'06 Revup - Some maintenance questions
07-27-2015, 06:50 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
'06 Revup - Some maintenance questions
Hi,
Long time lurker, now proud owner and member
I've bought european '06 rev up this month and I'm not really sure if some things are how they
should be or just issues. I've read many threads already but it didn't really help me. I really hope
you could point out what's wrong. Here we go :
1. First thing I noticed, when I accelerate hard and change gear aggressively (on high revs 5800-6500)
meaning kick the clutch pedal and release it fast. There's audible enough *thump* in the rear. It's not
a metalic sound, it's like muffled sound of hammer hitting stiff rubber. It's most noticable on 1-2 and 2-3 transitions.
Some say it's natural because differential is engaging, some say it may be differential bushings. I think it's the
latter or maybe I'm wrong. Shifting is smooth, car doesn't shake or dip and acceleration doesn't have any lag so I don't
think the clutch is slipping.
2. When I release the clutch I hear quiet whirring. It's not as loud as many videos on youtube when you hear
a really audible, metallic sound like strong friction. Again, my mechanic said that it's nothing to worry and
that's the sound of gearbox working.
3. When idling on standstill I notice that once for about 3 seconds the engine drops ca. 50 RPM giving
the car a very small shake. Spark plugs were checked, no errors on computer, air filter slightly dirty.
Some other guy, a mechanic specializing in 350Z (didn't check mine in his garage) says it's very typical for Z's.
4. The second day I drove my 350Z, I got the pedal to the metal on 1st gear(on optimal engine temp.) and noticed
that suddenly my clutch pedal has some play while released and it stayed that way. There's almost no resistance
on first 1" or 1-1/2"when depressing the clutch pedal. Ignoring that, clutch pedal works ok. It just annoys me
that I have this extra travel. My mechanic said that's good for a clutch pedal to have that amount of play
5. When driving or idling on standstil I hear some squeaking coming from gearstick area. It's like plastic
rubbing against each other (normal, cheap plastic interior issue) It's not constant, it's pretty random but
rather frequent. I want to know if it really is plastic or is there a gearbox/gearstick issue that causes
this sound.
6. Sometimes clutch pedal vibrates and has less resistance, but I think it's my fault ie. when I accelerate moderately or more, I tend to hold
clutch pedal for too long when clutch engages. I think it's the reaction of clutch heating. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Thank you in advance and what a car! So proud to make my dream come true
!
Long time lurker, now proud owner and member
I've bought european '06 rev up this month and I'm not really sure if some things are how they
should be or just issues. I've read many threads already but it didn't really help me. I really hope
you could point out what's wrong. Here we go :
1. First thing I noticed, when I accelerate hard and change gear aggressively (on high revs 5800-6500)
meaning kick the clutch pedal and release it fast. There's audible enough *thump* in the rear. It's not
a metalic sound, it's like muffled sound of hammer hitting stiff rubber. It's most noticable on 1-2 and 2-3 transitions.
Some say it's natural because differential is engaging, some say it may be differential bushings. I think it's the
latter or maybe I'm wrong. Shifting is smooth, car doesn't shake or dip and acceleration doesn't have any lag so I don't
think the clutch is slipping.
2. When I release the clutch I hear quiet whirring. It's not as loud as many videos on youtube when you hear
a really audible, metallic sound like strong friction. Again, my mechanic said that it's nothing to worry and
that's the sound of gearbox working.
3. When idling on standstill I notice that once for about 3 seconds the engine drops ca. 50 RPM giving
the car a very small shake. Spark plugs were checked, no errors on computer, air filter slightly dirty.
Some other guy, a mechanic specializing in 350Z (didn't check mine in his garage) says it's very typical for Z's.
4. The second day I drove my 350Z, I got the pedal to the metal on 1st gear(on optimal engine temp.) and noticed
that suddenly my clutch pedal has some play while released and it stayed that way. There's almost no resistance
on first 1" or 1-1/2"when depressing the clutch pedal. Ignoring that, clutch pedal works ok. It just annoys me
that I have this extra travel. My mechanic said that's good for a clutch pedal to have that amount of play
5. When driving or idling on standstil I hear some squeaking coming from gearstick area. It's like plastic
rubbing against each other (normal, cheap plastic interior issue) It's not constant, it's pretty random but
rather frequent. I want to know if it really is plastic or is there a gearbox/gearstick issue that causes
this sound.
