thats funny when taken out of context.

 

You're a sick person !

 

LOL at this thread

 

I have a contrary friend who insists that holding the clutch in is acceptable, despite all the expert advice that says that doing so wears the throwout bearing. The 350Z Owners Manual states clearly that you should put the tranny in neutral and release the clutch. My friend contends is that manufacturers know that people do this (hold the clutch) and have developed sturdier bearings to compensate. Fwiw, he got his information from an article about motorcycle clutches. I know nothing about motorcycle clutches, so I can't say if they are comparable to car clutches or not. I would think the forces acting on car clutches are *much* greater. Anyway, does anyone agree or disagree with my friend and why? Thx.

 

In this scenario, it is good advice to disengage the engine, whether by holding the clutch or shifting to neutral. This will prevent damage to your drivetrain. Also, when you see that you are about to be rear-ended, release the brake. This allows your car to move with the impact, absorbing some of the energy and hopefully reducing whiplash injury to you. After the impact, press the brake again to stop your car from moving. Naturally, you should have left room between you and the car ahead to allow for this contingency. If not, you will probably hit the car ahead of you. Even so, the person who hit you is responsible for both.

 

Holding the clutch in does not wear it out. I have had three cars with clutches. The first car had 110,000 miles original clutch. My current truck has 170,000 miles and original clutch. My Z only has 20,000 miles and I drive it just like the others. As long as the clutch in fully disengaged, no damage is done. If you are on a incline or a hill and you use the clutch half way in and a little gas to hold the car in the same spot and not use the brake, then you will really wear the clutch.

 

Are you kidding? Being sarcastic? please say yes.

 

he must be kidding...
when you are about to be rear ended, please accelerate quickly

 

That's true. You should release the brakes for the exact reason stated.

 

That makes 0 sense from a whiplash standpoint. Releasing the brakes will allow your car to accelerate more quickly from the impact, leading to more severe whiplash. Your car may end up in better shape, but your neck won't. Now, if you're going to get hit hard enough that that your car may crush you, then, yes, release the brake. Energy from the impact will be used to move your car forward instead of crushing you and your car.

 

By "fully disengaged"...do you guys mean clutch pedal all the way to the floor? When I shift, I rarely push it completly to the floor.

 

jeeper, I like your explanation better.

As a follow-up... you can put your head against the headrest to protect your neck and reduce whiplash. Some cars now offer active head restraints that move the headrest closer to your head in a rear collision to reduce the movement of your head wrt your body, in order to prevent or reduce whiplash injury.

 

You don't want to stay on the clutch any longer than you have too. If it's a short period of time it's ok. Think of it this way. The more you use it the sooner the mechanics will break. Just let it out when you are sitting in neutral at a light and then reengage it.

 

There is nothing wrong with holding in the clutch at a red light, but it does increase wear on the pressure plate.

 

it doesn't hurt the clutch plate....it hurts the clutch assembly...the bearings and springs especially

 

"Riding the clutch" refers to having your foot on the clutch while the car is in gear & moving (and your not changing gears). This should be avoided as it will cause wear on the clutch. (Though I do it sometimes when stopped facing uphill).

Sitting at a light with clutch pushed in will only cause some excess wear on the springs that move clutch in/out. Probably best not to but not a big deal.
If a short light I leave mine pushed in. If longer light I put car in neutral & release clutch.

 

Well you cleared that up, Brickyard, now how can we improve on the knotchiness of shifting from 1st to second.....I'm up to almost 7000 miles after almost a year of driving the car

 

This is true.
However i believe that people are referring to two different things in this thread.
1.) It WILL NOT damage your clutch to have it fully depressed for any amount of time, since there is no pressure on it from the pressure plate, it simply freewheels with the engine, completely separate from any other components in the transmission.
2.) It WILL put unnecessary wear on the throwout bearing. when the clutch is engaged (pedal on the floor) the throwout bearing rides on the pressure plate spring. if it is held for extended periods of time, it puts a large load on the bearing, and can cause premature wear and failure.

Hope that helps clear things up a little bit.

 

"...now how can we improve on the knotchiness of shifting from 1st to second....? "

Wish I knew on that one; 30,000 miles & I'm still not smooth all the time from 1st to 2nd.

 

Upgrade to JWT Clutch/Flywheel combo!
My JWT combo allows me easier shifting - I can shift much more smoothly.