g35or350z

Pardon my newbie manual transmission ignorance. I have driven auto only and this was my first manual. In the auto, you could floor it while going above 25mph and the transmission would downshift to first gear and you would get this incredible rush of acceleration. All I wanted was this type of acceleration.

Boomer

I understand your wish to maximize your acceleration, but downshifting into 1st over 5-10mph is a good way to damage it. Please don't continue to do this, it makes me cringe every time I think of gear teeth being sheared off. In my opinion, the number one rule w/an MT is not to grind the gears, it causes premature wear at best and can ruin a transmission at worst.

I know some of the new owners of the 350Z are driving a manual for the first time and they will make mistakes, but some are much worse than others and downshifting into 1st at 15-20mph on a regular basis is one. g35or350z, this is a bad habit, stop at once. I am not picking on you, I am simply telling you and others, this is BAD for the transmission. You will wear out the synchros quickly if you grind 1st gear by shifting at too high a speed.

Remember, even pro drivers miss shifts and destroy transmissions. If you are traveling 15-20mph, floor it in second, not first, unless you are a Rally Driver, who has their trans re-built several times in a season of racing. Unlike an AT, the 6MT transmission doesn't have a failsafe to revert to if you make a mistake, you control it and forcing it into gear at too high a speed will come back to haunt you.

Boomer--end of sermon. Anyone care to add other constructive commentary? We all had to learn how to drive an MT, any key things to remember for our new to MTs members?

happypants

Boomer, when you replaced your stock tires with the Michelins, did you get 17's or 18's?

Boomer

I got 17"s in the stock sizes, I am keeping the stock rims. Unfortunately for some, the A/Ss aren't available in the stock sizes for the 18"s.

g35or350z

How bout downshifiting from 6th to 4th on the freeway? With rev matching. Why is 1st gear so bad to downshift into? Will that damage the transmission (downshifting from 6->4 or even 3->2)?

Boomer

Downshifting from 6th to 4th w/rev matching is fine so is 3rd to 2nd, or 4 to 3 or 5th to 3rd w/rev matching. Every gear except 1st is fine to downshift into w/rev matching. You want a technical explanation I can't give you, except 1st gear is very low on the Z and the lower the gear, the harder it is to rev match and the easier it is to damage when you insist on puting into 1st and the synchros resist!

When it grinds, don't do it! Do not force your MT into gear when it grinds, grinding is a warning sign you are harming the transmission. OK, I will try an explanation, I probably will get laughed at by the DIYers, and I hold you personally responsible for my feeble attempt. A manual transmission contains 4,5 or 6 gears of varying size w/1st gear being the largest because it has to be big to provide the push to get your car moving from rest. As you move through the gears they get smaller to allow more speed to send you down the road.

1st gear is very large relative to the other gears to overcome the inertia of your car at a dead stop. Because it is so large, it resists being forced to rev match at higher than walking speeds(I'm on shakey ground here). Have you looked at the ratios and speeds you are able to attain in each gear? I think the 6MT has a 32mph top speed in 1st, and you are trying to force it to engage at 2/3rds of its capacity when you can only get another 10-12mph out of it anyway!

Why bother, leave it in second, you'll go faster by not having to shift a split second later. You are slowing your acceleration, instead of maximizing it, by puting it in 1st gear at 15-20mph. YOU ARE SLOWER USING YOUR TECHNIQUE. End of post, end of talking out my A**, Trust me, you are slower and you are ruining your transmission's health.

Boomer--use it or lose it, I don't care. OK, guys and gals, now you can laugh.

gaseous

My Z is only 3 weeks old but I've had no problems, save that someone decided that they couldn't stand looking at an unblemished Z and thus put a dent in my front driver side wheel well. The dent looks like someone kicked my car.

And it being only 3 weeks old too. I was not a happy camper this weekend.

wolf6010

I appreciate the help and advice concerning driving a car with a MT.

I have one more question; what's the other little pedal for, the parking brake?

gaseous

There are 3 "workable" pedals. From left to right there's the clutch, break, and gas.

There is, on the far left side, what looks like a pedal but its just a dead pedal. You rest your left foot there if you want.

aelius

A bit of grease on the window, some seat belt rattle when it slips out of the clip. And I suppose that the emergency light would be better placed if it were on the console or dash, as would the 12-volt socket.

But these issues are insignificant: The 350Z is an AWESOME machine and life is richer for having driven it.

The Brickyard Rat

iTrader: (1)

Oh-Oh. What emergency light?

bhobson333

The Emergency flasher switch is on the center console where it is easily hit accidently, like with an elbow.

Shift_Speed

i've had condensation also in heavy rain... it went away now ... but don't know if it will return and also my alignment seems off... tendancy to go right... but all fixable and overall i love my SEX-Z BEAST!!!

Track

I noticed in some threads there were people having gear-shift rattle.

Is this no longer an issue?

jackwhale

6000+ miles and I have not experienced any of the problems which have been posted (except seat movement). I find the transmission to be smooth without any glitches. I agree that shifting into 1st rarely makes sense unless one plans to come to a complete stop. First gear also revs out so quickly that it doesn't make much sense to get down into first gear even in very tight corners.

It has taken me some time to get used to the rate of decreasing RPMs when I lift off the throttle. Previous cars (ie 510) with cable throttles seem to drop RPMs much faster. The 350 seems to maintain the higher RPMs for a couple of seconds before decreasing. This has made heel/toe and rev matching more difficult...with practice I'm sure I will come to prefer the Z to my old 510.

FYI: The 510 driven by my son at the Candlestick SCCA autocross last weekend was the fastest of all Datsuns/Nissans--including our beautiful 350s. Its just a matter of time however because the group of 5-6 who drive 350s is starting to figure out their cars.

10531178

The crummy suspension on this car is drving me nuts!

But I am determined to fix it.

Already replaced the tires. That helped some.

Now I am wondering whether it is possible to adjust the spring rates on the car, without replacing the shocks (or springs)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Boomer

There are several threads devoted to this problem. I suggest you do a search, read the posts, and see what you think. I am looking at replacing the Shocks or putting coilovers on to fix the ride. I'm talking about spending $600-2000 to fix a NEW suspension. I am considering both options and I am REALLY PISSED I HAVE to do this at all. I've already spent $1000 FOR NEW TIRES. You will find my nom de plume on several posts in the threads I have mentioned.

Boomer

jackwhale

To 10531178

try this post--https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=20403&goto=newpost

Dwnshift races a 350 out of Cincinatti. His web site is 350evo.com and he has developed suspension upgrades.

Might be helpful.

Inova

had my car for about 5 days with 160 miles. drove the first 2 days then i had to wait till insurance. so far the only problem i have is nothing mechanically wrong. there is a flimsy gas cap and also a small rattle on the driverside door when i turn up the stereo.... i also have some trouble getting into 1st sometimes, but it doesnt happen often. so far so good.

adrie_79

i love everything about the car... except for the rattling sound of the seatbelt.... it's really irritating when u r driving alone...