Procharged G35
01-21-2015, 07:50 AM
#103
You shouldn't have to pull much timing. If you run E85 you will not pull any timing at all. Think about it Vettes, HR motors, Hondas, alot of cars now a days is getting higher compression and people are putting so sort of forced induction on to them with no problem.
01-21-2015, 11:28 AM
#105
Huh, never heard of anyone doing this, aside from an all out race motor on race fuel. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
01-21-2015, 04:58 PM
#107
01-30-2015, 08:51 AM
#108
Just got my motor back from the machine shop, crank is all shiny and line hone is done to the block. Was told all of my clerances are standard. Wtf does that mean I dont know.. looks like ill be getting a micrometer to measure and see what bearings I need to get .0030 clerances.
01-30-2015, 09:23 AM
#109
Just got my motor back from the machine shop, crank is all shiny and line hone is done to the block. Was told all of my clerances are standard. Wtf does that mean I dont know.. looks like ill be getting a micrometer to measure and see what bearings I need to get .0030 clerances.
01-31-2015, 10:07 AM
#111
MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE Standard : 0.035 - 0.045 mm (0.0014 - 0.0018 in)
Limit : 0.065 mm (0.0026 in)
CONNECTING ROD BEARING OIL CLEARANCE Standard : 0.034 - 0.059 mm (0.0013 - 0.0023 in)
Limit : 0.070 mm (0.0028 in)
So with that being said, wtf should I put my bearing clearances at?
Limit : 0.065 mm (0.0026 in)
CONNECTING ROD BEARING OIL CLEARANCE Standard : 0.034 - 0.059 mm (0.0013 - 0.0023 in)
Limit : 0.070 mm (0.0028 in)
So with that being said, wtf should I put my bearing clearances at?
01-31-2015, 04:46 PM
#112
Don't know how much the machine shop is doing for you, but
The machine Shop can not tell you what the clearances are, unless they installed the your crank in your block with your new bearings.
Standard means: that they measured the crank journals and they were within stock tolerance. You need a spec sheet from them.
To gain bearing clearance you can buy bearings that will give you .0001" over stock. ACL makes Race Series Bearings for this purpose. If your building the motor, everything still needs to be miced to verify clearances though.
Also if they polished your crank it will give you an extra .0001"-.0002" depending on how much they did.
TimRod
The machine Shop can not tell you what the clearances are, unless they installed the your crank in your block with your new bearings.
Standard means: that they measured the crank journals and they were within stock tolerance. You need a spec sheet from them.
To gain bearing clearance you can buy bearings that will give you .0001" over stock. ACL makes Race Series Bearings for this purpose. If your building the motor, everything still needs to be miced to verify clearances though.
Also if they polished your crank it will give you an extra .0001"-.0002" depending on how much they did.
TimRod
02-02-2015, 01:56 AM
#119
Get a proper micrometer.
Or you'll be doing this again in 6 months, with this engine in the dumpster.
If this is your first build I strongly recommend you have a reputable builder put it together for you.
Seriously. A shop that knows these engines and who can set it up properly will save you double what you pay them. Trust me on this.
I've seen plenty of engines, outside Vq35's, eat sh*t and die. 1jz's, 2jz's, rb26's, ej25's, 4g63's, s54/m54. They all eat sh*t and die. Mainly because somebody who didn't know how to do what they needed to do, put it together.
Either that, or you need to do a bunch of engine building research.
Knowing what clearances is one thing... this is actually not that hard for most builds. But knowing how to check those clearances, how machines run, even how to use a feeler gauge correctly takes practice. Every machine and micrometer, torque wrench and feeler has some "error". Good machinists know how things run, and what each part needs to do, how each material acts under stress and can compensate. Great machinists have it down to an art.
Leave plastigauge for your junkyard build/beater build. Don't do it on your vq35. You'll be crying.
Or you'll be doing this again in 6 months, with this engine in the dumpster.
If this is your first build I strongly recommend you have a reputable builder put it together for you.
Seriously. A shop that knows these engines and who can set it up properly will save you double what you pay them. Trust me on this.
I've seen plenty of engines, outside Vq35's, eat sh*t and die. 1jz's, 2jz's, rb26's, ej25's, 4g63's, s54/m54. They all eat sh*t and die. Mainly because somebody who didn't know how to do what they needed to do, put it together.
Either that, or you need to do a bunch of engine building research.
Knowing what clearances is one thing... this is actually not that hard for most builds. But knowing how to check those clearances, how machines run, even how to use a feeler gauge correctly takes practice. Every machine and micrometer, torque wrench and feeler has some "error". Good machinists know how things run, and what each part needs to do, how each material acts under stress and can compensate. Great machinists have it down to an art.
Leave plastigauge for your junkyard build/beater build. Don't do it on your vq35. You'll be crying.
Last edited by Resmarted; 02-02-2015 at 01:57 AM.
02-02-2015, 12:38 PM
#120
I will be 61 years old in march. When I was a kid growing up in the late 50's and 60's and early 70's I helped or should I say watched my Dad build Hi performance street/strip motors starting at the age of about 5 years old.
Back in the day plastigauge was a very common practice. Mainly because it was inexpensive. Of corse we had a good local machine shop and always got a spec sheet. My Dad always used Plastigauge to verify bearing clearances.
These motors were run hard and for many miles, and lots of time at the strip and playing on the street. Out of 6-8 motors built that I can remember, they all ran very well and never had any issues. My Brother in his 1960 Ford Falcon with a 289ci would Trophy nearly every weekend for the Class C/Modified Production. It was always towed from the finish line back to the Pits. At age 13, my Brother would let me be the tow car driver. I should note that my Trophing Brother was only 16 years, and with my Dad's help he would beat out all the pro cars and drivers for his class......
All that said, Today I would never build a HiPo Motor without the Proper Tools and Measure everything.
TimRod
Back in the day plastigauge was a very common practice. Mainly because it was inexpensive. Of corse we had a good local machine shop and always got a spec sheet. My Dad always used Plastigauge to verify bearing clearances.
These motors were run hard and for many miles, and lots of time at the strip and playing on the street. Out of 6-8 motors built that I can remember, they all ran very well and never had any issues. My Brother in his 1960 Ford Falcon with a 289ci would Trophy nearly every weekend for the Class C/Modified Production. It was always towed from the finish line back to the Pits. At age 13, my Brother would let me be the tow car driver. I should note that my Trophing Brother was only 16 years, and with my Dad's help he would beat out all the pro cars and drivers for his class......
All that said, Today I would never build a HiPo Motor without the Proper Tools and Measure everything.
TimRod