suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

Just noticed this the other day, but when I downshift pretty quickly from 6th to 5th, I get this initial grind going into 5th. I also felt it this morning going down from 4th to 3rd. Any idea what could cause that? (I'm a bit of noob when it comes to this). I have an 03 Touring with about 38k on the clock. I also have a gold 100k warranty....any thoughts? thanks --

harrieyu

iTrader: (4)

not pressing the clutch all the way? not rev matching (double clutching)?

tacomaboy

bad tranny. Does it consistently do this?

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

I definitely push the clutch in all the way......and it does happen pretty consistently. I tested it like 10x yesterday on the drive home...each time downshifting from 6th to 5th, it grinded (definitely like the sound when you mis-shift and the clutch isn't in all the way)....any idea of this could be under warranty? (I am out of the standard 36k window)

tacomaboy

Standard powertrain is 50k miles, not 36, so you are covered. Take it into the dealer. If they give yuo crap, take it to another dealer and give a bad review to the first one.

Mine got replaced right away when I took it in for grinding going into 6th. The dealer had seen it before and replaced it for me in 3 days time. Great service (wish they could have fixed the seat shifting though).

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

Yeh, just called Browns Nissan. Told me I'd have to agree to an $86 diagnostic fee for them to take a look at it....and if it's a warranty deal, it would be refunded. just would suck if I agree to that, then they give me crap and try to say it's not under warranty....we'll see I guess

tacomaboy

NO
DONT DO THAT.

Tell them it should not cost 86 dollars to take them for a quick drive and hear the grinding!!!

You have to watch these guys.... remember most of them are out to SCREW YOU.

Other dealers will do it without charging the B.S. 86 bucks. All they have to do is drive it, not connect it to a computer, test fluids, etc etc. Also, if he gives you some crap about hes never heard of it before, you KNOW he is lying.

I will bet you they will say its bad but not covered or some B.S. I have had that happened to me before, and trust me, its absolute misery, dont put yourself through that.

F'ing Howdy Honda told me I had to pay them 2000 bucks to repair my transmission because someone put the wrong fluid in. That was a flat out lie because I was the only one who had ever touched the motor, and the tranny bolt was never turned once, so no fluid could possibly have been added. But... they make more money if YOU pay than if the manufacturer pays.

Do NOT trust them.

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

hahhahaa.....that's awesome. good point, though. I'll test it again when I'm driving today and if it's still there (which it probably will be), I'll just do what you said and ask them to take spin for 15 minutes to see the problem. if the 'check engine' light was on and they did the diagnostic, then yeh, maybe the fee would be warranted. but this is pretty obvious.....awesome feedback

tacomaboy

Yes, exactly... much better plan.

Good luck too. Dont be disheartened if they replace the tranny. The new ones are supposed to be much much better.

HarvesterUT

iTrader: (10)

double clutching is bad for your clutch. just give it a slight tap on the gas to rev match if youre not in a hurry.

also...is the grinding something you hear or feel? my shifter has been notchy from day 1 in all gears even with clutch in. i wouldnt worry about it until it makes some nasty noise

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

I hear and feel (both) the grinding. And not sure what double-clutching and rev matching is

HarvesterUT

iTrader: (10)

when you downshift...especially in a sport car, in order to make the downshift smooth you must engage the clutch when the RPMs are where they should be in the lower gear. lets take a 4th-3rd downshift. i need to bump the RPMs up about 500 before engaging 3rd or my car will bog and its bad on your clutch plate (since its spinning slower than ot needs to). also it will be very bouncy.

you should depress clutch, shift fron 4th to N, then manually tap the gas so your RPMs go up a bit, then slide it in 3rd and release the clutch and slowly apply throttle. after practice you will be able to smoothly shift between gears (or even skip gears 6th-4th, etc). of course you might need to bump it more than 500rpms depending on gear. the lower the gear the slightly more you should bump it up.

just think of it as reverse up-shifting. when you up-shift your RPMs fall a bit to make it smooth, right? well dpwnshifting they need to go up!

tacomaboy

We are talking 6th to 5th here... this is hardly autocross style shifting.

harrieyu

iTrader: (4)

you can rev match with your clutch depressed? (all the way in) i thought that wore the clutch?

tacomaboy

if the clutch is depressed, there is no friction on it, and no wear can occur.

Rev matching when the clutch is depressed ensures that when you release the clutch, the flywheel will be spinning at the same rate as the clutch disk, and you will not get additional wear or any sudden decelleration.

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

this is all a very advanced shifting conversation for me didn't realize there was so much to it!

JThrilla

Yea, are you sure you're just not shifting too fast? If you quickly throw the car from 6th to 5th it's going to buck because 5th is moving too fast compared to the RPMs you had in 6th (the other guy explained it better).

The gear span on this car is so large that it's amazing how long you can keep the car in 6th. I don't usually downshift until I'm well below around 2000 rpms.

tacomaboy

It will buck, but it wont grind.

suprpwr

iTrader: (7)

yeh, I was definitely shifting down below 2 rpms (prolly just a lil north), and it definitely was grinding.