guitman32

iTrader: (15)

+1 mine also leaking slightly for quite some time, no PS issues aside so just left alone.

Rebuilt racks are notorious for leaking/issues, they are a pretty debated subject.

How much fluid are you losing?

dragon11689

iTrader: (3)

I'm not losing much if anything at all. So I must be having other issues that are causing the car to sway when going over bumps or switching lanes between reflectors. If I drive aggressively, the car feels like it's overshooting too far to left or right. Alignment is spot on and I've checked the suspension up and down. I can't quite put my finger on it even after having a few other people including techs look at it. It sucks because my car was amazing on turns after upgrading different suspension components and almost perfect alignment. Then one day, that all changed and handling went to sh*t. -_-

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Start looking at bushings, tires can cause this and alignment. Also a change in rake/ tire sizes does this. My rake is altered and my car sits on a square tire combo, very twitchy.

I lose about 1/8 inch on the reservoir every six months, not much.

Lt_Ballzacki

I read through your entire suspension post because I want to do my suspension right the first time. I soon realized there is a lot more that goes into the coilover upgrade than just the coilover.

I am on sort of a fixed budget but cannot afford to drop 4k all at once (this calculation can be found here). I am wondering at what height you can drop the z33 without needing camber adjustment while still keeping it in spec. I am thinking about upgrading the coilovers and giving the car a moderate drop until I have the money to slam it (camber/bushing upgrades).

When using true coilovers (you convinced me) are the toe links necessary. I guess the main question is do you need all these "extras" (refer to the linked spreadsheet) absolutely necessary to install the coilovers without causing extra wear/damage,or is it better to save up and install it all at once? If so are there people you can refer me to, to get them for cheaper (new).

Thanks for your work helping the newbs like me do it right!

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

All cars are different , some rear camber arms after 1/2 inch drop , others about 1.5 inch and you can still get it in spec.

Toe arms for true coilovers are not needed, the spring bucket can be run without a spring in it.

Lt_Ballzacki

- That's what I figured. Are the aftermarket SPL's just for extra strength or what? Is there a clearance issue when you get real low?

- I take it you would just say do it all at once then?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Better way of adjustment for everyone , and more adjustment on the slammed cars.

VenomGT9

iTrader: (1)

From one LT to another, save up for all those "extras" and do it right. You'll have way more room to play with and fix it to where you want your ride to sit...your tires will thank you. Front/rear camber arms, toe bolts for a modest drop, even some bushings and it will handle like a dream.

Lt_Ballzacki

Ya thats probably what I will do. Just broke af rn. Thanks.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

sup ladies!

RyanNISMO

iTrader: (1)

okay, so read up to post #60 and didn't see anybody ask, so what are your opinions on your k sport coilovers? how long did they last you? suspension is being done next year so I have time to save up and do my research. also, how well are they for autox and track days? are the spring rates soft enough that you wont lose it if your car touches a slight bump around a turn? I didn't like that they were only single way adjustable but it is what it is when youre on a budget.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I still got them, drove the Z to work yesterday...for me, the ksports took A LOT of tweaking and adjusting preload to get them to be "good", not great for track use....

remember set ups are different for different types of racing..for drifting, i got them heavily preloaded and the car handled and felt great...

They are great for a daily driver, occasional autox'r, etc with out doing much to them, they arent so great on valving, they have in what i like to call 3 settings...turned all the way down, middle and turned all the way up....you wont notice any changes in valving anywhere in-between.

I understand budget........i was on a budget when "we" bought them:
True story - my wife (we) bought them for me as my wedding gift! - at the rehearsal dinner i opened the box, pulled one out and she gave me a kiss! everyone - old foggies there were like WTF are those??? "those are for his car"??? rolled eyes etc...

Those k-sports can blow tomorrow and ill mount them on the wall, i wont ever get rid of them....

I could probably pull out a box of pictures and find a pic of the ksports on the gift table at the rehearsal dinner.

-J

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Big problem with K Sports is travel, they really lack rear travel. The fronts are perfect but the rear sucks. To make a car handle you need droop and bump travel, you can only have one, or an insuffient amount of each

stascom

If I'm swapping springs for a softer set, should I keep the ratio of rates between front/rear the same? I'm going from 14/12 to 9.5/8. Does that sound good?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Most dampers can only handle a 2k change in either direction. I would move the 12k you have to the front and get a 10k rear.

Many of us change the front to rear spring ratio to fine tune our cars handling, if you don't want to change that aspect, make your change and keep the ratio the same

350Z.

i have a simple question. I read everything in the beginning about what we need to lower our Z, but in some part i want to know what is the benefits of them?
1- I have 19' wheels with 225-35 front tires and 265-30 rear tires
2- I have coilovers and I dropped around 2 inches all around
3- Recently, I bought Rear SPC Camber kit

The question is what is the benefits of that Rear SPC Camber as well you mention to have a camber kit in front and rear. I got the rear but I want to understand why should i put them .
Note*: I am interested in drifting and I want to make my car daily/ drift car. not crazy about drifting just lil sliding and fun.


I got Coilovers

MicVelo

Why did you buy the camber set up if you don't know what the point is of doing so? Seriously.

OK, that aside, have you had an alignment lately? What are the numbers? When you read the alignment report and see that the camber figures are out of whack (or just notice that the inside shoulders of your tires look like slicks), you'll understand why you need camber compensation devices.

First "drift car", then "not crazy about drifting...." Ummmm.....

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Dugan Dugan Dugan

350Z.

I respect your knowledge and answered , but technically I didn't find an answer for my question.

I didn't done alignment yet, I will do it after i install my camber kit.

MicVelo

I answered your question. The benefit of having the SPC camber adjustment is so that you can adjust your camber..... back to spec or whatever spec you/your alignment tech wants to set it to for the purpose of making it suitable for a given style of driving, be it hills, street, track, etc.

Without it, you're likely running NON-optimized camber settings and working/wearing the tires unnecessarily.

By the same token, who's to say you're not AT proper alignment now without having the alignment checked? Maybe you DON'T need the camber adjusters....

My point is to have your alignment checked at every stage of the mod game. That's the only way to know for sure if you need or don't need anything more.