Somthing this site lacks are tech articles... hope some of you can find this useful.

350Evo Sway Bar Installation

Tools needed:
18" breaker bar (1/2+ recommended) / impact wrench if you have it
17mm socket
14mm socket
14mm long socket
10mm socket
hefty ratchet
set of Allen wrenches (I don't remember the size)
screwdriver
socket extension
plenty of Beer

Rear Sway Bar
Step 1:
Open a beer. Beer is an essential tradition for working on a car, and this step is MANDATORY.


Step 2
Put car on jackstands. If you don't know how to do this, please quit now. Also, remove the rear left wheel.

Step 3:
Unscrew / unbolt diffuser thing.


Step 4:
Unbolt the 14mm bolt that connecdts the endlinks to the sway bars. Don't pull out the endlink screw from the end of the sway bars just yet though.


Step 5:
Remove the 14mm bolts from the brackets that connect the sway bar to the chassis.
[imghttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid66/p8a4f20cbaf416d7017b4176279688954/fbe0a5cd.jpg[/img]

Step 6:
Now that the sway bar is completely disconnected, remove the endlinks from the ends of the sway bar. You will notice that because of the way the sway bar is bent. So, unbolt the 14mm bolt that holds the exhaust flange bracket between the muffler and the resonator. The one bolt is in the center of this photo:


Step 7:
Pull down on the muffler and weasel the sway bar out towards of the direction of the rear driver's side wheel well. Don't get too frustrated, it will come out, it's just a tedious process. Hey, if my weak *** can do it, so can you.

Step 8:
Line up the OEM sway bar to your new 350Evo sway bar. Using an allen wrench, remove the billet bracket thingee on the 350Evo sway bar and align it to the position on the OEM sway bar. Make sure that the allen wrench ends will face downward once the sway bar is on the car.


Step 9:
If you haven't moved on to a 2nd beer by now, you need to now.

Step 10:
Back under the car now (after you've had a few swigs), hang the 350Evo sway bar to the endlinks. The writing should be visible right side up from the back of the car. Attach the 14mm bolt to the endlink screws, but don't tighten. Align the sway bar bracket with the polyurethane bushings.


Step 11:
Adjust the billet sway bar brackets and tighten down with an allen wrench. Be sure that the sway bar is centered.


Step 12:
Reattach the brackets with the 14mm bolts and tighten. Tighten endlink bolks. Make sure you get torque using that breaker bar. Reattach diffuser thingee. Put on rear left wheel, lower of jackstands, and be sure to retorque those lugnuts. Oila, rear has been finished.

[Thought I took a photo, but guess I forgot]

Front Sway Bar
Step 1:
Raise car, put on jackstands, blah blah blah. You don't have to remove the wheels.

Step 2:
Remove belly pan and all those 10mm screws. You'll also find these a little plastic shield on the passenger side near the sway bar bracket there. Remove it, and you may need a screwdriver to get those grommets out.

Step 3:
You'll need the breaker bar here. Unbolt the 17mm bolt from the endlinks, but don't disconnect the endlinks from the ends of the sway bar yet.


Step 4:
Unbolt the 14mm bolts from each of the sway bar brackets. The long 14mm socket and extension are your friend here. The bolts are quite long, and will burn many calories.


Step 5:
Remove endlinks from sway bar, and remove from car.

Step 6:
Like the rear bar, align the billet brackets on the sway bar to the positions of the ones on the OEM sway bar. Make sure that the allen wrench ends will face downward once the sway bar is on the car.

Step 7:
**Here's where I had my problem, and causes my much frustration. The thickness of the ends of the sway bars too is great for the length of the endlink screws. So, I ended up grinding down the sway bars with a Dremel. I also had to use a different bolt to attach the sway bar to the endlinks since the OEM bolt threads are receded. No photos of that since I was running out of daylight.

Reattach the new sway bar to the endlinks, bolt the sucker on, and reattach the brackets. Also align the billet bracket and tighten.

Step 8:
When torquing down the brackets, you may encounter some difficulty. If you find a persistent bolt, loosen up the one diagonal to it, and then reattempt. After a turn or two, it'll get easier. Torque down all those 14mm bolts, and then torque down the endlinks.


Step 9:
Reattach plastic thingee on the passenger side front sway bar bracket, and reattach belly pan. Lower car, and enjoy!

Initial analysis: the car really turns in sharp, and when I took it around the block with only the rear 350Evo sway bar on medium (and OEM front bar on), the rear end got happy really easily, whether I throttle lifted in the turn or simply was a little too heavy with the right pedal). With both settings on medium, the car feels completely different, and much more competent on high speed onramps.

My only issue is that somehow my steering wheel is now angled right about 1-2 degrees, and my alignment is a bit off too. How this happen, I have no idea...

More detailed review will follow in a few days, as I'm going to Summit Point tomorrow to test out the new setup. Speaking of which, I have to be up in 5 hours to drive there, so I better finish this writeup...

 

Thanks for the write up- I love step 1. Can't wait to read your review after the long drive. After meeting with BJ and seeing these sway bars first hand I'm considering swapping out my Cusco's. Keep us informed.

