goracerx

Had an alignment with the new tires but was told do to lowered stance they couldn't get everything to factory specs. They did get toe to 0.00 and forget the rest. This time it's the center uneven wear more than the inside corners. I love the Michelin Pilots but I can't buy two sets a year. Luckily i'm not driving long distance to work anymore.

I have the Ichiba front spacers and although I don't like the red color the camber kits are cheap.

The SPL Pro's are eye candy and have the most range for alignment. I could be wrong but I don't read they use spacers, which I don't like. But 2.5x the price.

If the Ichiba's won't do the trick, then i'll end up replacing them with the SPL and spending double.

What do I need to correctly fix the alignment for the Swift spring drop the first time? Do I need the rear camber bars also? What about caster?

goracerx

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...Whiteline.aspx

Dang, SPL, HKS coliovers and new Pilots. Maybe I should just get a Porsche?

goracerx

OK, so I broke down and bought the HKS IV GT coil-over set. I will list the springs and maybe the shocks afterwards. From what I've read for the 370Z, the height is pre-set for 3/4" drop which is the max to be able to re-align to factory specs. So, I may not need the SPL kits as I will retain the 3/4" drop.

Unfortunately I chose the Swift Spec-R springs because I thought the rates for the street set were way too soft for the roadster, but the Spec-R drop is way too low for my taste on a GT street only car.

NFAC

I have the HKS Hipermax III with SPL midlinks. 9kg springs front and rear feels pretty good. I thought about changing them to 10Kg but we of right now I'm good. HKS makes great products, good decision!

goracerx

I might just have to dial up the rear a few numbers to compensate for the roadster weight.

Are you lower than 1" ...or why did you still get the SPL camber kits?

NFAC

Yes I'm pretty low, but not slammed. The reason I got the midlinks was because I wasn't able to get the Camber and toe back to stock settings. In order to get 0 rear toe I would have to be around -2 camber without the midlinks. I want to get everything closest to Zero as possible because as of right now my car is mostly used for commuting, and I commute crazy far. Also once my car is a dedicated track car I won't have a issue with getting the settings I need. SPL is expensive but u can't beat the quality. Since you're not going lower that 3/4" you should t have a problem with getting the stock settings back.

goracerx

Now is the part where I wish I would have just paid a shop to do it (frack me). The white springs have paint scratches and my guess is from the spanner wrenches. Bend the tabs and insert the bolt from above? ...it's a roadster.

HRMoneyPit

It should be a pretty easy install.


did you go with SPL?

goracerx

Had to take a knap (dang, i;m old). There's some bendable tabs after you remove the rubber cone. It sounds like bend them out but not touching the inner tube of the height adjuster assembly. There's one hole that lines up and one screw. The other hole isn't accessible. This must be to hold in place and keep from rotating when turning the height adjusters. Hopefully I won't need the SPL, since I will keep stock height settings. I like 2 finger gap for street. The Swift is less than one front and one rear. Hey, I might finish both rears today.

goracerx

First corner = 4 hrs, D'oh! Does the pointed bolt go on the shock or spring tray?

Second corner = 1hr - WooHoo!

Tip:

1. Do shock only first (remove/install).
2. Brace spring tray with jack. Do Spring second (Remove/Install).

goracerx

Looks like the 370Z has improved suspension related components because the thread I attached mentioned retaining the preset HKS height meant the alignment could go back to OEM settings. Not the case with the 350Z (even my 08).

Camper still could not be set front or rear. Everything else, except front/right caster (unknown why) was back in spec after the alignment.