Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

I do remember reading something about the fuel economy advantages with the lighter viscosity 0w-XX oils but in my mind that goes mute when your start going above 30 (100C Vis.). I think the major reason people were unhappy with the 0w-XX oils were due to the leakage issues the these oils played on poorly sealed engines.

However, Dr. V may not be completely off base... no advance comes with zero compromise. In the case of a oil that is ultra easy on cold starts but nice and tough when heated up is hard to believe it will actually stand up better to thinning than a similar but overall higher visocity oil (e.g. 0w-30 vs.10w-30). Granted I have no data to back this theory up just going by the common arguement of give and take.

Note "Over-all Viscosity" is probably the wrong term to use but I think it gets the point across.

kenshin1204

Using 93. I used 0w-30 synthetic for some time and recently switched to 5w-30 after people advised me that it might help. The ticking still remains after the switch.

These are the other options I was advised to take:
-Use Sea Foam
-Use Lucas

Regarding lifters, I was told the 350z has no lifters. Man, I am confused. The first 2 replies I got on this thread was that the ticking was normal (and I truly wish this was true), but when there's ticking from or by the engine, I really don't think it's normal. I really need help..

ssgohan434

iTrader: (13)

Many of the vq35's have a normal ticking that is emitted. *We don't know what your ticking sounds like. Try and record it and post it up here if you seriously think something is wrong.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

They are called lifters by the Service Manual but they are basically shims on top of the valves that serve as a contact point for the camshafts. A better term is cam followers.

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

I always garage my Z and drive it everyday. I'm pretty sure there was no ticking sound until i changed to castrol 0w30. I'm thinking this is normal 50%. One time i was at the red light next to a 350z, and i could hear his car ticking. same ticking as mine but louder.
i asked many Z and G owners who use or used Castrol 0w30 and they said this brand, and grade oil protects better than 5w30 during start up and at operating temp.

EDIT: I was also told that g35 has TSB on ticking sound from the driver's fuel rail close to the front windshield. Not sure if it was TSB though.

kenshin1204

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t=IMG_0031.mp4

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

That could very well be valve lash tick, and that will be kinda expensive to repair. Sucks that its making that sounds with so low mileage.

Did it always make that noise? Because the valves don't fall out of adjustment I'm wondering if it is due to a build up of carbon on a few of the valves, in which case maybe some SeaFoam would help.

ssgohan434

iTrader: (13)

My dads vq35 in his maxima makes the same ticking noise upon startup, but it goes away after warming up.
Which 0w30 synthetic did you try before? & which 5w30 oil are you trying right now?
This noise appears whether engine is cold/warm/or has been idling or driven a while?

kenshin1204

So I am considering using SeaFoam, but planning to avoid injecting it into the oil. Supposedly, I have to change the oil in about 200 miles after using seafoam and I just did a oil change last week...

kenshin1204

Used Castrol Synthetic 0w-30, then switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Yeah not in the oil but directly into the combustion chamber to loosen up some of that carbon build-up. My machinst suggested water into a vacum line when I asked him how he cleaned up dirty valve build-up. But I think SeaFoam is a little easier because it is a petrolium based product. I've used it in the upper vac line on the back of the throttle body and had no problems, but I would warn against possible plug fowling. Also note it will take about 30-50 miles to blow out all the left over fluid through the system once your done.

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

Can you explain more on where to use seafoam? Where is the combustion chamber? IIRC, long time ago, i heard one of the 350z members saying that seafoam is not good for our engine..so i would do more research on this on our engine.

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like you definitely have a problem in ur engine. My ticking sound is not that crazy.

bluebadge

Ok, So I have the exact same ticking noise. '04 Z, 123k miles. I tried the seafoam treatment (undid the brake assist line and let it suck a third into the manifold) which blew out a bunch of smoke, that was expected. However didn't fix the noise. Also put a third in a tank of gas, ran that through also no change. I'm a bit nervous to slap the remaining third in my oil, as I also recently had an oil change (tick was there prior to oil change). How about the Lucas Oil Stabilizer? any joy with that from anyone?

