vertico

Hi Everyone,
I'm been lurking and popping in and out of the forum for several months now while I pieced together and installed my NX kit in my 2006 G35.

This is the second car I have outfitted with an NX kit (the first being a 1997 Civic when I was young lol)

Well i've had my G for about 6 years now and ever since I sold my previous NX kit I have been itching to get the feeling back

I have a lot to post here so keep checking the thread for updates.

I originally bought my as an NX proton kit with a 5lb bottle. I quickly decided I didn't like that I couldn't open the proton solenoid box to inspect or service the solenoids because NX riveted the box shut. Also no where could I find what solenoids were inside so it led me to believe that it has their cheapo mainline solenoids in it. I ditched the Proton box and immediately upgraded to their "Stage 6" solenoids which appeared to be their standard solenoid for the big boy kits.

One thing I would like to note for anyone with a revup G35 who needs to tap the throttle signal off the throttle body is that you want the *WHITE* wire. Most 350z users need the green but for our car it is the white one. If in doubt either consult the factory service manual or use a WOT switch under the gas pedal!

Immediately ditched the proton box for the NX Stage 6 Solenoids. As you can see I have already ran the nitrous hose through the back firewall to the solenoids that I've mounted. I ordered some right angle adapter installed them because the bend on the hose was too sharp without them:


Here i've put a towel down under the fuel feed line in preparation of lots of fuel coming out. surprisingly I didn't get too much. I had a plastic cup ready just in case too!



Purchased my fuel adapter off of ebay for about about $50. Quality appears to be excellent:



Another shot of the fuel adapter:



Note that all my lines i've covered the ends with masking tape while working to ensure crud doesn't enter the lines causing bad juju.



I picked up this Milwaukee step drill bit to help drill the firewall and hole for the arming switch. It was a little pricey but OMG did it make it EASY!
I seriously had a perfect hole in my firewall in under 5 seconds!


Always use grommets when running anything through a firewall! This is just for the nitrous line but still, don't want that line rubbing into the firewall over time destroying a $70 hose and possibly leaking all your juice!



Pic of grommet installed after cutting the firewall hall with the Milwaukee stepped bit:



Fuel Tap now installed:



As most people know DONT use teflon tape on nitrous lines because pieces can break off and clock your solenoids however this Permatex teflon paste sealant works perfectly:



Fuel line / fuel adapter now installed:



I didn't get a shot of me tapping the yellow cable into my ignition coil however you can see it ran here through the main grommet which is also where my nitrous line runs:



A problem I have noted is the vents on this piece sit directly over the firewall grommet. Who's brilliant idea was that!? Lets fix it......



I used some Gorilla tape on the underside to completely seal it from the elements.



I like to fuse ALL my main positive cables and every nitrous kit should have this but mine did not come with one. I purchased this water proof fuse holder off of ebay for cheap. It worked out nicely.



To shield the all important relay from the elements I took some advise offered in the forum and wrapped it in electrical tape:



Love my Kobalt tools! Hey nice wheels too!



The G35 has a stock battery distribution block (does 350z?) which already has my amp on it. It was simple to add my nitrous positive fuse to it:
I wish all cars came with this!



The blue wire on my relay was not needed so I removed it!


From Amazon I found this awesome kit with multiple colored wires. Also quite cheap and excellent quality!



I do not use T-taps or crimps in my install as they are simply not reliable. I use a military type splice method. Here is a basic form just joning two wires together. Later I will cover my method for an actual splice which is quite similar.

Take two wires to join and strip off about 1" or a little less then twist them tightly together ensure you you are wrapping both ends onto each other:


Add one small electrical tape to join them:


Add another longer piece of electrical tape and strap a zip tie EXACTLY over the wire bundle:



Random tip: your interior fuse box cover makes an excellent temporary cover to place over the positive side of your battery to ensure that you don't accidentally short anything out while running your hoses/wires


Solenoids mounted, picked up some wire loom to shield the solenoid wires running back behind the firewall. Who knows what lurks back there


Using the same method as above to wire up the solenoids.
For a bit of my theory, I ran a single heavy gauge positive and negative behind the firewall as opposed to two sets. This cuts down on wiring and ensure that if one of those wires happens to break then both solenoids will not be activated.



If you don't have a real pair of wire strippers get one! So easy



Here is my tapping method, i used the strippers above to open up the wire shielding. I then used a metal dental pick to CAREFULLY spread apart a hole into the wire i needed to splice into.
***Again as I mentioned at the beginning of this post Revup G35 owners should tap the WHITE wire. I did not discover this until later and had to redo this***


Then I take the new wire, stick it through the hole and wrap it around tightly. I seem to be missing the last pic where I wrap just like above, twice with electrical tape and then a single zip tie directly over the wire bundle


Use my step drill bit to drill the hole for the nozzle bung into the intake.
Use blue loctite on the bung nut to keep it secure:


Nozzle and jets installed! Starting out with 35 shot jets for initial testing


Bottle mounted, used an inline adapter and extra hose so I could plug in some accessories a bit easier than if they were on the bottle:



I have a leak!



Oh wow I really have a leak! Turned out my nitrous gauge was bad. Removed it for now, will have a replacement soon.


Final shots of solenoids











Yeahhhh





So right now i'm setup for a 35 shot. Over the weekend I plan to do some a/f logging and will bump up to 50 shot. Plan to stop at 75 shot, no rush to get to it.

The interesting bit here is that on my Honda I could barely feel the 35 shot when I first set it up. However on my G35 when I went for my first test and the 35 shot engaged I was surprised by exactly how powerful it felt! The torque is quite strong.

Looking forward to upping the shot. Upgrades I hope to have soon is a 10lb bottle with lightning valve (Should have started with it), bottle heater and one of the CNC billet bottle holders, an inline nitrous filter and remote bottle opener.

vertico

I don't know if it's impressive or sad that this post has 1,200 views in just a few days and not a single reply.

I'm at 50 shot now, had a slight technical mishap with my mother bottle and due to that am nearly out of juice so will need to pick up more soon.
Have 10lb bottle showing up tomorrow :-D

What do you say folks?.......Do I dyno it? Raise it to 75 shot? Raise to 100 shot!? Swap the pistons/rods and do direct port??

Wakey wakey

BakaN20

iTrader: (26)

Don't take it personal. A basic nitrous install on a vq has been done numerous times and everybody has seen it. I'm glad that people still doing nitrous on a vq though, good for you and clean install.

bruthaboost

iTrader: (2)

Great install. Any updates with dyno results? I'd argue nitrous is the best hp/dollar mod out there (for OEM NA motors).

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Good pictures showing everything. Make sure you get a bottle heater, at minimum, and monitor the AFR (on dyno or with a guage).

turboed350z

How long does the bottle last you? I believe youre running a 5lbs bottle right? Im thinking of a 15lbs since the closest refill station is like 1 hour away.

Also, have yiu tuned it yet? Any idea how much power youre making on 50 shot?

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Only three things I usually do differently... Solder the wires before wrapping and I wrap the first layer with self vulcanizing tape, then electrical tape. Third thing requires a bit of money. Get another fuel solenoid and plumb it in parallel to the other one. If a nitrous solenoid fails, the car goes rich, you bog but no damage. If a fuel solenoid fails, you go lean and could frag the engine. The purpose of having two in parallel is that if one fails, you still have fuel.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

+1 on soldering.

As for having 2 fuel solenoids, that would work. Might as wire them separately, too.
Alternative to that would be a lean cut off switch.

350Z_Al

Nice install.

I would have preferred to see proper solder joints instead of just twist and tape wiring though.