6. Sometimes clutch pedal vibrates and has less resistance, but I think it's my fault ie. when I accelerate moderately or more, I tend to hold
clutch pedal for too long when clutch engages. I think it's the reaction of clutch heating. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Thank you in advance and what a car! So proud to make my dream come true
!
07-27-2015, 07:41 AM
#2
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Welcome and congrats on your new Z! Most of your questions are on drivetrain issues and from your descriptions, sound like they are within normal specs. Still, let's address the one-by-one:
1) When accelerating hard, you should still be striving to be smooth and easy on your upshifts. Even quick upshifts shouldn't "shock" the driveline, but it sounds like your technique is causing the VLSD to shake a bit. You didn't mention the mileage on your Z, but worn diff bushings could also be a factor.
2) The whirring sound is most likely a slightly sticky throwout bearing. No big concern, but when it comes time to replace your clutch, be sure to replace the throwout bearing at the same time.
3) Normal- the Z's ECM is making minute changes to the air-fuel ratio at a standstill and sometimes moves a bit. Nothing to be worried about.
4) Your mechanic probably meant the clutch was properly adjusted with some free play at the top of the clutch to indicate the clutch was well and truly engaged. You don't want the friction point to be too high for a street-driven car.
5) The Z33 isn't known for having a lot of squeaking issues with the gearshift. That bolt action gearshift on the six-speed is one quality most of us just love about this car! Not sure what you are hearing, but my '03 Z with 94K miles still feels tight and has few squeaks that I'm aware of.
6) Do not hold any pressure on the clutch pedal unless you are getting ready to shift. It builds up heat exponentially and results in needless wear and tear. I even shift into neutral at stop lights or traffic delays and take a bit of strain off the clutch slave to prevent heat build-up. Maybe that's one reason my clutch continues to held up well.
Hope that helps and I wish I could drive my Z on some of your roads!
1) When accelerating hard, you should still be striving to be smooth and easy on your upshifts. Even quick upshifts shouldn't "shock" the driveline, but it sounds like your technique is causing the VLSD to shake a bit. You didn't mention the mileage on your Z, but worn diff bushings could also be a factor.
2) The whirring sound is most likely a slightly sticky throwout bearing. No big concern, but when it comes time to replace your clutch, be sure to replace the throwout bearing at the same time.
3) Normal- the Z's ECM is making minute changes to the air-fuel ratio at a standstill and sometimes moves a bit. Nothing to be worried about.
4) Your mechanic probably meant the clutch was properly adjusted with some free play at the top of the clutch to indicate the clutch was well and truly engaged. You don't want the friction point to be too high for a street-driven car.
5) The Z33 isn't known for having a lot of squeaking issues with the gearshift. That bolt action gearshift on the six-speed is one quality most of us just love about this car! Not sure what you are hearing, but my '03 Z with 94K miles still feels tight and has few squeaks that I'm aware of.
6) Do not hold any pressure on the clutch pedal unless you are getting ready to shift. It builds up heat exponentially and results in needless wear and tear. I even shift into neutral at stop lights or traffic delays and take a bit of strain off the clutch slave to prevent heat build-up. Maybe that's one reason my clutch continues to held up well.
Hope that helps and I wish I could drive my Z on some of your roads!
The following users liked this post:
Bilazaurus (07-27-2015)
07-27-2015, 08:07 AM
#3
New Member
Welcome and congrats on your new Z! Most of your questions are on drivetrain issues and from your descriptions, sound like they are within normal specs. Still, let's address the one-by-one:
1) When accelerating hard, you should still be striving to be smooth and easy on your upshifts. Even quick upshifts shouldn't "shock" the driveline, but it sounds like your technique is causing the VLSD to shake a bit. You didn't mention the mileage on your Z, but worn diff bushings could also be a factor.
