luvthez

just a question for the clear bra supporters out there, if you are going to zaino your vehicle when do you install the clear bra, before the clay bar - zaino process or after and why?

jeffw

I think the best thing would be to do a deep clean with the ABC system that Brad4rdHay's recommends (see detailing forum for his detailing/cleaning FAQS) and then touch up with clay if the ABC misses anything. I did both before waxing and my 3M install.

I've read you should not have any wax on underneath the 3M material. However, I had already Zainoed my car when I took it in. Mikeinatlanta (who sometimes posts here) did my install. He did a partial wax strip with Dawn dishwashing detergent. He said that the Zaino doesn't really completely come off. He described the process of the Dawn wash as "scoring" the Zaino. Also, he didn't seem to act like it was a big deal that there was wax on my car.

My install is still curing, but it looks pretty good to me so far. The worst bit being the "orange peel" look of the 3M material. I don't think the Zaino underneath is causing any problems.

BTW, MikeinAtlanta warned me of the dangers of Vinyl headlight covers on polycarbonate HID headlight housings. Apparently there are some problems with heat buildup and the polycarbonate becomes brittle. I had the Invisiguard complete kit (Invisiguard and I think StoneGuard use Vinyl for headlights) for installation. Mike talked me out of it and I got his Dynashield headlight covers instead. I believe that material he used was the 3M eurethane.

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Jeff

Dean

In my opinion, any installer that does not strip residual waxes or polymers (such as Zaino) before installing the 3M paint protection film is not following manufacturer recommendations.

3M instructions:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...GGGl4aRJ2222e-

You must prep the surface with 3M's General Purpose Wax and Adhesive Cleaner. Beware, this stuff is volatile and nasty. (It's primarily Naphtha)



After installing several kits on my own cars (I'm not a professional), I would also say there are several signs of a "sloppy" clear bra install:

* The installer works outdoors. The adhesive film is very unforgiving. Working outdoors and in windy conditions increases the chances of foreign material (i.e. dirt) getting under the film.

* The installer does not clay bar the surface. Even new cars have rail dust and embedded impurities in the paint. The surface must be immaculate before applying the film.

*The installer leaves a more than 1/8" border from the edge of the film to the body panel. DO NOT judge how good a clear bra install is from pictures taken more than 4 feet away. Even a poor installation looks good from a distance.

This pic looks like a good install, but on closer look check out the 1/2" gap on the bumper piece. If you're spending $500-1000 for this service, make sure that you tell your installer that you want PERFECT edge tolerences.





This gap is also too big:



Dean

Dean

Also MikeIn Atlanta's reported statement that Invisiguard and Stongard headlight films are vinyl is false. I have the Stongard film on my 2002 WRX and the Invisiguard film on the 350Z. They are both 3M Scotchcal 40mil film. The labeling is clear.

Dynashield is simply using the same bulk material as Xpel, Stongard and Invisiguard. Concerns about Xenon lights causing brittleness in the film applies to all the brands.

(Note: Invisiguard uses factory cut Xpel headlight film)

Dean

jeffw

Not sure if he used the 3M wax cleaner. I just happened to see him starting the dawn wash before I left and asked about it. He does have an air filtered installation shop with bright work lights (no outdoors installation). My seams are much, much better than the pictures you have displayed. Pretty much right up to the point before the curvature of the metal/plastic panels begin.

Oh, and he does clay as needed. But he requests that cars be brought in already clean without road tar or bug guts (except what you pick up on the drive out to his place).

As for the headlight film, I can't say for sure. My Xpel headlight film does "feel" different than the body panel film did. But that may just be on account of the thickness and maybe a lack of clear coat on the headlight covers? The paper backing says 3M on the back, but who's to say that 3M doesn't make a vinyl film too? In any case, hopefully the thinner film I now have for the headlights will hopefully help with heat build-up.

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Jeff

Dean

The 3M headlight film is 40mil thick, as opposed to the paint film which is typically 8mil. The Xpel headlight film on my wife's 330i looks like new after 2 years despite the Xenon headlights. It is my understanding that HID/Xenon lights actually draw less electrical power and produce less heat than standard halogen lights.

Can anyone substantiate the claim that 3M Scotchcal film yellows with Xenon headlights?

Dean

krinkov

Dont bother waxing your car since all wax has to be stripped prior to installation to insure proper adhesion of the film. On an install we first wash, then clay bar, then prep the surface with 3M adhesive remover or Dupont FirstKleen before an install. HIDs and Xenons draw less power then conventional halogens, HIDs were first used in racing for this reason. I havnt seen headlight covers yellow, in any case they come with a 4 year warrenty covering the cover and/or any damage occuring to your light while installed.