Starting off I apologize for not taking more pictures.

Installing the master cylinder is pretty straight forward. Packing shop towels below and around master cylinder will aid in keeping the brake fluid off the paint.

1) Disconnect flexible clutch line at the transmission and allow fluid to drain out of master cylinder (pumping speeds this up). Then remove flexible line at chassis hard line.

2) Assuming driver side wheel is off, remove rear half of fender liner.

3) Remove master cylinder plastic covers in engine bay.

4) Working from bottom to top, loosen/remove hard lines, orifice block (behind fender liner), take lose the hardline going into the master cylinder and remove.

5) Leave the master cylinder - tubing - fluid reservoir together while remove fasteners / bracket holding the reservoir.

6) Below the dashboard: Pull the clevis pin holding the master cylinder fork to the pedal.

7) Remove the two lower nuts on the clutch pedal brackets (3 total on bracket, 2 of them also hold the master cylinder). From engine bay remove oem master cylinder, making sure not to drip brake fluid.

8) Mount new master cylinder to the firewall reusing original fastners.

9) Routing of the SS braided line is a little trail and error but mounting them using 3/16" SS insulated tubing mounts (forgot real name of mounting clamps). I found mine at West Marine boating supplies.

10) Reconnect flexible line to new SS braided line from master cylinder and to transmission hardlines (I have the Zspeed HD CSC)

11) Enjoy uber simple clutch bleeding, took all of 10 minutes. Cracking the banjo bolt at the master cylinder kick started the priming, after that it was a simply matter of pumping the pedal 10 times and open bleeder valve. Repeat pumping / bleeding a dozen times and all done.

See pictures for routing / mounting.

 

Got the car all buttoned up and took her for a test drive.

New setup (all parts sourced from Zspeedperformance):

Southbend DXD 23lbs Flywheel
Southbend Stage 2 "endurance" dual friction clutch
Zspeed Heavy Duty CSC for 07+ cars
Zspeed Wilwood Master Cylinder (Looks like i got the last one with a built in reservoir, looks like they now reuse the OEM reservoir and tube)

Results: Major improvement in pedal feedback, pedal is about 2x as stiff but should lessen with break in. Gonna be hell having to baby it for 500 break in miles.

 

Thanks for the write up Ian! Glad everything worked out great for you!

Few more pics of the set-up, This is on a customers track car that kept having pedal drop issues half way through his track sessions, His is a DE but basically the same set-up just a little smaller 5/8" master cylinder.

These will now fit all DE or HR cars with or without VDC and retain the stock remote mount reservoir.





This kills all the pedal drop issues, leaking internal masters causing issues.
Absolutely a killer set-up for the DE or HR.

 

I have a 2003, will this package work for mine:
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...ZSpHDCombo.htm

Or do you have another setup for the DE? Thanks again

 

DE kits are not quite ready yet, Waiting on parts to arrive to complete them

Should only be a few days.

 

Hello,

Do it work with the OEM CSC ?
Anything else needed exept the clamps hoses to install it ?
Thanks for answer

 

Yea it will work with the oem CSC.

I can't personally say the pedal behavior is unchanged bc i put in a stiffer clutch at the same time. Another user of the zspeed MC said he noticed no pedal behavior change when using the oem CSC and oem clutch.

 

Thanks Ian, I will order one And install my Nismo clutch in the same time !

 

Installed mine yesterday , absolutely love it! Bleeding the system was cake and so was the install . Definitely recommend this mod, also changed my transmission fluid to motul gear 300 75w90 which is super smooth . Very happy with the combo , solid diff bushings tomorrow

 

Ill be getting one of these my car drives like $hit and I've replaced the master once already.
YAY! Can't wait to have it driving normally.

 

Ian99rt, you are awesome I enjoy your writeups.

I did something very stupid following this procedure. I'm going to comment in so no future reader needs to repeat my mistake.

I didn't realize that the flexible rubber hose and the hard line going from the flexible rubber hose to the slave cylinder would be reused; my fault for not reading the procedure enough in advance. I was having a heck of a time getting the banjo clip on upper part of flexible rubber hose to release (there's no room in there)...so...*cough* I cut the hose. DON'T DO THIS, lol.

The hose that comes with the part only replaces the hardline which goes between the master cylinder and the flexible hose. The optional hose Zspeed sells replaces the flexible hose, but you still retain the lower hardline (so don't bend that either). BTW the dealer doesn't stock the flexible hose.

To be honest I think you could start this procedure by unscrewing the hardline (coming from master cylinder) from the flexible hose. Unless that is overtightened / stripped (mine wasn't...but the lower hardline is...and I don't want to think about that just yet) I don't think you need to remove the lower hoses.

 

how much is this kit Zspeed? 2008 HR

 

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Nis...er-ZSP3003.htm

 

hummm, pair this with a wilwood reservoir and screw on cap and then you can use the motive power bleeder to power bleed the system quick...



https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ghlight=clutch
-J

 

Bought and installed this about 4 months ago and the Wilwood mc already leaks at the pin. It was squeaking so i got under the pedal to check it out and sure enough a leak. Whats worse is that it's turning my fluid pitch black super quick.

 

Sorry you are having an issue,

Have you contacted us about this issue?

Is your fluid level actually dropping or is it just damp by the pin? They are greased at the pin when new and after it warms up from use will look damp at the pin location.

Did you change the slave cylinder at the same time as the master? Maybe a worn slave is causing contamination in the system.

 

I got a squeaker as well, def need to get under there and get some lithium grease on the pedal pin.

I'm still very convinced the oem remote reservoir hose is degrading in the presence of brake fluid and gumming up the master cylinders / slaves.

Zspeed's older wilwood cylinders with the built in reservoir is an awesome product that removes 95% of the rubber in the system to degrade. Filling the reservoir down low is hardly an issue with a $3 long neck funnel.

 

I actually had the super-black fluid on my first wilwood, I sent it back to Joe@Zspeed after getting another one from him (also changed sizes to help pedal action with my twin-disc) and the fluid is still clear a year later now. There are some of them that I believe don't seal properly or have bad/weak seals that degrade.

The squeaking I got badly the first time, took the pedal pin out and scuffed/polished it and added grease, has been much better.


Also, my memory sucks but I believe I originally had a built-in resevior one, so it couldn't have been the old remote filler line causing the fluid to darken. The entire system was brand new, the Zspeed heavy slave, all stainless line, and new master. Fluid looked like death after a month or two.

 

I checked my slave and the booths are still fine. The slave was changed at the same time as the MC. At first I thought the dampness was grease but upon cleaning it I know it's definitely brake fluid. The consistency of it is just like brake fluid and it smells like the fluid I am using. I checked the fluid and it seems to drop a bit but the pitch black color is definitely worrisome to me.

I'm basically draining and refilling the fluid every two weeks at this point.

 

People still happy with this product? Long last reviews?