DIY: Zspeed Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder
#41
I'm in the process of revising my clutch master cylinder due to a damaged master cylinder rod.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: .
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in the process of revising my clutch master cylinder due to a damaged master cylinder rod.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
pics!!!!!
#43
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I had to look back....
I installed mine January 30, 2013. I've ran a handful times at Gingerman, Mid Ohio and many autox's. This also includes 2 trips to Zdays, plus a ton of miles in my own town. It was a direct bolt in, super easy install. I've never had one ounce of trouble and fluid is perfect. Of course, all of this was on a heavier aftermarket clutch/fly. I think I was the first to install the kit.
I installed mine January 30, 2013. I've ran a handful times at Gingerman, Mid Ohio and many autox's. This also includes 2 trips to Zdays, plus a ton of miles in my own town. It was a direct bolt in, super easy install. I've never had one ounce of trouble and fluid is perfect. Of course, all of this was on a heavier aftermarket clutch/fly. I think I was the first to install the kit.
#45
Registered User
Hello, I just ordered the Zspeed CMC kit that came with an OEM Slave and SS lines last night. I couldn't help but notice that this DIY was for an 07, is this install significantly different for an 06 DE? Seems like a fairly simple install but this is my daily and I'm a bit nervous lol.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#46
#47
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
It installs the same way.
Hello, I just ordered the Zspeed CMC kit that came with an OEM Slave and SS lines last night. I couldn't help but notice that this DIY was for an 07, is this install significantly different for an 06 DE? Seems like a fairly simple install but this is my daily and I'm a bit nervous lol.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#48
#49
Registered User
Hey guys, had the Wilwood CMC, oem CSC, stainless clutch hoses, and motul 5.1 brake fluid put in five days ago and it just started squeaking. From what I read it took a while for most people to start getting the squeaking. Does it sound like I have a defective part or is it most likely the clutch pedal pin? Mechanically everything is fine and it completely fixed my clutch pedal issues but the squeaking just started tonight. Any advice is appreciated
#52
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
So apologies for bringing this back from the dead, but I just installed a Tilton MC and it is taking FOREVER to bleed. It got fluid to flow pretty fast through it, but my dad and I were bleeding for 3 hours straight with no luck of having the pedal fully return to the top (we still have to use our toes to bring the pedal fully up) but there is pressure.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
#53
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
So apologies for bringing this back from the dead, but I just installed a Tilton MC and it is taking FOREVER to bleed. It got fluid to flow pretty fast through it, but my dad and I were bleeding for 3 hours straight with no luck of having the pedal fully return to the top (we still have to use our toes to bring the pedal fully up) but there is pressure.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
Have you adjusted the master cylinder rod? It will require fine tuning after installation.
Sounds like you have it too loose which will make the clutch act as if you have air in the system.
Tighten (turn rod clockwise) in small steps and retry until you feel the pedal start to pop back up, Once it pops up on its own, tighten the adjustment lock nut and you're done!
You do not want to over adjust it and get it too tight.
#54
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
It takes no longer than a few minutes to bleed if you have it adjusted correctly.
Have you adjusted the master cylinder rod? It will require fine tuning after installation.
Sounds like you have it too loose which will make the clutch act as if you have air in the system.
Tighten (turn rod clockwise) in small steps and retry until you feel the pedal start to pop back up, Once it pops up on its own, tighten the adjustment lock nut and you're done!
You do not want to over adjust it and get it too tight.
Have you adjusted the master cylinder rod? It will require fine tuning after installation.
Sounds like you have it too loose which will make the clutch act as if you have air in the system.
Tighten (turn rod clockwise) in small steps and retry until you feel the pedal start to pop back up, Once it pops up on its own, tighten the adjustment lock nut and you're done!
You do not want to over adjust it and get it too tight.
#57
New Member
iTrader: (3)
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Last edited by Rev_Night; 11-06-2015 at 02:24 PM.
#58
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; 11-06-2015 at 02:32 PM.
#60
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
From the master you will follow the stock routing of the hard pipes with the Ss line included and then connect that to the short hose going to the transmission
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; 11-06-2015 at 02:54 PM.