I know I should probably take my Z to a Nissan dealer for them to look it over, the only thing is I have never had good luck with dealerships, only ever had bad experiences.

I was getting ready to trade up to a 370 and now that's looking like it's going to be tough to do until I have rectified this issue!!

If anyone has had this issue and was able to remedy it, I'd love to hear what you did (serious answers only please!)

Cheers
Bluebadge

sonoriansZ

iTrader: (2)

Sticky lifter or bent valve.

bluebadge

Ok, so I fired up my Z this morning, temp was about 39 degrees outside, and I didn't hear the tick? after the engine had warmed the tick returned, this leads me to beleive it is a shim/lifter issue as the viscosity of my oil was thicker due to the cold. Going to try the Lucas Oil Stabilizer that stuff looks as thick as molasses!

bluebadge

Ok, so I always like to post follow ups after an issue has been resolved (well for me at least!) I inspected my drive belts yesterday and noticed that the one to the right (a/c belt) was cracked and there were bald spots on it. So I went and bought 2 new drive belts (you have to take both off to change the a/c belt so you might as well change both), Replaced them... and voila! engine tick had gone!!! I am still trying to figure out why I was getting a metallic tick, but I think the reason was this...

The idler pulley has an adjuster on it to increase the upward vertical tension on the belt, on a new belt the tension at all points passing the pulley would be even, however with a worn belt with bald spots would cause the pressure on some points of the belt to be less, and when the belt passes over the idler pulley it may create a metallic tick as the idler drops due to lack of momentary tension... Just a theory!

I would definatley check your drive belts if you are experincing a tick, it cost me $40 for the belts (Advance Auto), a few bruises and about an hour of my time, lol. I am no way a mechanic of any proportion but was able to do this. There is a how to guide in the forums (link below).

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...very-easy.html

good luck.

BB

SSNOS

iTrader: (9)

If the ticking resolved after the belts were changed, I would have to say that you're due to replace one or both tensioner pulleys. I had a pulley go bad and had pretty loud ticking and sounds like metal grinding. I suspect the belt tension was changed with the new belts and the tensioner has more pressure on it now so the sound has gone away. You still may have a worn tensioner bearing and eventually need a replacement.

On another note. 0wXX synthetic is not reccomended by some because synthetic base stocks have the viscosity of the cold temp rating and they put modifiers in it to act like the warm viscosity at running temp. So a 0w20 has a base stock of 0 with modifiers to act like a 20 at running temp. Useing the the oil too long may cause the modifiers to be depleted thus returning the oil to the 0 base stock all the time.

archangele

Hi,

I have an 04 Z and it too makes a constant light ticking. Does it whether hot or cold. But mine sounds more like the light tick I hear in my Mustang (1990 5.oL) which comes from that car's fuel injectors. I actually used a mechanic's stethascope on the Mustang and traced that one's noise to the fuel injectors. I'll have to give that a try with this Z. I will admit, I have never heard a uniform constant ticking from a belt. But nothing is impossible when it comes to car issues.

kenshin1204

So here's the rundown. I contacted Nissan corporate and informed them of my situation. They advised me to get a diagnostic from a authorized Nissan service center and they may be able to help. Dropped my car off and after a few hours, mechanic advises me that it may be an issue with my exhaust valve and it seems like it isn't affecting my engine. To further analyze, he will have to take my engine apart, which the labor alone costs $500~$600. After the engine is taken apart, he will advise me of the accurate problem and i would have to decide to pay for the repair (approx $3~$4k). I contacted Nissan and spoke to a rep in the escalation dept. I advised him that I'll pay for the outrageous diagnostic fee as long as they can pay for any repairs needed. They firmly rejected. i ended up paying for a diagnostic fee of $154 in which the mechanic didn't provide me with an accurate diagnostic... Now i'm trying to figure out how I can put Nissan on the spotlight and show consumers of Nissans poor car qualities.

FYI, I only have 27k on this car and this prob started around 15k miles. yes the car is out of warranty due to the year of the model, but really?! I pampered this car and took great care of it. Shouldn't an engine start having problems after 80k (this is being fair)? Does anyone have ideas to expose their BS quality?