why does my car handle like crap now???
#21
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Originally Posted by mpowers
Unless the number you are reading have a negative in front of them, what you are reading is toe out. But you are within factory specs, Nissan recomends .0 to .1 of toe out, with a total toe of .2 . Caster may very well be the culprit. I would recomend taking the car to the dealer for the tsb, what are you current caster readings, or better yet post the whole alignment spec for both front and rear.
okay so now i am getting confused. from all of the threads i have read on here, when reading the toe settings the + number refers to toe in and a negative - number refers to toe out. I am getting this from a lot of the threads in the reparing section.
in fact this is confirmed by nissans specs. i know that they call for total toe in and the number is given in a positive number.
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When the front of the wheels point into each other is toe in, when they point away from each other it is toe out. Another way is the front of the wheel simply pionts to the inside of the car its toe in, when the front of the wheel points to the out side of the car its toe out. The front of the wheel being the centerline of the hub extending to the front of the car.
If you caster is off on one side compared to the other this will cause a pull, try to imagine skiing, if one ski leads the other one by a few inches you path will track to the lesser. This is best way I can explain caster with out a diagram or something.
Check out a book called High Performance Handleing, Books a Million, Barnes & Noble, etc
If you caster is off on one side compared to the other this will cause a pull, try to imagine skiing, if one ski leads the other one by a few inches you path will track to the lesser. This is best way I can explain caster with out a diagram or something.
Check out a book called High Performance Handleing, Books a Million, Barnes & Noble, etc
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Originally Posted by mpowers
I went and looked in the serice manual and see what you are reading,
it reads *Total Toe-in*
what it should say is Total Toe.
Hope this helps you understand it better.
it reads *Total Toe-in*
what it should say is Total Toe.
Hope this helps you understand it better.
Sorry but I think you got it almost right.
It depends how you measure it. Look at http://www.lasercannon.com/images/Z/...alignmnet2.jpg
I gurantee you that the TSB has not a wrong wording. And for the front they say "avoid toe out at all cost"
So it is correct that at the front you want 0.1 inch toe-in.
or 2mm or 0.2 degree toe-in.
If the machine measures the front relative to toe-in then the numbers are positive. Look at the picture and you can see two little diagrams. For the rear the positive numbers mean toe-out and for the front the positive numbers mean toe-in.
Similar to the little picture next to the camber readings. It has negative numbers because the tires are closer together at the top than at the road contrary to the little picture
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I have'nt read through all the post's, but what size were your winter wheels? If you've gone to bigger wheels your car will handle worse. Especially if they are heavier.
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Not to steal the thread, but I recently got some new tires.
G-Force kdw's on the rear and when driving sometimes when driving the back end "wiggles" im not trying anything just driving normal.
Now this used to happen on my bike, people would say the rain grooves in the road would cause the tire to "tram" on the road. Wondering if these new tires would do the same.
G-Force kdw's on the rear and when driving sometimes when driving the back end "wiggles" im not trying anything just driving normal.
Now this used to happen on my bike, people would say the rain grooves in the road would cause the tire to "tram" on the road. Wondering if these new tires would do the same.
#31
the spacer is only a 1/4 in thick it will not throww off the ET enough for the steering to go "soft". the only thing he would feel from the spacer is a little sterring shake in braking........i'm in the wheel business
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