koolzero

iTrader: (14)

Here is my original dyno that I had done about 3 years ago with only a Nismo exhaust and grounding cables:


Here is one I just did today with the following mods:

Pop-Charger
Nismo Exhaust
Ultimate Racing High Flow Cats
Top Speed Headers
Nismo flywheel
UR Pulley
AAM Plenum Spacer



I'm really depressed that all of the stuff I've done has made the numbers only go up by a few... Something doesn't seem right. The guy said that the headers could be the reason it's low. I don't understand how that could be though.

Does this make any sense to you?


Thanks

Category5

Adding high-flow intake/exhaust doesn't get you the same pop it did 20/30/40 years ago. These engines today are designed differently. You can actually loose power. Enjoy the great sound/looks of your car...but that's about it.

thezedsled

iTrader: (1)

Was it the same dyno and operator?

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

your first dyno was amazingly good, maybe too good if you know what i mean. nismo exhaust breaths just a tiny bit better then the stockers. i see most people putting down 230ish stock.

nashjam

iTrader: (1)

looking at those dyno runs I'm kinda surprised as well. Have you thought about adding some kind of engine management such as a UTEC or Emanage Ultimate? I think you might see better numbers with a good tune. I've seen people hit around 270-275 with those mods and some engine management.

koolzero

iTrader: (14)

I did these tests on the same dyno as before, but it had upgraded software. I was considering going with the technosquare ECU anyone know if this would help things out?

steela2110

iTrader: (12)

There was something wrong with your first dyno... I do not believe it should have been that high in the first place

BobbyRitz

iTrader: (7)

Were conditions different? Was the initial dyno done in cooler temp or was humidity different?

Are both dynos SAE corrected numbers?

zmegoby

iTrader: (1)

I imagine that the CF was higher(maybe too high) on your first dyno run then your second. Compare them both uncorrected.

koolzero

iTrader: (14)

That I don't know how can I tell?

The dates for the first one is in August of 03, so definitely hotter and probably more humid.

BobbyRitz

iTrader: (7)

When I dyno, it lists temp and humidity and sae correction factor.

Ask your tuner, he should be able to hook you up with specifics.

southern_info

iTrader: (3)

Get rid of those high flow cats and get test pipes seriously.

koolzero

iTrader: (14)

I had test pipes and hated the way the sounded.

koolzero

iTrader: (14)

He told me with their new software it only prints out one page but I'll ask them if they have the correction.

*Edit* it says Correction Factor: SAE Smoothing: 3 <-- does this mean anything?

BobbyRitz

iTrader: (7)

http://www.moto-one.com.au/performan...onfactors.html

Hope this helps...

alex12

iTrader: (5)

Did you exclude non-performance mods such as wheels and brakes? More rotational mass usually means less hp

thawk408

iTrader: (16)

Then get resonated ones. Testpipes will give more power then highflows.

Speedracer

Intake......does nothing. Can you really think of an intake design that is better than stock: straight tube, air source outside the engine bay, non heat conducting plastic tubing.

Normal variation: I have had many cars dyno'd. On the same day, in the same car, with all the same air temp, intake temp, humidity conditions, I have had as much as 15hp variation in the results between runs. That is the limit of accuracy on a dyno.

Was it a hub dyno or a wheel dyno? If a wheel dyno, did you use tires that were different? Even if the same tires, greater treadwear will lead to increased rolling resistance which will decrease you calculated power numbers.

What octane gasoline? Any less than 93 and you really aren't going to see the gains from these bolt-ons which are minimal to begin with.

In terms of additive power gains with a stock ECU, the following are realistic expectations with 93 octane fuel:

Intake = 0hp
Plenum = 2hp
headers = 8hp
cats = 4hp
exhaust = 6hp

.....or about 20 engine hp or about 16rwhp. Not too far off from what you got. Cams and ECU reflash could get you to about 35 engine hp

Osix350Z

iTrader: (2)

get test pipes.. but its all about what you like, if you're willing to give up hp for sound then thats your thing.

A_16

MCRACING........the home of disappointing dynos


dont worry about it man, I honestly believe their dyno is screwy. When I had my spec-v i was somehow making 10hp less than my friends spec v, but I pulled on him like a bat out of hell

MCRACING = teh suxors

btw, i dynod 235whp stock, so be happy with 257