Help! Car won't start or crank
10-25-2015, 08:17 AM
#21
wait, you used a test light on your fuse and it was bad. did you check for continuity after you pulled it out? if your test light didn't come on when testing the fuse that sounds like it can only be the fuse. did you check the new fuse before and after install? maybe your system is shorting out and blowing the fuse immediately.
It sucks when the people dont come back and tell us what it actually ended up being. Hard to diagnose a problem from across the country and then get no feedback on it.
10-26-2015, 04:03 AM
#22
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10-26-2015, 04:05 AM
#23
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Good advice. You also might want to try an alternative key. Sometimes when you get a used car some of the keys are not programmed to start the car. Just throwing that out there. All this great technology isnt always so great. If it has an aftermarket alarm look under the dash for the bypass switch. It probably doesn't have one but you might get lucky... If it did you pretty much just push it and hold it while you start the car... Aftermarket alarms really blow the big one.
10-26-2015, 04:10 AM
#24
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Right. . . .Cuz if it was just a bad fuse. . . test light would light up on one side of the fuse. I wasn't getting a reading at all on either side. But I am wondering. . .is the fuse only activated during an actual crank of turning the ignition to start the car? Didn't try to test while cranking. Does anyone know the actual function for that particular fuse??
10-26-2015, 04:31 AM
#25
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I work like crazy, so my time is limited. I am trying to work on this issue when I do have the time. So it's been a slow process. What I had in mind next was replacing the clutch safety switch. Finding out about the "start signal" fuse. Someone did mention to me about the starter gear not lining up with the flywheel?? Don't know if thats a possibility or not? How can you tell if you have a bad relay in the IPDM? Seems like the starter relay differs from the rest. Sorry, I'm just throwing stuff out there. . . . Haven't drove her in a month! I just want my baby back, lol.
10-26-2015, 05:19 AM
#26
Did you bench test the starter? Single click from the starter is usually a bad starter... Sometimes it's a bad bar and sometimes your engine is seized up (usually it clicks and smokes) your new starter might be a dud. If it clicks its getting power and trying to work. Have you tried push starting ?
Last edited by dboyzalter; 10-26-2015 at 05:21 AM.
11-07-2015, 03:23 AM
#27
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Have had the starter tested. It's still good. I've manually turned the engine at the crank, cuz I thought. . . worst case scenario. Gave it 2 solid good turns. Doesn't seem locked up at all. Have tried push starting as well.
Last edited by Khris Chong; 11-07-2015 at 03:26 AM.
11-07-2015, 06:27 AM
#29
My guess is that when you jumped the other car when you unhooked the cables a surge of some sort happened and it decided to release its energy in the ecu because that's what was on.
Im not saying you didn't but you should always have your headlights on or you blower on when unhooking jumper leads so any spikes your alternator is putting out have a place to escape (use spiked energy)
Thats how I've come to understand it anyways... Just sucks because your trying to help someone out and you end up screwing yourself.
Im not saying you didn't but you should always have your headlights on or you blower on when unhooking jumper leads so any spikes your alternator is putting out have a place to escape (use spiked energy)
Thats how I've come to understand it anyways... Just sucks because your trying to help someone out and you end up screwing yourself.
11-10-2015, 07:38 AM
#30
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Where was this about unhooking for a jump? If the battery is connected, it will buffer.
11-11-2015, 06:26 PM
#32
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11-12-2015, 05:53 AM
#34
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I think he forgot his login because he started commenting with Khris Chong
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