Hey, just wondering what I could do to fix this? Im looking for the cheapest way possible.

 

Don't you mean the car is running too rick/Sean? Sorry, can't help you

 

how do you know this, also do you mean your rich on the bottom and lean on the top or vis versa--explain
BTW 13:1 A/F is what your aiming for on a N/A but all cars change depending on the situtation

 

I have the same problem with my Z, the A/F's can reach as high as 14.3 ~ 14.7 on hot days (for mine at least).

I was told I can do the following:

1. Change plugs and gap them a little higher. I would think retarding the timing would slow down my Z, but.......... I haven't tried that route yet.

2. Send it to a stealership and hope they know how to adjust the A/F's or even do a reflash. To be honest, I don't think the service guy would know what the hell he is doing. Let alone I don't want to deal with BS that they tell me everything is normal (even when I have dyno charts that show my Z leans out too high). I'm stock (other than the brake lines). It's the winter time and its nice and cold, at least I don't have to worry till summer (my A/F's tend to be in the 13's in winter).

3. Live in a fantasy that my car runs normal.

 

breathing mods make you lean. try putting your stock cats back on.

 

Expensive, but you can piggy back your ecu or something along those lines... A tune may help

 

Install a piggyback ECU like Turbo XS UTEC, and get it tuned like you should have in the first place.

Ho do you know what the AFR is????? You don't have a wideband AF.

Did you dyno it?

Respect
JET

 

Are the cheaper piggyback ECU that'll work? Like the Greddy Emanage Ultimate is about half the price...can if do the same? Well for the past week or so the car has been running really slugish and and a couple of my friends said that with the mods and the fact that I havent tuned it the A/F could be the issue....for now I was going by that, but now I have this other issue that it seemd like the car stalled out on me at like 150mph (I have a thread up)...I mean, litteraly just turned off and came back on....so I don't know whether its the A/F or not.

 

One problem, the shop that I brought it too to get the test pipes installed had to cut the stock cats to get them off (I have no idea why, but at the time I really didn't think they would be necessary any longer)...so I don't have the stock cats.

 

Don't waste your money on a ECU reflash, go with the emanage, or UTEC and get something that you can tune, not just some one-time ECU flash guess work.


That's a good 500 + 900 dollars the cheapest way is an APEXI-SAFC.

 

jwt popcharger strikes again...common problem with those, especially when you pull it out of gear.
about your stock cats, those ******* are expensive, and i've never heard of them having to be sawed off, but if it required more labor, ching ching, let that cash register ring. could it be that your installer didn't know he could access the nuts from the top of the engine bay?

 

before spending $ on a piggyback, get a dyno to see if you need one.

 

okay i have to start somewhere on here ... i have seen in a few Z's the mass air makeing the car go lean/ rich.. more times then not a use of a non genuine nissan air filter causes this... i have seen dirt get past the aftermarket air filters causeing the alpha ( a/f ratio ) dip way lean..... the car has somehat of an adaptive learn strategy meaning if bases what it see off the incomeing air to add the appropiate fule and timeing.. so while this fing up mass air sensor the car starts to learn how to run more efficientely with this adquite information off the sensor..when the time comes to getting a new one u will need to get the self learning reprogramed or set back to 100% (14.7 a/f ratio) I havent tried unhooking the battery to see if you can get this because i always use the Consult II , but the next time i get one in i ll try that and let you know

 

wtf??

 

Do the other intakes have this problem? and for the installer, they probably didn't know that they could access the nuts from the top of the engine bay...they are a really good place and I know a ton of people who have done work there... I just don't know why they sawed it...oh well. But getting back to the issue, if the other intakes are causing that issue, then it may be cheaper for me just to get rid of the popcharger and go with a different intake.

 

someone in your other thread mentioned having the same problem with his hks short ram intake. you might want to call jwt, and find out what they have to say about it. this is a known problem. maybe they have found a fix.

 

cool...thanks alot

 

Cut them off? WTF? That is crap, they still have to undo the bolts to get pipes on. They would be buying me a new set.
My vehicle runs lean also. Around 14.5 or so. I am waiting on my UTEC piggyback to fix the problem. I am also putting on test pipes on saturday.

 

+1
that was just plain wrong. when you go to sell it, you'll need the stockers. they need to provide you new ones.

 

they probably welded off the stock bolts too, then welded the test pipe flanges to the headers and y-pipe. this is what you call a half-a$$ job, unless you planned on keeping those test pipes on forever. in which case I guess its ok since you def won't have any leaks given it was a good weld job. I'll be finding out if I'm lean soon as well.