Zergfest

iTrader: (1)

Hi.


So, since last november I've been doing a project to my Z that includes disassembling the whole engine. This is a story for another time.


A question... I have been doing some "first starts" to the engine and it runs. Not fine, but runs. After applying some UpRev I'm expecting it to run fine.


Yesterday was the first time I let it run over 20sec (had no coolant before). Applied coolant and started it up looking for leaks.


Found a leak from block just above oil filter. There is a spot that looks like something you would mount your A/C compressor or equivalent on.


But the engine is built and I cannot find anything to be missing from it, it works "fine". Well runs like **** but it runs.


So, is this something that can be ment to be "empty" and is for right hand drive conversion of the car? Dont have a picture about it sadly. So I should just put a bolt in it? Is there other spots like this?


Thanks.


-Zerg




EDIT: **** quality clip from yesterday with the car running. Filmed with phone.

maxpusher

iTrader: (2)

Not too sure where the coolant leak is coming from but sounds like your valves are ticking. Did you take the timing cover off by any chance? Seems like the timing may be off. Good luck with getting your car running right.

Zergfest

iTrader: (1)

I think I figured out the coolant leak, apparently there is a bolt above oil filter that has no other function but to drain coolant. So need to find that somewhere..




Regarding Valve timing cover, yes I removed it and changed timing chain. Cams as well. But the timing is right, its quite impossible to get it wrong since there are marks on the chain as well as on the cams & crank.


Cams are brand new with somewhat different profile than OEM, so I'm putting the noise to that and lack of oil up at valves since it takes a moment for pump to swing oil up there. At the video the engine had been on for about 1min.


At the picture you can see new chain with the markings on cams, which do not meet. This caused me a lot of headdache until I figured that once the timing is right, the markings dont meet every round but like once every 25 rounds or something.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Its alot easier than you would think for it to jump timing.

Zergfest

iTrader: (1)

I really dont think this is the case. However now Im paranoid.


So the leakage seems to come from one of the holes shown in picture, and the bolt im missing, which is on its own (instead of actually bolting in anything) is missing. Didnt find it anywhere.

Anyone happen to know the size of this?

Pictures from a fellow Z enthusiast.

jhc

Put the smallest open end wrench that fits on the thread. It's metric and course thread, mb 1.0 pitch. That will get you close, gl.

rancor

The FSM will show you where the block coolant drain plugs are. Nissan also says to use thread sealant/rtv depending on the coolant drain plugs.