gentry3114

I installed a Stillen Stage 3 SC this summer, and now the temps have dropped into the teens and the car will crank but not start, it smells as if it is flooding. As soon as I hook a battery charger up even at 20 amps it will start right up. I tested the battery with carbon pile tester last nite and had to replace the battery. Once I get it started it will start the rest of the day. Any advice

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Not sure I understand the problem. Your car wouldn't start, but starts with jump. You tested the battery and it says you needed a new one. You replaced it but it still doesn't start?

gentry3114

Correct. It is as if it is flooding out by not getting spark. I monitor the cranking rpm an i get signal so that should rule out crank sensor. It only has a problem when it gets cold out and only on the first start in the morning

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

My guess is too much gas on the spark plugs first thing in the am when it's cold and then the wet plugs wont fire... Clear flood mode aka foot all the way to floor while cranking should get it started just dont keep foot planted once it starts. (Should be able to hear it's about to start and let off)

Dont know why but lots of cars have this issue when the weather gets cold. Mostly when they start the car to move it in the driveway then shut it down right away.

gentry3114

tried the foot to floor. and no difference. the only thing that seems to help is the added power of the charger.

gentry3114

ok just tried something, when it is cold and cranking but no start the RPMS are about 120 to 130, I just started it again today and it started, I turned it off again and held to the floor so It wouldnt start but still give me an rpm signal and it is now 250 to 260. So could it be cranking to slow?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Is your belt too tight or anything binding inside. I dont know about the rpm my car hasn't had the crank no start issue. Will it start every time you add another 12 volt power source? If something is binding the battery could have enough power to crank the starter but not enough to crank the starter and run the computer at the same time.

Are you using normal 5w30?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Is it sputtering at all like it wants to start or just cranking with no signs of wanting to go? Sometimes it takes a long time to clear a flooded engine, if thats the case. I usually try for 10-15 second then give the starter a minute or so to cool down before trying again.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

The new battery you put in... What's the CCA rating (Cold Cranking Amps)? What's the ambient temp when you're starting the car?

If the battery is the correct rating, you probably have corrosion in the starter cable or the positive clamp from the battery down to the starter. When you add the amps from the charger, it overcomes the high resistance on the starter cable and allows the starter to crank fast enough.

gentry3114

the temps have been ranging between 15 and 20 deg F. the oil is mobile one 5w30 full synthetic, the belts are in spec. It does not sputter just cranks, Im leaning towards the starter. This morning I jumped it and it started perfect, about 8 hours later it still works without a jump, and turns over alot faster

gentry3114

it is a 640 cca battery (35 series)

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Could be the starter, but check the cable. You live in MN. Corrosion is likely.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Check your ground also. Ive had cars not start because they had a bad ground... Its odd that it starts with an added 12 volt source. So your problem might be in your wires or connections.

Its just odd that it cranks and doesnt start first thing in the morning. Usually a starter works or doesn't work.. If its working fine after the initial start up I dont think I would put my money on the starter.

But basically you need to wait till tomorrow morning to see if its going to start normal or need the extra power of a jump box?

gentry3114

late reply for everyone but today I finally replaced my starter and cables. the pos had some green death growing, I ran a new 4awg ground to the firewall instead of the tiny factory one there. I also ran a neg all the way to the starter mount bold like most old schools. It cranked faster than it ever has and started right up. I now have it sitting outside to see in the morning as it will get down to 20 deg tonight

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Glad that fixed it. I've seen people replace batteries, starters and even ecm's chasing a no-start only to find it was corrosion inside the cable causing high resistance.