3:
Place a piece of cardboard or something to protect the top.
Step 4:
Carefully drill all four rivet heads with the smaller bit, then the larger one. The rivet head will come off on the end of the bit. Then remove both plates and the strap.
Step 5:
You be left with the nubs of the rivets sticking out of the bows:
Use your drill bits and pliers to cut and squeeze the nubs until they're hollowed out enough to punch into the bow with your hammer and punch. The rear pair of rivets takes a great deal or caution or you'll slip off and need a new top. I had the drill running fairly slow, with my thumb against the side of my not-so-sharp bit.
Step 6:
After punching the rivet nubs into the bows, you'll want to get them out so they don't rattle. The rear bow has a small hole that they'll fit through. I just tapped the bow with my rubber hammer until they fell out. The front bow has a rubber plug in the end. Remove it and tap the bow until they fall out of the end. Replace the rubber cap.
Step 7:
Assemble one strap, with one plate and two rivets. Feed it over the rear bow and insert the rivets into the holes. Using your rivet tool with a tight fitting nose, place the tool over the rivet and firmly press down to compress the rivet, plate and elastic against the bow, then squeeze the handles until the mandrel sticking out of the first rivet snaps off. This took me two pulls. Remove it from the tool and move onto the next rivet.
Step 8:
Do the same in the front, trying to hold some of the tension off of the strap with your free hand:
And you're done with one side:
Step 9:
Do the same thing again on the other side of the car, then clean up all the metal shavings. It's a good idea to put a towel or something down, because the metal shavings go everywhere.
Here is a comparison of one of the old straps with one of the new. The new ones are double thick, and are a good deal shorter than the old ones:
Here are the tools and materials you'll need:
1. (2) Nissan part #97150-CE01B (each comes with one strap, 4 rivets, and two metal plates)
2. Compact drill
3. Rivet tool http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
(The swivel head rivet tool also sold at Home Depot looks cool, but has crap reviews)
4. Drill bits, one smaller than the rivet barrel, and one about the same size.
5. Small punch or nail set
6. Small soft hammer
7. Linemans pliers or similar
Step 1:
Open the top to this position:
Step 2:
Make sure your drill and rivet tool are small enough to get to the rearmost set of rivets, open/close top as needed:
Step 3:
Place a piece of cardboard or something to protect the top.
Step 4:
Carefully drill all four rivet heads with the smaller bit, then the larger one. The rivet head will come off on the end of the bit. Then remove both plates and the strap.
Step 5:
You be left with the nubs of the rivets sticking out of the bows:
Use your drill bits and pliers to cut and squeeze the nubs until they're hollowed out enough to punch into the bow with your hammer and punch. The rear pair of rivets takes a great deal or caution or you'll slip off and need a new top. I had the drill running fairly slow, with my thumb against the side of my not-so-sharp bit.
Step 6:
After punching the rivet nubs into the bows, you'll want to get them out so they don't rattle. The rear bow has a small hole that they'll fit through. I just tapped the bow with my rubber hammer until they fell out. The front bow has a rubber plug in the end. Remove it and tap the bow until they fall out of the end. Replace the rubber cap.
Step 7:
Assemble one strap, with one plate and two rivets. Feed it over the rear bow and insert the rivets into the holes. Using your rivet tool with a tight fitting nose, place the tool over the rivet and firmly press down to compress the rivet, plate and elastic against the bow, then squeeze the handles until the mandrel sticking out of the first rivet snaps off. This took me two pulls. Remove it from the tool and move onto the next rivet.
Step 8:
Do the same in the front, trying to hold some of the tension off of the strap with your free hand:
And you're done with one side:
Step 9:
Do the same thing again on the other side of the car, then clean up all the metal shavings. It's a good idea to put a towel or something down, because the metal shavings go everywhere.
Here is a comparison of one of the old straps with one of the new. The new ones are double thick, and are a good deal shorter than the old ones:
Last edited by patrickoneal; 08-24-2012 at 07:34 PM.
08-25-2012, 02:58 AM
#2
Great tutorial!
Thanks
Brings to light that having a roadster,or any car new or old with a convertible
top is gonna have some maintenance issues.I've had my fair share of soft tops,
most were sportscar/manual dropped.But maintenance on oiling of hinges,fittings,gaskets was ongoing.With newer motorized tops,there are more
parts to go wrong.Converts are best for DIY owners.
Thanks
Brings to light that having a roadster,or any car new or old with a convertible
top is gonna have some maintenance issues.I've had my fair share of soft tops,
most were sportscar/manual dropped.But maintenance on oiling of hinges,fittings,gaskets was ongoing.With newer motorized tops,there are more
parts to go wrong.Converts are best for DIY owners.
10-29-2012, 04:49 PM
#6
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02-02-2013, 07:35 AM
#7
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Thanks to this thread and RangerZ's notes, got a little preventive maintenance done in just over an hour.
Here's a pic of the rubber cap on the end of the bow.
The old bands were really stretched out. Here's the better of the old ones, next to one of the new ones.
And here's a pic just for fun.
This forum is GREAT - I've gotten so much invaluable information here over the years.
