Check out my disappointing dyno results :(
#1
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From: Overland Park, Kansas
Check out my disappointing dyno results :(
Here is my original dyno that I had done about 3 years ago with only a Nismo exhaust and grounding cables:
Here is one I just did today with the following mods:
Pop-Charger
Nismo Exhaust
Ultimate Racing High Flow Cats
Top Speed Headers
Nismo flywheel
UR Pulley
AAM Plenum Spacer
I'm really depressed that all of the stuff I've done has made the numbers only go up by a few... Something doesn't seem right. The guy said that the headers could be the reason it's low. I don't understand how that could be though.
Does this make any sense to you?
Thanks
Here is one I just did today with the following mods:
Pop-Charger
Nismo Exhaust
Ultimate Racing High Flow Cats
Top Speed Headers
Nismo flywheel
UR Pulley
AAM Plenum Spacer
I'm really depressed that all of the stuff I've done has made the numbers only go up by a few... Something doesn't seem right. The guy said that the headers could be the reason it's low. I don't understand how that could be though.
Does this make any sense to you?
Thanks
#2
Adding high-flow intake/exhaust doesn't get you the same pop it did 20/30/40 years ago. These engines today are designed differently. You can actually loose power. Enjoy the great sound/looks of your car...but that's about it.
#5
looking at those dyno runs I'm kinda surprised as well. Have you thought about adding some kind of engine management such as a UTEC or Emanage Ultimate? I think you might see better numbers with a good tune. I've seen people hit around 270-275 with those mods and some engine management.
#6
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From: Overland Park, Kansas
Originally Posted by nashjam
looking at those dyno runs I'm kinda surprised as well. Have you thought about adding some kind of engine management such as a UTEC or Emanage Ultimate? I think you might see better numbers with a good tune. I've seen people hit around 270-275 with those mods and some engine management.
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#10
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From: Overland Park, Kansas
Originally Posted by BobbyRitz
Were conditions different? Was the initial dyno done in cooler temp or was humidity different?
Are both dynos SAE corrected numbers?
Are both dynos SAE corrected numbers?
Originally Posted by BobbyRitz
Were conditions different? Was the initial dyno done in cooler temp or was humidity different?
Are both dynos SAE corrected numbers?
Are both dynos SAE corrected numbers?
#14
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From: Overland Park, Kansas
Originally Posted by BobbyRitz
When I dyno, it lists temp and humidity and sae correction factor.
Ask your tuner, he should be able to hook you up with specifics.
Ask your tuner, he should be able to hook you up with specifics.
*Edit* it says Correction Factor: SAE Smoothing: 3 <-- does this mean anything?
Last edited by koolzero; 03-11-2006 at 06:41 PM.
#15
#18
here's the explanation.....
Intake......does nothing. Can you really think of an intake design that is better than stock: straight tube, air source outside the engine bay, non heat conducting plastic tubing.
Normal variation: I have had many cars dyno'd. On the same day, in the same car, with all the same air temp, intake temp, humidity conditions, I have had as much as 15hp variation in the results between runs. That is the limit of accuracy on a dyno.
Was it a hub dyno or a wheel dyno? If a wheel dyno, did you use tires that were different? Even if the same tires, greater treadwear will lead to increased rolling resistance which will decrease you calculated power numbers.
What octane gasoline? Any less than 93 and you really aren't going to see the gains from these bolt-ons which are minimal to begin with.
In terms of additive power gains with a stock ECU, the following are realistic expectations with 93 octane fuel:
Intake = 0hp
Plenum = 2hp
headers = 8hp
cats = 4hp
exhaust = 6hp
.....or about 20 engine hp or about 16rwhp. Not too far off from what you got. Cams and ECU reflash could get you to about 35 engine hp
Normal variation: I have had many cars dyno'd. On the same day, in the same car, with all the same air temp, intake temp, humidity conditions, I have had as much as 15hp variation in the results between runs. That is the limit of accuracy on a dyno.
Was it a hub dyno or a wheel dyno? If a wheel dyno, did you use tires that were different? Even if the same tires, greater treadwear will lead to increased rolling resistance which will decrease you calculated power numbers.
What octane gasoline? Any less than 93 and you really aren't going to see the gains from these bolt-ons which are minimal to begin with.
In terms of additive power gains with a stock ECU, the following are realistic expectations with 93 octane fuel:
Intake = 0hp
Plenum = 2hp
headers = 8hp
cats = 4hp
exhaust = 6hp
.....or about 20 engine hp or about 16rwhp. Not too far off from what you got. Cams and ECU reflash could get you to about 35 engine hp
#20
MCRACING........the home of disappointing dynos
dont worry about it man, I honestly believe their dyno is screwy. When I had my spec-v i was somehow making 10hp less than my friends spec v, but I pulled on him like a bat out of hell
MCRACING = teh suxors
btw, i dynod 235whp stock, so be happy with 257
dont worry about it man, I honestly believe their dyno is screwy. When I had my spec-v i was somehow making 10hp less than my friends spec v, but I pulled on him like a bat out of hell
MCRACING = teh suxors
btw, i dynod 235whp stock, so be happy with 257