2) The whirring sound is most likely a slightly sticky throwout bearing. No big concern, but when it comes time to replace your clutch, be sure to replace the throwout bearing at the same time.
3) Normal- the Z's ECM is making minute changes to the air-fuel ratio at a standstill and sometimes moves a bit. Nothing to be worried about.
4) Your mechanic probably meant the clutch was properly adjusted with some free play at the top of the clutch to indicate the clutch was well and truly engaged. You don't want the friction point to be too high for a street-driven car.
5) The Z33 isn't known for having a lot of squeaking issues with the gearshift. That bolt action gearshift on the six-speed is one quality most of us just love about this car! Not sure what you are hearing, but my '03 Z with 94K miles still feels tight and has few squeaks that I'm aware of.
6) Do not hold any pressure on the clutch pedal unless you are getting ready to shift. It builds up heat exponentially and results in needless wear and tear. I even shift into neutral at stop lights or traffic delays and take a bit of strain off the clutch slave to prevent heat build-up. Maybe that's one reason my clutch continues to held up well.
Hope that helps and I wish I could drive my Z on some of your roads!
1) When accelerating hard, you should still be striving to be smooth and easy on your upshifts. Even quick upshifts shouldn't "shock" the driveline, but it sounds like your technique is causing the VLSD to shake a bit. You didn't mention the mileage on your Z, but worn diff bushings could also be a factor.
2) The whirring sound is most likely a slightly sticky throwout bearing. No big concern, but when it comes time to replace your clutch, be sure to replace the throwout bearing at the same time.
3) Normal- the Z's ECM is making minute changes to the air-fuel ratio at a standstill and sometimes moves a bit. Nothing to be worried about.
4) Your mechanic probably meant the clutch was properly adjusted with some free play at the top of the clutch to indicate the clutch was well and truly engaged. You don't want the friction point to be too high for a street-driven car.
5) The Z33 isn't known for having a lot of squeaking issues with the gearshift. That bolt action gearshift on the six-speed is one quality most of us just love about this car! Not sure what you are hearing, but my '03 Z with 94K miles still feels tight and has few squeaks that I'm aware of.
6) Do not hold any pressure on the clutch pedal unless you are getting ready to shift. It builds up heat exponentially and results in needless wear and tear. I even shift into neutral at stop lights or traffic delays and take a bit of strain off the clutch slave to prevent heat build-up. Maybe that's one reason my clutch continues to held up well.
Hope that helps and I wish I could drive my Z on some of your roads!
Great answers!
07-27-2015, 08:18 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you very much for quick and comprehensive reply
My Z has 90.000 kilometer on odometer.
Ad. 1 When changing gears rather slowly (about 1,5 sec) it's fine, no shake, no rattle, no thump. How difficult is to check if my bearing is fine or needs replacement?
Ad. 4 I guess that's what he meant. But I really would like the clutch pedal to have less travel. It's position is too high for me. Is there any way to shorten the travel without upsetting the engage point? By writing "Friction point too high" - what does "high" mean? Is high closer to the floor or closer to resting position?
Ad 6. I also use neutral and release the clutch when standing still and by holding clutch I mean holding it on engage position while applying a little gas for a longer time (not even a full 1 sec). It's a habit that I acquired when driving my e39 which upsetted the car while applying clutch on 1st gear without holding it with gas.
Once again, thanks!
My Z has 90.000 kilometer on odometer.
Ad. 1 When changing gears rather slowly (about 1,5 sec) it's fine, no shake, no rattle, no thump. How difficult is to check if my bearing is fine or needs replacement?
Ad. 4 I guess that's what he meant. But I really would like the clutch pedal to have less travel. It's position is too high for me. Is there any way to shorten the travel without upsetting the engage point? By writing "Friction point too high" - what does "high" mean? Is high closer to the floor or closer to resting position?
Ad 6. I also use neutral and release the clutch when standing still and by holding clutch I mean holding it on engage position while applying a little gas for a longer time (not even a full 1 sec). It's a habit that I acquired when driving my e39 which upsetted the car while applying clutch on 1st gear without holding it with gas.
Once again, thanks!
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