RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

Ready to pull my hair out! After what i thought was just a bad T/O bearing, I ended up getting a brand new cd009 and swapping it in..after maybe 100-150 miles on it it is grinding as well..

Carbonetics triple clutch, new clutch master cylinder, new slave cylinder, stainless braided clutch line and had the crap bled out of it..still grinding..I have to shift very slow to not grind.
I called Kiyo @ carbonetics and he told me to use a specific T/O bearing that had to be ordered which i did...

I don't get it.

This pic shows the factory T/O bearing and the one Kiyo told me to use...






Tranny has been out of the car 3 times in the last 4months trying to figure this out..very frustrating..

ANY Suggestions? I have done all I know to do...

I am half tempted to pull it out again and use the factory T/O just to see if it makes a difference, but damn its a pain in the *** to R&R..

Clutch fork at rest..



Clutch pedal fully depressed..

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Maybe the clutch isn't fully disengaging? Can you put the rear of the car on jackstands, put the car in 1st gear, and fully depress the clutch? If the wheels are spinning, that would provide your answer.

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

Def. gonna try this tomorrow..will let you know..

350z 6spd

iTrader: (9)

Just putting this out there, the wheels will prob turn either way. In other words if you're in 1st gear and the clutch IS completely disengaging, the wheels will probably still turn if they are in the air.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

True, there may be some slight drag in the clutch, but they shouldn't be fully engaged - not that I'd ever grab a spinning wheel to check.

Nealoc187

under what circumstances is it grinding. certain gears? all gears? fast shifts, slow shifts, all shifts? all RPMs or only high RPMs?

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

I have to granny shift or it grinds..I cannot just accelerate quickly up through the gears without grinding into 2nd,3rd and 4th..

Has to be an engagement, disengagement issue..something is not within tolerance somewhere..I may pull the damn thing again and go back to stock t/o bearing..very frustrated with this!

Clutch 2200.00
tranny 1750.00
assorted accesories ./ slave, master ,etc etc 300.00

still have noise...All this started in the old tranny ( has 40,000 miles on it)after the race in april 09....hasn't been the same since..

Each time i have pulled it apart I have meticulously put it back together, when i swapped the tranny this time i did not take the clutch apart but before when I did, I used a tq. wrench etc and very carefully put it all back together..
Sharif had suggested checking the tq. on the bolts surrounding the center "leaf" section or tines whichever you prefer...that is something i have never done...

Any other suggestions..?

I am going to get the tranny tech at a local dealership to look at it outside of the dealer..

dcains

iTrader: (15)

A couple of things I can think of. With a multi-plate clutch all the pieces have to be assembled in the proper order, and orientation. Are you sure that's correct? This one's stupid, but you did put oil in the gearbox, right? The clutch hydraulics are properly bled? Does the FSM give a spec for the length of travel on the release bearing lever? Finally, is the gearbox fully tightened to the engine? I didn't do this once on one of my Alfa's, and the gearbox would push back slightly every time I depressed the clutch pedal, giving symptoms like you're describing. Maybe you just need another set of eyes to see if you missed something obvious.

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

The sequence of the clutch is exactly the same as when I pulled it out of the box...and yes while the tranny was still on the jack level, The fluid was the first thing I topped off...I need to check for the tolerences and yes the tranny is properly torqued to the block...like I said, I was very meticulous when reassembling. I have bled it both with someone pedaling the clutch for me and then for grins yesterday used my "mightyvac" pump to bleed it again..

Thanks very much for your thoughts though....I have racked my brain trying to figure it out....I think i will re-pull it once again and have someone else verify reassembly with a tq. wrench again.

Do me a favor and ponder this....look at the picture of the fork plate and then look at the picture of the smaller T/O bearing I was told to use....I wonder if when the clutch pedal is pressed if the "tines" are sliding "over" that hump on the bearing..which would result in a partial engagement as they are spread forward, then slip slightly backwards......sound crazy?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Man, I don't know what to tell you about the T/O bearing, but I suppose it's a possibility. From the pics of the fork, it doesn't look like it could travel too much farther, so that also points to the T/O bearing. Did you call Carbonetics?

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

Oh yeah..The guys name is Kiyo. Spoke to him at length about the T/O..I had to order the one you see in the pics..thats the part number he gave me and told me to use..

GBoger

syncros

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

Yeah my old tranny with 40000 miles i believe it...this new one has less than 200 miles on it..still think synchros? It has to be something else...

winterdevilg35

It definately sounds like the syncros. Wanna know why? I bet you didn't realign the shifter plate correctly or it's off. It sounds like your way off....

when you put the shifter back in did you put it in 6th gear, then move the plate and tighten the right rear bolt? then put it in 5th gear and adjust the plate against the guide point and tighten the top bolt? then tighten the left bolt?

I bet this is your issue or you didn't put enough transmission fluid in, put the right transmission fluid in, or change out the transmission fluid after driving it 500 miles to break in the new gears; Although, I think you said you only drove it 150 miles so that last part couldn't be it. Let me know if you aligned it or not because I have been in your shoes....

winterdevilg35

Oh and another thing....I hope you replaced your OEM pivotball with a steel pivotball.....FYI it is a very good reliability investment IMHO. Especially when you increase performance on these cars.

RED RIDER

iTrader: (8)

WHAT??? I have NEVER heard of installing the shifter plate like that?!?!? DAMMIT Just read in the FSM EXACTLY what you are talking about!

I def. did put the nissan factory fluid in and it IS full....

So are you saying that I can 're-align' the plate now and it may solve my problem???

IIQuickSilverII

iTrader: (13)

good luck op!

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Hmmm, I'm not sure the shifter plate alignment would cause it to grind in all gears, would it?

winterdevilg35

If the shifter plate isn't aligned properly even the slightest bit then it can cause your transmission to act up when shifting. Basically having the shifter aligned provides the "guideway/passage" for the shifter linkage into the syncros/gears. Basically you have to have it aligned or else your going to grind your gears out and you will have to get another new transmission. Not having the shifter plate aligned properly can cause you to grind in any gear depending on how misaligned it is.
What happened to me is my pivotball snapped and I had to drop the transmission to replace it. After I dropped the transmission and put it back on I didn't realign the shifter plate and it started out with one gear going out, then the next gear going out, then the next gear and the transmission was toast from all the metal shavings and heat it produced from driving my car. I got the CD009 transmission and this time I did align the shifter plate and I haven't had an issue since.
Just follow the directions on how to align the shifter in the manual if you have it or find my thread about shifter realignment.

winterdevilg35

anything?....bump....