STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Let us know about the brackets im interested in the ac and power steering .

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Will do. Is there any benefit to having the Z alternator as well?

bbs, can you post up some pics and info on the wiring harness? I'm interested to see how the LS ECU is integrated into the Z harness.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

yea dude, i tried taking pics of the master cylinder setup but the lighting is so horrible right now. i can get good ones tomorrow for ya. also ill get pics of the harness. harness does look oem, and you can physically see where they were integrated. they also have ires albeled for fan hi/low, tach.


my main question right now, i just got my speedhut tach setup in my cluster, and the wiring has 3 harnesses. the white wires says it goes to dash lighting wires. where or what are the dash lighting wires? would that be anywire that lights up the dash??

harness 1- yellow wire- connects directly to tach signal wire on ls harness

harness 2- black wire (ground)- red (12v + constant), and white wire (says dash lighting wire-where do i connect this??)

harness 3- black (ground), white (??), and a box for the lighting.

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

How do you hook up the starter on the LS? Use the Z starter +, - and signal wire?

I read somewhere that you had to disable the security system stuff to get the engine to start... is this true?

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

yes, the gm VATS system has to be disabled. from what im told, its very very simple. the ls starter/alternator should work. just make a decent gauge copper wiring and connect the alt to the starter and back to the battery like stock

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

I went out and looked in my car and realized that its such a mess with so many aftermarket things going on I may tell you the wrong thing. If its like a Defi setup, you just need to tap the wire sending power to the headlights. When the gauge sees power on the connection (headlights on) it auto dims the gauge.

This link may help too:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/

I would have sourced the exact page, but I need your year and such.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Frank Hill just turned me on to this as well:

Check link and discuss... Big Cloud, would like your technical input here if you have thoughts.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm

BTW... called the machine shop today and my guy is out till Tuesday on vacation. I will stay on it. Quamen, if you want to attempt brackets, I will be the test subject and will pay if we can agree on pricing. Let me know ASAP, I want this car running like yesterday.

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

Cass this looks like an awesome product! This "could" work if I can find the merged signal pin for the Nissan tach. If I had a schematic I could find out where the signals merge and what pin they are on the Integrated Circuit chip. Real easy from there to wire the SGI-8 D up.

Another note does anyone know what the protocol of the LS tach signal is? Also does anyone know what the protocol of the "merged" Z tach signal is as well?


The SGI-8 D doesn't say what protocols it cannot output. This is cheap enough to warrant an experiment!!

Cass I'm down for providing some development dollars as well towards this. I have an O-Scope and plenty of soldering materials to make it happen!!

Also we could buy a spare cluster to use as a development tool. I can/will put money on this as well. Are those inexpensive? I believe I can cover a lot of the ground work if I can get a schematic and the protocols of the two tach signals. I can try to duplicate both protocols in software to test as well. Then once the parts come in I can start doing some tests on the test cluster.

What do you guys think?

STL 350Z

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't sound hard to do... I will look into disabling the vats system, I am sure theres info on google.

I am going to keep following this thread because of the brackets. I find it very important to keep the stock a/c and power steering since my Z is daily driven and brackets will make for an easier installation while not having to make new a/c lines and such further extedning the downtime due to the swap.

Should any belt work or will we have to look into making new a/c, power steering pullies as well to match the LS crank or have a new LS crank made to match the Z pullies.

If your friend is up to it please let us all know and once you get ready to make a few I will be sending payment for mine and take lots of pics for us... I love pictures!

Also... sorry for all my questions because there will be a lot of them.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Started the master cylinder swap today for the SIKKY kit. Thought I had some fail, but it turns out that the willwood washer is not the washer to use when swapping the Nissan push rod over, you use the one in the hardware pack. FYI, the pdf instructions at www.sikky.com have pictures that made it easy enough for even me to understand.

BTW, when I thought Ihad the wrong parts I called SIKKY. They requested some emailed pics, I sent them from my phone, they called 5 mins later to tell me to use the other washer. HOW'S THAT FOR SERVICE?!?!?

I have a spare cluster I have no problem using it as long as it doesn't get destroyed. I believe I got it for $175 out of the classifieds. bigcloud, PM me your cell # and address and we can get something going here.

As far as protocols I will ask on the LStech boards tonight about the tach signal there. Maybe you can call Dakota digital and ask them if they know the Nissan protocol and if they have any experience with our specific application.

Headed back out to try and finish the cylinder swap now.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

i have a spare cluster as well. didnt pay anything for it so i have no care how botched up it may get.

as for the sgi-8, i see no use for it, as the wire from the speedhut clips into the factory ls wire. thats free and easier than runing it to a box

and for the diagrams, its an 03. im on my tele right now so cant exactly download all that info to it

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

bbs I think the use of the sgi-8 would be beneficial to those that want to keep the stock tach instead of using the speedhut tach. Plus the more proven options us swappers have the better choices we can make to our specific application.