Thanks for sharing, Patrick and Ranger and everybody else!
Here's a pic of the rubber cap on the end of the bow.
The old bands were really stretched out. Here's the better of the old ones, next to one of the new ones.
And here's a pic just for fun.
This forum is GREAT - I've gotten so much invaluable information here over the years.
Thanks for sharing, Patrick and Ranger and everybody else!
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02-02-2013, 08:10 AM
#8
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The top wouldn't retract when it's cold on my '06 350Z. I read why here. Told my dealer about it. They found out it was the straps (I read that here). Had the dealer fix it while it was still under warranty (30 days).
This thread, and this forum, have been awesome. Thanks again guys!!
This thread, and this forum, have been awesome. Thanks again guys!!
04-26-2015, 04:04 AM
#9
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elastic strap issues
My 2006 with 30,000 miles just started having an issue with the top not retracting all the way. The dealer diagnosed this as a strap issue. Is this what happens when the straps are stretched out too much? I purchased the straps from the dealer and they wanted $330.00 to replace them. After looking at this, I shall attempt it myself. Thanks!
04-07-2017, 08:34 AM
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Many thanks for this post and all the contributors on this forum. Having bought my first Z, I have found a great pool of knowledge here.
Am replacing the elastic strapps on my '06 roadster now. Will offer a couple of suggestions that helped me.
Used a compact right angle attachment on my cordless drill which made it so easy to drill out the rearward rivets on both sides.
Second, there may be some valid reason to source the elastic band and rivits from the factory but I didnt go that way. The elastic band can be found in many places, as can the rivits, and for a small fraction of the dealship costs.
Am replacing the elastic strapps on my '06 roadster now. Will offer a couple of suggestions that helped me.
Used a compact right angle attachment on my cordless drill which made it so easy to drill out the rearward rivets on both sides.
Second, there may be some valid reason to source the elastic band and rivits from the factory but I didnt go that way. The elastic band can be found in many places, as can the rivits, and for a small fraction of the dealship costs.
06-03-2018, 10:24 AM
#15
New Member
Resurrecting this old thread but this is very good information. My car is 2006 and pretty much very good condition. I will do some preventive maintenance one of these days. I was looking at the straps with top closed in my car and they appeared to be on their way out. I will check local dealer to see how much the straps are. Thank you for the HOW TO as I was thinking this should not be very difficult but now it does seem like it is not.
06-11-2018, 10:50 AM
#16
New Member
Thanks to this thread and RangerZ's notes, got a little preventive maintenance done in just over an hour.
Here's a pic of the rubber cap on the end of the bow.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1120wl.JPG
The old bands were really stretched out. Here's the better of the old ones, next to one of the new ones.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1117wl.JPG
And here's a pic just for fun.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1121wl.JPG
This forum is GREAT - I've gotten so much invaluable information here over the years.
Thanks for sharing, Patrick and Ranger and everybody else!
Here's a pic of the rubber cap on the end of the bow.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1120wl.JPG
The old bands were really stretched out. Here's the better of the old ones, next to one of the new ones.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1117wl.JPG
And here's a pic just for fun.
[IMG]http://www.abousquet.com//z/elastic bands/IMG_1121wl.JPG
This forum is GREAT - I've gotten so much invaluable information here over the years.
Thanks for sharing, Patrick and Ranger and everybody else!
LOVE your seats!! Where did you have those done if you don’t mind my asking?
Thanks!
07-26-2018, 07:50 PM
#17
New Member
I was to afraid of poking through my top with a drill or other tools. I decided that I was going to make some straps out of black velcro and elastic that would loop completly around the two bows. Them I could use the velcro to adjust the tension more or less if needed. Tonight I was in Dollar Tree and happened to walk down the aisle where the keep cell phone cases and cords. They had black arm band cell phone holders for when your running exercising. I bought 2 and removed the stitching that held the phone pouch to the elastic and velcro arm band. went out to my Z and put both on over the existing worn out straps tightened them to what I thought would work. To my my surprise my top went down with me having to push the band back while the top was going down. Total cost for the fix $2.12 with tax and 5 minutes to remove the stitching from the phone pouch and a five minutes to put them on the car and test the top! Don't know how long they will last but for $2.12 who cars i will buy another set and do it again!
07-27-2018, 05:56 PM
#19
New Member
I was to afraid of poking through my top with a drill or other tools. I decided that I was going to make some straps out of black velcro and elastic that would loop completly around the two bows. Them I could use the velcro to adjust the tension more or less if needed. Tonight I was in Dollar Tree and happened to walk down the aisle where the keep cell phone cases and cords. They had black arm band cell phone holders for when your running exercising. I bought 2 and removed the stitching that held the phone pouch to the elastic and velcro arm band. went out to my Z and put both on over the existing worn out straps tightened them to what I thought would work. To my my surprise my top went down with me having to push the band back while the top was going down. Total cost for the fix $2.12 with tax and 5 minutes to remove the stitching from the phone pouch and a five minutes to put them on the car and test the top! Don't know how long they will last but for $2.12 who cars i will buy another set and do it again!
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