uh 350Z rotary?
05-24-2006, 11:50 AM
#3
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20b is a very reliable engine for a rotary. Also it sound amazing. Though it can cost 9-12k to get a 20b setup for an FD(turbo, I would never think about it for a 350z. Theres too many engines that are cheaper and easier. You might as well fully build a VQ and get a TT kit, Axels/LSD, tranny upgrade and you're at the same with a better setup. Apex and coolant seals will kill your budget. Rebuilds...
05-24-2006, 12:23 PM
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I think it's pretty cool. I mean I wouldn't do it, but it's definitely different. Those motors can make crazy power. It must really mess up the weight distribution f/r though. Rotaries don't weigh very much.
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05-24-2006, 06:35 PM
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I almost bought an FD before the Z, and this motor in an FD costs in the upwards of 15-20k installed, it takes some serious customization, I read about one guy who spent over 35K on his install with wheels included. Those motors are extremely rare, here in the states atleast.
The wankel is not a reliable motor at all, its designed to burn oil, if you run the wrong type of fuel it has been known to blow up, they are always overheating, motors last 90k max with no mods (yes many last more im talking majority).
I dont even really find this swap cool, I think its stupid and pointless, would have done an rb26dett, or 2jzgte swap instead. But hey if you got an extra 30k lyin around burning a hole in your bank account to each his own.
The wankel is not a reliable motor at all, its designed to burn oil, if you run the wrong type of fuel it has been known to blow up, they are always overheating, motors last 90k max with no mods (yes many last more im talking majority).
I dont even really find this swap cool, I think its stupid and pointless, would have done an rb26dett, or 2jzgte swap instead. But hey if you got an extra 30k lyin around burning a hole in your bank account to each his own.
05-25-2006, 04:06 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by gNaRKiLL
I almost bought an FD before the Z, and this motor in an FD costs in the upwards of 15-20k installed, it takes some serious customization, I read about one guy who spent over 35K on his install with wheels included. Those motors are extremely rare, here in the states atleast.
The wankel is not a reliable motor at all, its designed to burn oil, if you run the wrong type of fuel it has been known to blow up, they are always overheating, motors last 90k max with no mods (yes many last more im talking majority).
I dont even really find this swap cool, I think its stupid and pointless, would have done an rb26dett, or 2jzgte swap instead. But hey if you got an extra 30k lyin around burning a hole in your bank account to each his own.
The wankel is not a reliable motor at all, its designed to burn oil, if you run the wrong type of fuel it has been known to blow up, they are always overheating, motors last 90k max with no mods (yes many last more im talking majority).
I dont even really find this swap cool, I think its stupid and pointless, would have done an rb26dett, or 2jzgte swap instead. But hey if you got an extra 30k lyin around burning a hole in your bank account to each his own.
I'm going to politely disagree on the reliability of Rotaries. My 85' GSL turned 250K on complete stock components, before I decided to open it with intake and exaust, then it screamed even more, and I sold it.
The issue with the 93'-95' RX-7 is poor support hardware. Mazda ingeniously decided to up the performance / boost pressure of the 13B w/o upgrading the APEXi seals and hoses. The same would happen to a high compression piston engine if the head seals were not upgraded.
Simply put the FD suffered from rubber hoses instead of silicone hoses. Then to top that, it is an engine that is exotic. The Rotary creates about 400+ degree of heat. The engine needs trained care, not you average neglect.
Yes they do burn oil, and the engine was designed to be placed in small aircraft. A properly lubricated rotary will spin happily for 300K+mi.
If the FDs were built with 3mm APexi seals, and full silicone hoses and a little more fuel pressure. There would be no problem.
I'm saying if MAZDA actually added another $500 - $600 in parts, they might still be producing RX-7s today.
05-25-2006, 09:38 AM
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Are you seriously referring to the apex seals in a rotary motor as APEXi seals?
Originally Posted by RadioManJ350Z33
I'm going to politely disagree on the reliability of Rotaries. My 85' GSL turned 250K on complete stock components, before I decided to open it with intake and exaust, then it screamed even more, and I sold it.
The issue with the 93'-95' RX-7 is poor support hardware. Mazda ingeniously decided to up the performance / boost pressure of the 13B w/o upgrading the APEXi seals and hoses. The same would happen to a high compression piston engine if the head seals were not upgraded.
Simply put the FD suffered from rubber hoses instead of silicone hoses. Then to top that, it is an engine that is exotic. The Rotary creates about 400+ degree of heat. The engine needs trained care, not you average neglect.
Yes they do burn oil, and the engine was designed to be placed in small aircraft. A properly lubricated rotary will spin happily for 300K+mi.
If the FDs were built with 3mm APexi seals, and full silicone hoses and a little more fuel pressure. There would be no problem.
I'm saying if MAZDA actually added another $500 - $600 in parts, they might still be producing RX-7s today.
The issue with the 93'-95' RX-7 is poor support hardware. Mazda ingeniously decided to up the performance / boost pressure of the 13B w/o upgrading the APEXi seals and hoses. The same would happen to a high compression piston engine if the head seals were not upgraded.
Simply put the FD suffered from rubber hoses instead of silicone hoses. Then to top that, it is an engine that is exotic. The Rotary creates about 400+ degree of heat. The engine needs trained care, not you average neglect.
Yes they do burn oil, and the engine was designed to be placed in small aircraft. A properly lubricated rotary will spin happily for 300K+mi.
If the FDs were built with 3mm APexi seals, and full silicone hoses and a little more fuel pressure. There would be no problem.
I'm saying if MAZDA actually added another $500 - $600 in parts, they might still be producing RX-7s today.
02-17-2021, 10:35 AM
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Hey so i actually want to do a 20b 3 rotor 350z build. If yall could help me find where i can buy a 20b rotor i want to get alot of hp out of this car. i was thinking abt making it a bugatti killer.
Its been my dream car for years.
Its been my dream car for years.
02-17-2021, 02:30 PM
#19
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Light weight + rotary is the way to go. Like an FD or my test bed Datsun roadster in the mid-80s. 12A rotary for fit and mount fab. (Sadly, never got a chance to build the “actual”..... with built 13B. Sold that engine for pennies on the dollar. Still upset with ex-wife. 😆
02-18-2021, 02:13 PM
#20
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Dream car or not, use a car that isn’t a boat anchor. Rotaries make a lot of revs, not a lot of low end torque.... which the Bugatti will eat alive while you’re spooling up.
Light weight + rotary is the way to go. Like an FD or my test bed Datsun roadster in the mid-80s. 12A rotary for fit and mount fab. (Sadly, never got a chance to build the “actual”..... with built 13B. Sold that engine for pennies on the dollar. Still upset with ex-wife. 😆
Light weight + rotary is the way to go. Like an FD or my test bed Datsun roadster in the mid-80s. 12A rotary for fit and mount fab. (Sadly, never got a chance to build the “actual”..... with built 13B. Sold that engine for pennies on the dollar. Still upset with ex-wife. 😆