 

I just put on the Borla dual, will the rear anti-sway interfere with these pipes? I really want to tighten up my suspension! These look great!

 

Thanks for the write-up! I do have a question for you though. Do you have any idea exactly how much longer that end link bolt needs to be on the front? I'm planning on installing my bars very soon, and it would make life a hell of a lot easier if I had the proper hardware in hand before I tore it apart! I'd rather not grind the bars down if possible. Are we talking a few mm longer, 1/4 inch, etc.? I guess my best bet would be to pull one of those bolts out, and take it and the bar to the hardware store to figure out what would work...what a pain in the ***...grrr. Thanks for the info, and have fun at the track!

 

Cool.... thanks for the write up, I still need to install the front Nismo on Sunday, this helps.

 

About 1/4" longer would do... problem is that the endlink bolt has a ball joint in the endlink assembly itself. I'll be calling BJ tomorrow to discuss the issue further. Good thing is that my bolts are still torqued down well after my track event at Summit this weekend.

Car felt great, more solid, but can get away from you if you don't maintain control. I had a few close calls this weekend, mostly due to me not driving consertively enough through the wet patches mid-turn. Also, one the tires got greasy from heat, I really had to work on car control, and the sway bars do you more opportunity to manipulate the rotation of the car.

 

Jst returned from Watkins Glenn........OK here is the scoop on the front bar


The OEM drop links must be flipped upside down when attaching the 350EVO front bar. The end that attached to the stock OEM bar will now attach to the control arm....and the end that attached to the control arm will now attach to the sway bar.
I will post pictures tomorrow

 

BJ,
Can you post the pictures?

 

bump...

 

Are the photos showing up for everybody?

There are newer versions of the rear bushing along with reinforced brackets that are much better than the v.1 bushings. After 10 months of ownership, I still love these things...

 

No pics.......

 

Note: these instructions are slightly revised.

350Evo Sway Bar Installation

Tools needed:
18" breaker bar (1/2+ recommended) / impact wrench if you have it
17mm socket
14mm socket
14mm long socket
10mm socket
hefty ratchet
set of Allen wrenches (I don't remember the size)
screwdriver
socket extension
plenty of Beer

Rear Sway Bar
Step 1:
Open a beer. Beer is an essential tradition for working on a car, and this step is MANDATORY. (Amstel Light is all I had in my fridge that day, so no making fun of me)

 

Step 2
Put car on jackstands. If you don't know how to do this, please quit now. Also, remove the rear left wheel.

Step 3:
Unscrew / unbolt diffuser thing.

 

Step 4:
Unbolt the 14mm bolt that connecdts the endlinks to the sway bars. Don't pull out the endlink screw from the end of the sway bars just yet though.

 

Step 5:
Remove the 14mm bolts from the brackets that connect the sway bar to the chassis.

 

Step 6:
Now that the sway bar is completely disconnected, remove the endlinks from the ends of the sway bar. You will notice that because of the way the sway bar is bent. So, unbolt the 14mm bolt that holds the exhaust flange bracket between the muffler and the resonator. The one bolt is in the center of this photo:

 

Step 7:
Pull down on the muffler and weasel the sway bar out towards of the direction of the rear driver's side wheel well. Don't get too frustrated, it will come out, it's just a tedious process. Hey, if my weak *** can do it, so can you.

Step 8:
Line up the OEM sway bar to your new 350Evo sway bar. Using an allen wrench, remove the billet bracket thingee on the 350Evo sway bar and align it to the position on the OEM sway bar. Make sure that the allen wrench ends will face downward once the sway bar is on the car. (Note: these are the v.1 bushings, the sway bars are now offer with v.3 bushings with reinforced brackets)

 

Step 9:
If you haven't moved on to a 2nd beer by now, you need to now.

Step 10:
Back under the car now (after you've had a few swigs), hang the 350Evo sway bar to the endlinks. The writing should be visible right side up from the back of the car. Attach the 14mm bolt to the endlink screws, but don't tighten. Align the sway bar bracket with the polyurethane bushings.

 

Step 11:
Adjust the billet sway bar brackets and tighten down with an allen wrench. Be sure that the sway bar is centered.

 

Step 12:
Reattach the brackets with the 14mm bolts and tighten. Tighten endlink bolks. Make sure you get torque using that breaker bar. Reattach diffuser thingee. Put on rear left wheel, lower of jackstands, and be sure to retorque those lugnuts. Oila, rear has been finished.

[Thought I took a photo, but guess I forgot]

Front Sway Bar

Step 1:
Raise car, put on jackstands, blah blah blah. You don't have to remove the wheels.

Step 2:
Remove belly pan and all those 10mm screws. You'll also find these a little plastic shield on the passenger side near the sway bar bracket there. Remove it, and you may need a screwdriver to get those grommets out.

Step 3:
You'll need the breaker bar here. Loosen the 17mm bolt from the endlinks, but don't disconnect the endlinks from the ends of the sway bar yet.