Cass PM sent.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

Pm me if anyone needs the oil pressure sensor adapter I posted pictures of. I have two more from when I made bbs and Cass's.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

I got the SIKKY master cylinder kit on the car today... a few notes:

1. disconnect the stock clutch hard line before step one on the instructions

2. the washer to put on the final assembly is NOT the willwood washer, its in the packet of hardware

3. buy a set of metric wrenches with swivel heads on the open ended side, getting the pedal adjustment right to get the pin in is the hardest part. If you are old, out of shape or just plain fat you can forget about doing this yourself... it just about killed me as I am a bit of all 3 of the above.

Removing the dead pedal will help a bit, but its just crazy tight to get at. I would suggest fastening one side of the master to the firewall, check clearance and then back everything out again as needed. Also, start with the unit set to as short as possible and back it out to fit, not the other way around.

4. Having a second set of hands to help with the snap rings makes things much easier (a wife or GF is useable). You need a set of ring pliers that compresses the ring, not expands it. Oh, and FYI, when you remove the ring on the stock master cylinder it is under pressure and full of fluid (even if you drained it) and you will money shot yourself and ruin your clothes with brake fuild if not lucky or careful

Lastly, a question to those that have done this already... Where did you drill the hole for the SS line to go through the brake compartment to the trans? a picture would be great!!

I took a bunch of pics of this if anyone wants to see them.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

lol i love this post. thankfully, my clutch fluid was empty so the master was pretty easy to do and line up and get into the clutch pedal. unless theres some adjusting necessary, but i pretty much just tossed it on lol. and i told you that snap ring was a ***** lol

and bigcloud, i thought you guys were referring to the speedhut tach. id be interested in seeing if the sg part works, would be much less of a headache, and look oem

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

Heres a couple short videos from today, My Buddies G35 with LS2/hot cam. Hes on sikky headers w/ OEM exhaust. Cutout in place 3/4 way back.

Sounds amazing in person with cutouts open.

First G/Z in San Antonio to complete swap.
Enjoy

http://s749.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_0046.mp4
http://s749.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_0045.mp4

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

Tehkmob!! Sick!!!! Sick!!! Sikky!!!!

TehkMob

iTrader: (23)

Beware of sikky electric. Many many issues. My buddy had to send back twice for rebuild.and took almost a month both times for turn around. This swap was 3 months in the making mainly because of sikky wiring issues.

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

^did your friend with the bad experience have ls2 harness? i hear the gto harnesses are iffy. ill see how my ls1 harness holds up soon lol.

ps any update on the cluster wiring??

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

Alright guys, as you may know I am currently building a 6.3L (383) stroker with high compression. I have been doing a ton of research for the last couple months to determine the best route to take. Below are some links to some really good books I purchased that would be extremely useful for anyone looking to work on or mod their LS motor.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-...sri=ls%2bmotor

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-...m%2bls%2bmotor

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-...m%2bls%2bmotor

I highly recommend buying one, if not all three of these books as they explain difference between each generation of LS motors along with how to identify them. They also explain good how to build specific types of motors and outline cam selction, block selection and how to select nearly every other item when building your motor.

Anyways, as you may know, my car is almost exclusively a track car now with very occassional street use. I am absolutely set on the 383 stroker with high compression. Below are the part numbers I have purchased:

1) Callies Compstar 4.000" Stroke Crankshaft PN:APO31N-CS58
2) Callies Compstar 6.125" Connecting Rods PN: CSC6125DS2A2AH
3) Diamond 3.905" Nitrous Pistons PN: 11560

This setup with bring the motor up to 6.3L and give me 12.5:1 compression ratio assuming nothing is changed. The block is getting decked and I am going to have the heads milled .020" to get up to the 13:1 I require.

My issue is that I am using 853 heads which are not the best. They have a 66.67cc combustion chamber and they flow okay. I am also still on the stock LS1 manifold with a ported throttle body. I would like to put a cam, springs and pushrods in, but for the $600 it will cost I may only get 30-40whp due to the manifold and heads. The other downside is that if I put a cam in it now, I will most likely have to replace it when I do heads and intake over the winter. I would hate to install a cam now only to sell it in 6 months.

I will be spraying a 100-150shot of nitrous this season. Do you guys think I would be better off just using the spray and leaving it with a stock cam? Then just put that $600 towards the build in winter?

My goal at the track is to hover right around the 500whp mark as that will net me a mid 10's car with my current setup. On the street I couldn't car less about the power I make. My car was a blast at 322whp and I should be at about 400whp N/A with the stroker now.

Any input?