ohmicide

Hi, first post here! just got an '03 350Z Touring and I have a couple of questions about the Bose speakers

the car came with a pretty decent aftermarket HU (Kenwood DDX318) and I was thinking of temporarily using it's built-in amp since Autopilot on the stock Bose amp is killing me and I've read that people have gotten mixed results from the microphone mod

basically I'm trying to figure out if it would be worth bypassing the Bose amp and using the HU's built-in amp (22 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) but I can't find any info on the exact specs of the Bose speakers to see how well they would match or if the line cables are good enough to run a powered signal

I would also like to install a new sub where the stock Bose one is but I can't find any info on how much the stock power and ground cables can handle or whether the line signal can be routed to come straight out of the HU so it's controllable from there (signal is coming off the front speaker right now)

any help would be greatly appreciated!

ps. eventually I will be upgrading the speakers, installing a dedicated amp and rewiring the whole thing, so I would like to do the least work possible in the mean time specially since my free time is pretty limited ATM

pps. is anyone still making sub enclosures that fit where the stock sub is? pretty much all the links I've found are dead

SIR_pierre

Is this enough?

ohmicide

that helps thanks, been doing my research but I can't seems to find out what's the max RMS on those speakers is

anyone know at least what the actual RMS on the amp is? I'm guessing something like 15 watts rms at 4 ohms x4?

ohmicide

also, I've decided I'll be re-using the stock wiring for the speakers since I'm not planning on running more than 40 watts rms per channel and I deffinitely don't want to be drilling through the molex

my plan right now is to install a 5 channel amp and use the Bose speakers temporarily (minus the sub) so I want to have an idea of what the speakers can handle so I don't blow them by accident

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Personally I believe anytime you bypass the Bose amp, it makes expansion so much easier. Keep in mind when you go to replace the door speakers, you'll need spacers or the aftermarket speaker magnet will hit the window.

For your question regarding prefab enclosures, you can contact this guy if you want and inquire. He's a vendor and I've dealt with him in the past. If at any time you are unsatisfied, you can ship the product back for a refund...

http://www.zenclosures.com/350z-s/43.htm

Spike100

The Bose system in the Z is proprietary and doesn’t “play well” with components from other manufacturers. The Bose speakers and amp are rated at 2 ohms. Car speakers in general are rated at 4 ohms.

The internal amp in your Kenwood DDX318 is rated at 4 ohms. That is not compatible with your Bose amps and speakers. You probably have some type of aftermarket adapter (PAC is a common adapter) allowing the Kenwood H/U to operate with the Bose components. Without an adapter you would have difficulty achieving adequate volume with a 4 ohm aftermarket H/U connected to a 2 ohm Bose system.

The Bose external amplifier is tiny; I’m guessing but believe the speakers won’t handle much over 50 watts. The non Bose Clarion setup has speakers that handle 40 watts.



If you disconnect the Bose amp, you still need the PAC adapter because your Kenwood’s 4 ohm internal amp won’t drive the Bose 2 ohm speakers correctly. You will have very little volume, even at maximum output.

To solve the problem and get rid of the Bose interference, swap out the 2 ohm Bose external amp and the 2 ohm Bose speakers, replacing with 4 ohm equipment. If you don’t have the ca$h for an external amp, go with some aftermarket coaxial speakers (decent ones are $100 for the set) that you drive with the Kenwood’s internal amp. This will provide better sound than the Bose speakers and Bose amp.

BTW: There is no need to replace the existing speaker wiring. That’s a lot of effort and you won’t gain anything.

Hope this helps,

--Spike

ohmicide

that amp definitely has to do, the speakers can stay termporarily though

thanks for the heads up about the spacers, I have seen them around but I wasn't aware that they were absolutely nescessary

and I've been looking onto the zenclosures, I almost settled on the "type 2" enclosure but today I realized my dog really likes that spot

thanks for all the info, I'm actually going to be putting in a 5 channel amp, the Kenwood X700-5 has caught my eye and it's 50 watts rms at 2 ohms per channel so it should do for now

Spike100

^^ The Kenwood X700-5’s internal amp will provide plenty of output.

Additional Comment: Save the OEM Bose front door speakers. You don’t want the speaker itself, but you can cut out the speakers’ mounting rings and use this as a spacer when mounting your aftermarket speaker. That saves some $$’s, and provides the best spacer you can get for the Z.

Bama J

Before you consider pushing the Bose speakers with an amp, please take a good look at these pics. These are the 6.5" door speakers. They are a complete joke. The magnets are about the size of a half dollar.





I just bought my Z back in Feb. Immediately replaced the headunit with a Kenwood DDX470 and last week I replaced the door speakers with these Fosgate components for $99.


Unbelievable difference in sound. All I have left to do is replace the crap Bose sub with something decent and I'm done. I'm not even gonna fool with replacing the rear speakers, I just faded the balance about 2/3 ways to the front and let the RF's do their thing. That being said, I'm not looking to win any competitions here, just have decent sound. The Z is my daily driver. I'm 38 and I've been fooling with car audio since my first car at 16.

I see no reason at all why those factory speakers are going to sound any better with an amp pushing them. If you only have the funds to do one or the other right now, I'd go with replacing the door speakers first.

ohmicide

I know they're not going to sound better with a different amp but I'm taking care of the sub first and using a 5 channel amp to kill two birds with one stone, new speakers will go in after

Bama J

^Gotcha. I went the opposite and did the door speakers first, sub is next. But we'll both get there. I just couldn't believe how wimpy those crap speakers were when I pulled them out. They're crap even for OEM grade speakes.

ohmicide

you'd be surprized though, sound wise they're about on par with Hyunday's Dimension systems, my dad has a Sonata and a friend of my sister's has a Veloster, I've driven both and played my music on both, neither compares to my dad's old FX35 with the stock Bose system, I was expencting something close to that in the Z but oh well, challenge accepted

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Hmmmm, not a bad idea. I'm assuming a Dremel to cut it out?

Sidenote: When I gutted out my Bose system, I replaced the doors, tweets, and read 6.5's at the same time with Infinity Kappas. I put them on a class-A Rockford amp 4x200 @ 4ohm. The difference it made was incredible. It sounded better with just those speakers than the entire Bose system did, even with the 10 inch sub...

ohmicide

the Kappas go down to 45hz so I don't doubt it haha

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Yep, I love those speakers. It was a really good investment. I've had the system for almost a decade now and it's still going strong. When I gutted out the spare tire well and built an "in-floor" enclosure with an FI 12 in it, that fully completed the system. I purchased another Class-A amp, which was a mistake. I should have bought a Class-D amp, but you live and learn. I just have to keep a 6 inch computer cooling fan on it now and in the extreme Texas summers it will overheat at shows if I play it for more than...let's say 2 hours. But the amp for the sub runs like a champ. It's 2x400 bridged to 1 output. Bench tested at a bit over 900watts. Let me see if I can dig up some pics...

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Found it: https://my350z.com/forum/audio-build...-rf-power.html

ohmicide

wow, incredible work, almost makes me want to pull out the spare tire!

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Thanks man. Took a lot of time and loving to get it the way I wanted. Very discrete. It sounds crystal clear and hits extremely hard. I can't even imagine how it would hit if it were ported. It currently makes the steering wheel shake and the rear wiper bounce off the glass. LOL. Suprising no rattle. I sound deaded the entire hatch and doors...

Spike100

Wow! That is among the best (if I just say best… I’ll invite trouble) SubW installations I’ve seen for the Z.

The Z isn’t an easy Interior for sound, especially a SubW. You describe (with great pics) a good solution. --Spike

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Thank you sir...