Stock dyno run
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From: Montana
Stock dyno run
Dyno run results.
Stats: Stock 350Z 1400 mi 91 octane Dynojet's factory 4wd dyno SAE corrected
History: I broke the car in by the book. Well mostly. I did have it above 4K every so often but no full throttle or red line. I'm pretty keen on break in procedures. I became a firm believer after I spent the time and properly broke in my shifter motor for the first time. It made a big difference. K&N filter and a home made ground kit. Other than that, nothing to mention.
We made six runs with the last run just to get a pic of the speedo at 155. The battery in the camera went dead right before I tried to take the pic, sorry. Funny thing though. It went to 160mph and was quite close to red line. Maybe the ECU throttled back but since there is so little resistance it just wasn't enough?
OK, The chart has the 4th and 5th runs on it. 4th in red, 5th in blue. Notice the dip at 3600 rpm on the 4th run. That showed up in all the previous runs as well. For the fifth run Joe suggested that we take the filter and filter bracket off. As you can see the dip went away. Several things happened though. The horsepower went up, torque went down and the air/fuel was richer. My guess is that the ECU freaked out and defaulted to it's safe setting.
Cheers,
koryo
Stats: Stock 350Z 1400 mi 91 octane Dynojet's factory 4wd dyno SAE corrected
History: I broke the car in by the book. Well mostly. I did have it above 4K every so often but no full throttle or red line. I'm pretty keen on break in procedures. I became a firm believer after I spent the time and properly broke in my shifter motor for the first time. It made a big difference. K&N filter and a home made ground kit. Other than that, nothing to mention.
We made six runs with the last run just to get a pic of the speedo at 155. The battery in the camera went dead right before I tried to take the pic, sorry. Funny thing though. It went to 160mph and was quite close to red line. Maybe the ECU throttled back but since there is so little resistance it just wasn't enough?
OK, The chart has the 4th and 5th runs on it. 4th in red, 5th in blue. Notice the dip at 3600 rpm on the 4th run. That showed up in all the previous runs as well. For the fifth run Joe suggested that we take the filter and filter bracket off. As you can see the dip went away. Several things happened though. The horsepower went up, torque went down and the air/fuel was richer. My guess is that the ECU freaked out and defaulted to it's safe setting.
Cheers,
koryo
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From: Boston
Originally posted by Hedonist
How many miles do you have on the motor?
How many miles do you have on the motor?
It's funny me and my friend were just talking about it, 20 min ago and he said that a 220 dyno for that car seemed a little low because that would mean over 20% power loss.
He thinks nissan overrated it a little but I think they're right on.
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From: NoVa
sorry, but i hope this isn't the actual run..
i mean shouldn't the car be in backwards? since rear-wheel drive? it seems like the dyno ball is in the front of the garage...
hmmm...
am i seeing things??
but the numbers look great!
i mean shouldn't the car be in backwards? since rear-wheel drive? it seems like the dyno ball is in the front of the garage...
hmmm...
am i seeing things??
but the numbers look great!
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From: Montana
<i mean shouldn't the car be in backwards? since rear-wheel drive? it seems like the dyno ball is in the front of the garage...
I hope that was the actual run. The rear wheels were spinning pretty fast! <juz joking>
It's a 4wd dyno. Two drums. The red section, where the rear wheels are, is fixed. The front black section is on rails and adjusts to fix the wheelbase of the car.
koryo
I hope that was the actual run. The rear wheels were spinning pretty fast! <juz joking>
It's a 4wd dyno. Two drums. The red section, where the rear wheels are, is fixed. The front black section is on rails and adjusts to fix the wheelbase of the car.
koryo
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From: Montana
correction
That last post didn't come out right. Don't want to **** anyone off.
>i mean shouldn't the car be in backwards? since rear-wheel drive? it seems like the dyno ball is in the front of the garage...
I hope that was the actual run. The rear wheels were spinning pretty fast! (juz joking)
It's a 4wd dyno. Two drums. The red section, where the rear wheels are, is fixed. The front black section is on rails and adjusts to fit the wheel base of the car.
koryo
>i mean shouldn't the car be in backwards? since rear-wheel drive? it seems like the dyno ball is in the front of the garage...
I hope that was the actual run. The rear wheels were spinning pretty fast! (juz joking)
It's a 4wd dyno. Two drums. The red section, where the rear wheels are, is fixed. The front black section is on rails and adjusts to fit the wheel base of the car.
koryo
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From: Montana
>Where did you tie those straps to on the car? Do you have a picture of this?
Pictures, umm no. Dyno master folded short straps around the lower control arms then hooked the come-alongs onto them.
>what is koryo anyways??
nickname, my real name is Cory
koryo
Pictures, umm no. Dyno master folded short straps around the lower control arms then hooked the come-alongs onto them.
>what is koryo anyways??
nickname, my real name is Cory
koryo
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From: USA
Re: Stock dyno run
Originally posted by koryo
Dyno run results.
The horsepower went up, torque went down and the air/fuel was richer. My guess is that the ECU freaked out and defaulted to it's safe setting.
Dyno run results.
The horsepower went up, torque went down and the air/fuel was richer. My guess is that the ECU freaked out and defaulted to it's safe setting.
Next time try unhooking the battery and let sit a few minutes. Connect battery and remove the airbox cover. This will reset your ECU. On the 3rd or 4th run you will see higher numbers. The colder and less humid the day the better the numbers too.
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From: Montana
>Next time try unhooking the battery and let sit a few minutes. Connect battery and remove the airbox cover. This will reset your ECU. On the 3rd or 4th run you will see higher numbers.
cool, didn't think of that.
>The colder and less humid the day the better the numbers too.
Umm, that will effect the actual hp number, but this graph has been SAE corrected. Humidity, temperature, barometric pressure are factored in for this correction.
koryo
cool, didn't think of that.
>The colder and less humid the day the better the numbers too.
Umm, that will effect the actual hp number, but this graph has been SAE corrected. Humidity, temperature, barometric pressure are factored in for this correction.
koryo
