Just like the title says: I have a "service engine soon" with no start no crank due to no gear indicator selected, the gear box is blank.

Before the car stopped running there was a significant loss of power and transmission (auto) clunking, I got code P1274, P1283 and u1000 slip and traction control came on,

 

Could be a lot of things causing your issue. Without more context it's impossible to troubleshoot over the internet.

U1000 means you have a canbus communication issue, basically a potential break in the wiring or a faulty module.
Both P1274 and P1283 are related to fuel/air ratios. This could be caused by a bad MAF or cam/crank sensors.

Things to consider...
What have you done to the car? (Aftermarket parts? Bolt-ons, stereo, anything to do with wiring, that kind of thing).
Have you modified or tinkered with anything recently?
How many miles are on the vehicle? What year?
Has the vehicle been regularly serviced (Oil and transmission fluid changes, etc)?
Has the vehicle been involved in any kind of accident?
Has the vehicle been subject to water/flood damage?

Many of these symptoms could be related to cam and crank position sensors or your maf sensor. If you have a higher mileage vehicle these are common issues. The U1000 code is odd and could be old, sometimes this is set during a battery replacement or temporary disconnect of a major ground during maintenance. I would do some basic checks of grounds and battery terminals. Make sure the charging circuit (alternator) is working and voltage levels look good. Then I would clear all codes and see what comes back.

If you decide to fire the parts canon, make sure to go with OEM sensors!

Otherwise, I think your best option is to have the vehicle diagnosed by a reputable shop with experience on Nissan/Infinitis.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

same here , I bought the car cheap cause of a burnt valve . I Changed the engine , I started it up after putting a new crank sensor . It ran good no check engine lights . I drove it a few miles here and back . Then took it on a 30 minute drive . Hit a bump and idled up a little . Stopped at a stop sign and pulled out. I had a little hesitation then tach dropped I thought it died . But didn’t shifted a little hard then pulled in parking lot . It idled fine like nothing was wrong . Turned it off came back 45 min later crank with no start . Changed crank sensor cause was no fire .. fans came on soon as you turned on switch . We ran a scan wouldn’t pick up nothing at first . I changed ipdm . Then no crank at all . They supposed to be a fail safe mode that when Tom is shot it kicks fans on .well I had unplugged the transmission all together and then we ran a scan and it picked up all modules except tranny where it was unplugged. But still was in lock mode for some odd reason . U turn the switch on and security light stayed on constant . They’re a test u can push the door button 10 times cut switch off and on real fast to test ipdm . That got the fan and security light off .

So now new starter , battery , another ipdm, remanufactured TCM , checked all grounds cleaned grounds . I got a u1000 and po183 . With a ECM on the way . Still no crank at all . Very lost

 

something might have come loose when you hit that bump. check the O2 sensors near the cat and check the maf sensor and connector. and the throttle body connector.

 

@T_loco

To me, this honestly sounds like a case for damaged wiring somewhere. Anytime a full engine swap/replacement is done, there's a chance for a wire harness to get pinched or damaged if you're not extremely careful. The same is true after the installation. If you don't route the harness properly through the engine bay, there's a chance the wiring can get pinched, crushed, or stretched (snapped). You've skipped proper diagnosis and went straight to firing the parts canon, which can lead to more problems. I won't deny the possibility of bad modules or sensors causing problems like this, but it's rare. Usually a no crank or crank - no start issue can be traced down to something fairly simple. But seeing as you purchased the vehicle used for cheap because of a "burnt valve" I suspect there's more to it. The previous owner could have messed with a lot of things and also fired the parts canon then simply lied about the state of the vehicle. This happens all the time in the used market, especially with older 350Zs and G35s that have passed through a bunch of different owners.

Note: Replacing an ECM isn't a simple plug and play process. The ECM needs to be programmed to work with the BCM, otherwise the anti-theft system will kick in and lock you out from starting the vehicle. Naturally you need to also make sure you get an ECM that's paired to your specific engine/trans combination, ideally you get one from a vehicle with matching year and trim package.

Anyway, I would recommend taking it to a professional who understands how to troubleshoot a CANBUS with live data and a scope. I wouldn't replace any additional modules or sensors until a more in-depth diagnosis can be done.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

new valve body and programmed. Basically it was cause car had sit a year I guess . Putting new cooler and flush out bottom or radiator.

 

Interesting, so the transmission valve body pack was not communicating properly with the PCM/ECM? Glad you got it sorted and thanks for following up! I'm happy to hear my theory was proven wrong!
Cheers!
-Icer

 

did you need to replace the valve body or could you have just reprogrammed the tcm. Having issues lol

 

well this is what happened on the end . The plug on transmission had some corrosion and ended up shorting out . Bad connection. I ripped the whole motor and trans back out . The plug on trans looked bad from heat and corrosion. I kept the tcm . Just went and bought a jdm used trans with 40 to 50 thousand to match engine mileage . Solved that problem . Then the cam sensors and crank sensors all matching and couldn’t be basic auto zone cheap ones . Runs good now