How I corrected my P0345 and P0303 engine light code
#1
How I corrected my P0345 and P0303 engine light code
I wanted to post this because I noticed that a lot of threads are created about individuals throwing engine light codes but know one ever updates the thread on how the issue was resolved or if they ever even resolved the issue.
So, here is my story on how I corrected the p0345 and p0303 engine light code. This started awhile back; my car would have difficulties starting from a cold start. Then my car started idling really rough and my rpm's would drop so low the car seemed as if it was on the brink of stalling.
At one point the car would randomly die on the highway without any warning but the engine would start back up after dying. The engine light would come on and then randomly go off while driving; you could tell there was a loss of power compared to normal. Also, I noticed that the car began to smell like gas. I'm assuming that I had multiple issues due to throwing multiple codes and the car smelling like gas (possibly the injector was dumping to much gas). The P0345 code is for bank 2 crank position sensor; so I replaced the bank 2 position sensor using a auto zone sensor (I know go oem, blah).
The symptoms decreased but the car still didn't idle well and I felt like the car was lacking power compared to baseline but this intervention did turn off the engine light. The p0303 code is thrown when there is a cylinder 3 misfire. I then replaced the cylinder 3 spark plug and the fuel injector for only that particular cylinder.
After replacing the cam position sensor on bank 2; the spark plug on cylinder 3 and replacing the fuel injector on cylinder 3 the car idled properly and the car then drove like normal again. So, I hope this can help anyone out that is having this same issue with their car. My car currently has 123,000 miles on the odometer.
So, here is my story on how I corrected the p0345 and p0303 engine light code. This started awhile back; my car would have difficulties starting from a cold start. Then my car started idling really rough and my rpm's would drop so low the car seemed as if it was on the brink of stalling.
At one point the car would randomly die on the highway without any warning but the engine would start back up after dying. The engine light would come on and then randomly go off while driving; you could tell there was a loss of power compared to normal. Also, I noticed that the car began to smell like gas. I'm assuming that I had multiple issues due to throwing multiple codes and the car smelling like gas (possibly the injector was dumping to much gas). The P0345 code is for bank 2 crank position sensor; so I replaced the bank 2 position sensor using a auto zone sensor (I know go oem, blah).
The symptoms decreased but the car still didn't idle well and I felt like the car was lacking power compared to baseline but this intervention did turn off the engine light. The p0303 code is thrown when there is a cylinder 3 misfire. I then replaced the cylinder 3 spark plug and the fuel injector for only that particular cylinder.
After replacing the cam position sensor on bank 2; the spark plug on cylinder 3 and replacing the fuel injector on cylinder 3 the car idled properly and the car then drove like normal again. So, I hope this can help anyone out that is having this same issue with their car. My car currently has 123,000 miles on the odometer.
#2
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Nice to see a post about how to diagnose and solve a problem for a change. The broader lesson here is the Nissan onboard diagnostics are exacting and helpful, but only if you take the time to learn how to use them. Too many Z33 owners post up their problems here and hope somebody comes, takes them by the hand and solves their particular problem. Not the way it works.
#4
I'm updating the thread once again. I now have a cylinder 4 misfire engine light on with a code: p0304. I'm going to buy a injector for that cylinder and a spark plug to see if that corrects the problem and will chime back in. I think once z's start to get a little older they start burning fuel injectors coils. The good news is that I haven't received a engine light on cylinder 3 again since replacing the injector and spark plug. I'm also, thinking about replacing the crankshaft sensor but I will see if the issue is first resolved by the fuel injector and spark plug on cylinder 4. Hopefully, we will get some answers to resolve these issues since I'm taking it step by step. It is a pain in the *** but whatever, lol.
#5
ok; so first of all my dumb *** for got to reconnect the hose that is suppose to be connected to the underside of the intake when I replaced the fuel injector/spark plug on cylinder 3 and the camshaft sensor. So, today I replaced the spark plug on cylinder 4 and reconnected the hose to the intake. The spark plug that I pulled from cylinder 4 still looked in good condition and didn't notice any oil on them or in the cylinder tube but I replaced it anyway since I had things apart. The engine light went off once again and the idle is smooth and rev's smoothly. I took the car out for a spin and everything seemed fine; no engine light back on yet. I will keep this updated and let everyone know if the problem is corrected or i continue to have issues.
#6
Retired Admin
iTrader: (95)
Thanks for posting your experience.
I've had misfire codes a few times in the past. I never did anything about it other than clear the CEL (via key method or OBD reader) then restart the engine. Come to think about it, the 3-4 times it happened to me was after the engine had well over 100K, was running 1 step colder plugs, and in colder Chicago weather. Haven't had the misfire issue after switching back to regular plugs or with the new engine.
I've had misfire codes a few times in the past. I never did anything about it other than clear the CEL (via key method or OBD reader) then restart the engine. Come to think about it, the 3-4 times it happened to me was after the engine had well over 100K, was running 1 step colder plugs, and in colder Chicago weather. Haven't had the misfire issue after switching back to regular plugs or with the new engine.
#7
Thanks for posting your experience.
I've had misfire codes a few times in the past. I never did anything about it other than clear the CEL (via key method or OBD reader) then restart the engine. Come to think about it, the 3-4 times it happened to me was after the engine had well over 100K, was running 1 step colder plugs, and in colder Chicago weather. Haven't had the misfire issue after switching back to regular plugs or with the new engine.
I've had misfire codes a few times in the past. I never did anything about it other than clear the CEL (via key method or OBD reader) then restart the engine. Come to think about it, the 3-4 times it happened to me was after the engine had well over 100K, was running 1 step colder plugs, and in colder Chicago weather. Haven't had the misfire issue after switching back to regular plugs or with the new engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lt_Ballzacki
Brakes & Suspension
39
08-06-2021 06:19 AM