sways350

The last inch or 2 of pedal travel sometimes doesn't come all the way back up. Sprayed some silicone on it an that helped for a day or 2. Its kinda annoying is there something you guys would recommend to lube that pedal shaft to keep it from sticking? Also is this a sign that the clutch is on its way out? It never slips.

2000atlanticgt

iTrader: (5)

Have you checked the clutch hydraulic fluid level to make sure you do not have a small leak or tried to bleed the clutch hydraulic line to see if you have any air in the system? That is where I would start first.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

There are several recent "clutch peddle will not return" threads. It is NOT a peddle problem.

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

What year is your car?

I ask b/c I am a recent 07 350z owner and ran straight into the clutch slave cylinder issue. Pedal would sag as you describe during a cold morning. 2 weeks owning the car and I pulled the transmission and fixed it myself.

I wrote a DIY instruction how to modify the pedal assembly to allow greater adjustment and can promise you the spring in that pedal assembly is more then enough if one of the sleeve bearings was worn out.

sways350

Its an '05. What's the link to your diy mod?


It doesn't do it all the time and if you lift your foot off quickly it pops back and sometimes I have to flip it back up with my foot....


You're in jupiter? That's cool I'm in wpb just a few miles north of the airport.

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...tch-pedal.html

Yeah shoot me a PM, maybe I can take a look at the pedal thing for you sometime this week.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

05 its going to be gunk in the master, I got the parts from Fontana Nissan and rebuilt mine for $15 . Simple and easy

sways350

Ian99rt: thanks for the offer. I'm gonna start with something less complicated than your diy. I can weld but have no access to one.

Terrasmak: I checked the fluid at the clutch master cylinder; its quite brown... So I'm gonna change the fluid. You mentioned "gunk" in the master as well as some cheap parts? What exactly did you do/ replace?

Thanks guys for your advice.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I rebuilt the master, not needed but its $15 for a rebuild kit from Nissan. The important part is a removed the master and cleaned it out, since you have to pull it apart to clean it, just install the new guts (rebuild kit). Reassembled everything, bleed the system with fresh Dot 4 and no problems since.

My 03 has never had the problem, but the fluid gets bleed all the time. For some odd reason, 05's seem to have this problem a lot.

pez1111

iTrader: (2)

You might want to use a fluid with a higher boiling point like Motul RBF 600. Some times the fluid boils in the clutch line as it passes close to the exhaust pipes. This leeds to a soft spongey pedal that some times doesn't return..
Just a suggestion as this is more of a common prob in hot summer months!!!
I'm in OZ, we are in summer so maybe not the issue you are having.

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

I believe you might have replied to one of my posts last summer as well. I didn't change anything yet because since we're in winter here I've had no problems (thus far). Next spring I will definately rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Do you think it's worth changing the slave cylinder and upgrade the hydraulic line as well while I'm underneath there having to bleed the system?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Just pay the extra $15 for the slave rebuild kit, its cheap. Braided line, if you have an upgraded clutch or headers/HFC's that run near the stock rubber line. If not, it good for another 5 years.

nissanZdriver

I had this same issue after I bought my 05 Z. I did alot of researching on this and people recommended changing the clutch fluid. So I did and it was fine for a week. Then the pedal was sticking again. So i did some more searching and I found out that my car had a "clutch orifice" between the master cylinder and slave cylinder. From what I read its there to slow down the clutch fluid flow back to the resivour to reduce clutch chatter or whatever. So I cut the piece of sit out, I bought clutch line fittings a union and flared the lines. I basically eliminated the "clutch orifice" and thats it, I never had a issuse again. The orifice is located in the drivers side wheel well. If you follow the clutch line you'll come to a 1.5" long brass box.

I remember when i bough the car my cruise control sometimes wouldnt work and that was because the pedal wouldnt come all the way back up and press a switch and I couldnt get my wheels to chirp shifting into 2nd or 3rd because the clutch was slipping. All that is done, my cruise control works all the time and I can fishtail when ever I want...

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

I'll bet the 07-08 models have the same orifice. I couldn't believe how long you had to wait between pedal pumps when bleeding. That orifice would explain why.

Slick 6MT

iTrader: (13)

BUMP



I'm having the same problem. I've replaced the clutch, ss clutch line, flywheel, master and slave cylinders with all brand new parts. Obviously brand new fluid and a full bleed as well. What is left to tend to? The "orifice" and possibly a bad spring in my pedal assembly?

Any help would would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Bleed it again, major PITA to get all the air out.

Slick 6MT

iTrader: (13)

Danny (GreenGoblin) bled the hell out of it and it's still sticking...

caaraa

Just pay the extra $15 for the slave rebuild kit, its cheap.

Slick 6MT

iTrader: (13)

There's a brand new OEM slave in there.

abarclay

iTrader: (41)

I've got an 06 and had this problem about a month after owning it. Since then I've replace my clutch, fw, lines, and cylinders and still have the problem from time to time. Mostly if its really hot out or if I'm sitting in stop-and-go traffic for a 30 minutes or so. I'm definitely thinking about the orifice "solution".