When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm in the process of revising my clutch master cylinder due to a damaged master cylinder rod.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
Waiting for the pictures, very interesting as I run also a RJM Pedal. Thanks for the input.
I'm in the process of revising my clutch master cylinder due to a damaged master cylinder rod.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I had to look back....
I installed mine January 30, 2013. I've ran a handful times at Gingerman, Mid Ohio and many autox's. This also includes 2 trips to Zdays, plus a ton of miles in my own town. It was a direct bolt in, super easy install. I've never had one ounce of trouble and fluid is perfect. Of course, all of this was on a heavier aftermarket clutch/fly. I think I was the first to install the kit.
Hello, I just ordered the Zspeed CMC kit that came with an OEM Slave and SS lines last night. I couldn't help but notice that this DIY was for an 07, is this install significantly different for an 06 DE? Seems like a fairly simple install but this is my daily and I'm a bit nervous lol.
Hello, I just ordered the Zspeed CMC kit that came with an OEM Slave and SS lines last night. I couldn't help but notice that this DIY was for an 07, is this install significantly different for an 06 DE? Seems like a fairly simple install but this is my daily and I'm a bit nervous lol.
Hey guys, had the Wilwood CMC, oem CSC, stainless clutch hoses, and motul 5.1 brake fluid put in five days ago and it just started squeaking. From what I read it took a while for most people to start getting the squeaking. Does it sound like I have a defective part or is it most likely the clutch pedal pin? Mechanically everything is fine and it completely fixed my clutch pedal issues but the squeaking just started tonight. Any advice is appreciated
Clutch pedal pin, mine was making noise almost right away. Clean it up with some fine sandpaper and lightly grease it, should be quiet for a good while.
So apologies for bringing this back from the dead, but I just installed a Tilton MC and it is taking FOREVER to bleed. It got fluid to flow pretty fast through it, but my dad and I were bleeding for 3 hours straight with no luck of having the pedal fully return to the top (we still have to use our toes to bring the pedal fully up) but there is pressure.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
So apologies for bringing this back from the dead, but I just installed a Tilton MC and it is taking FOREVER to bleed. It got fluid to flow pretty fast through it, but my dad and I were bleeding for 3 hours straight with no luck of having the pedal fully return to the top (we still have to use our toes to bring the pedal fully up) but there is pressure.
I know we might have gotten air into the system, but it is taking forever to get all the air bubbles out. Any suggestions?
We've been using the FSM technique. Is it just normal for bleeding to take such a long time.
It takes no longer than a few minutes to bleed if you have it adjusted correctly.
Have you adjusted the master cylinder rod? It will require fine tuning after installation.
Sounds like you have it too loose which will make the clutch act as if you have air in the system.
Tighten (turn rod clockwise) in small steps and retry until you feel the pedal start to pop back up, Once it pops up on its own, tighten the adjustment lock nut and you're done!
You do not want to over adjust it and get it too tight.
It takes no longer than a few minutes to bleed if you have it adjusted correctly.
Have you adjusted the master cylinder rod? It will require fine tuning after installation.
Sounds like you have it too loose which will make the clutch act as if you have air in the system.
Tighten (turn rod clockwise) in small steps and retry until you feel the pedal start to pop back up, Once it pops up on its own, tighten the adjustment lock nut and you're done!
You do not want to over adjust it and get it too tight.
This is exactly what I did yesterday after some research and it worked perfectly! All air bubbles gone within 5 minutes and the pedal shoots right to the top. I wish this DIY had the info on the first page. I'll review the Tilton MC kit since there isn't one on the forum. So far it's nice and smooth Thanks!
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Last edited by Rev_Night; Nov 6, 2015 at 02:24 PM.
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
It does replace everything except the short hose to the trans, looks like you've installed it incorrectly
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; Nov 6, 2015 at 02:32 PM.
oh wow, my bad. I hadnt yet taken it out of its packaging. I just did that, and its 4.5ish ft in length. Just to be clear, that is long enough to make it to the tranny hose?
Ok so I assumed that Zspeed MC kit would connect all the way down to where the CSC connects to underneath the car (PIC 1). But it actually is only long enough to connect to the orifice block (PIC 2). My question are:
1. What are the benefits of this block?
2. Why can't it just be replaced by one long SS line?
3. If it can be removed, what are the benefits?
4. If there are benefits, where can I get this SS line?
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Also not sure which lines you have in both of your pics but neither one are of the lines you received with our kit, our lines are coated in a black PVC coating.
From the master you will follow the stock routing of the hard pipes with the Ss line included and then connect that to the short hose going to the transmission
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; Nov 6, 2015 at 02:54 PM.
Thanks!
